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  • Turkish Culture I: Biscolata Boys

    In Canada, when I tell people about my trips to Turkey, I’m frequently bombarded by comments like these:

    “Oh, the boys must be so good-looking there! Like in Spain!”

    “Oh my gosh, I went to Turkey, and the men there – mmmpf. It was hard to come back.”

    “Go on lots of dates. You can’t have too many Mediterranean men in the world!”

    “Sooo….? How was it….?”

    It typically comes as a surprise to Canadian women to learn that, at least in my experience, Turkish women do not gaze at Turkish men in the same lecherous way that we are wont to do. Indeed, the ones I know profess rather disparaging opinions towards the looks of the men around them. In the Turkish female mind, the main marks against Turkish men seem to be that they are short, bald, and jealous. (For the record, this disparaging attitude appears to go both ways, but that is a whole nother post.)

    As near as I can tell, this attitude is unique to Turkish women. Canadian women don’t think like this, and I have it on good authority that Iranian women (who likely have more real exposure to Turkish men than us Canadians) also think the men here are pretty hot stuff. As for me, I can only say that there is a great deal of variance, like anywhere.

    Still, I had to laugh when a friend showed me these commercials for a type of cookie called Biscolata.



    As you can see, the videos is basically a series of hot men from Mediterranean countries outside of Turkey promoting biscolata cookies. The commercials were hugely popular in Turkey, and many a Biscolata cookie has been sold using this the-grass-is-more-delicious-and-chocolatey-when-it-speaks-a-romance-language technique.

    If you don’t believe me already, YouTube has also produced a “Turkish biskolata” parody video, in which a short, balding Turkish man preens himself in a tree. And since parodies are usually funny because they reflect a cultural expectation, I fear it is the unfortunate lot of Turkish men to work extra hard to, uh, sell their cookies on the domestic market.

  • Turkish Language I: Balık etli

    As this is my second time spending a significant amount of time in Turkey, I am learning more and more to what point it is important to understand local languages in order to understand cultures. Sometimes the rapport that certain expressions have with a culture is easy to understand.

    Sometimes, however, I am left scratching my head. What?

    Take, for example, my favourite Turkish term: balık etli. This is an adjective that means, literally, ‘with the meat of a fish,’ but it is actually a euphemism for ‘fat.’ That’s right, a euphemism. While a polite person in Canada may call a fat woman ‘bigger,’ ‘full-figured,’ ‘a bit chubby maybe,’ ‘curvy,’ or ‘thick,’ in Turkish, she is basically ‘like a fish.’

    Really?

    Really?

    To add to this, it is not only an expression that men use to refer to women, but one that women use to refer to themselves. For example, if a woman weighs a few more pounds than she’d like, but isn’t ready to own her fatness, she can say ‘I’m not fat. I’m like a fish!’

    Whatever makes you feel sexy baby!

    To be honest, I cannot really fathom how this could possibly make any woman feel better about her body. The best equivalent in English I can come up with is, “I’ve got a little meat on my bones,” but at least this isn’t linked to one particular animal, especially not one as unattractive as a fish.

    The other thing that I think is really funny about this term is how difficult it is to translate into English. Here’s the thing: this term is polite, it is only used to refer to women, it is not particularly sexualized, it’s a euphemism, it doesn’t mean a very fat body type (google yields pictures of women that I would describe as ‘chubby.’)

    So, ‘chubby’ doesn’t work super well, since it’s not polite enough, unless you qualify it with ‘a bit.’ Fat, of course, is out. ‘Thick’ is too sexualized. ‘Full-figured’ might be too euphemistic and plus-sized is typically used when talking about clothing. ‘Curvy’ is losing its value as a euphemism for fat as women who are curvy (in all sizes) continue to maintain that being curvy involves having a small waist and big bust and/or hips. ‘Plump’ is a word that isn’t used much these days, and if it is used it rarely describes young women. Not to mention than every translation totally loses the fishy connotations!

    Oh well. I don’t know that I’ve learned something very valuable about Turkish culture, but at least when I speak Turkish I don’t have to try to fit this fish-shaped peg into any other kind of hole.

    photo by:
  • Heartwarming Conversations: Fernande and La Belle Vieillesse

    The morning I was supposed to fly to Turkey, I went on the Lufthansa website to check-in only to learn that Lufthansa pilots had decided to strike that morning. Long story short, I ended up flying a different airline.

    For me it was the stroke of luck in the guise of a bitter labour dispute, because if it hadn’t been for the strike and the rebooking, I never would have met Fernande.

    Fernande et la belle vieillesse

    This is Fernande. Fernande is 80 years old. She has been travelling since her early 20s, and as she never married she was able to go on, “an average of one or two trips per year.” Since her retirement from her career as a nurse, she has kept at it and as the health of her former regular travelling companions has diminished, she has found new, younger ones.

    Fernande was proud of her age and good health, and still had all her marbles. She was also conscious of her own mortality, but rather than depress her, it only seemed to motivate her to be thankful for what she had and to take full advantage of the life she has left.

    Here are a few highlights from our conversation.

    “I bought this nice watch, because I figured hey, it might be my last.”

    “I really have to thank God for my good health at this age. I’ve been travelling since I was a young woman and I’m so happy to still be able to do it.”

    “Sometimes I see women my age wearing so much ridiculous makeup. Me, I don’t wear anything. Sometimes I want to tell them, “It doesn’t actually improve your looks! Why waste your time!”

    “I really have to thank God that I have such a great life. I have great friends and a great family.”

    “It costs nothing to say nice things to people.”

    “In many ways, we make our own life with our attitude.”

    “I really have to thank God that there is such beautiful nature in the world for us to look at.”

    “Have you ever been to French Polynesia? You should go, it’s beautiful.”

    But the main point that I will remember about our conversation was when, midway through the flight she told me,

    “You’re a nice girl. Je te souhaite une belle vieillesse comme la mienne.” (I hope you have an old-age as great as mine.)

    I was so moved that I started to cry and had to explain that it was the sentiment, and not the prospect of old-age, that was making me teary.

    To anybody who reads this I extend the blessing. May you too be happy with what and where your life has brought you even up to the very end of your days.

  • Culture Shock in Turkey II: Turkish Hospitality

    The ubiquitous Turkish tea glassOne of the most central societal values and structures in Turkey is the notion of hospitality. In a society that loves flouting the rules, one unwritten rule cannot be disobeyed: you must treat your guests well. Turkish people consider themselves very hospitable, and even if an Turkish person is less than talented in the art of receiving guests, he or she will still claim hospitality because being inhospitable is culturally shameful.

    I have had the privilege to meet some truly hospitable people in Turkey. One woman in Küçükküyü who fed me dinner and called me “cool” without even knowing me. My friend Tutku, and her family. The many people who have given me directions and told me where to get off transit. My friend Alper is almost comically hospitable. Before we had even met, within the first 30 seconds of our first phone conversation, he said “You’re new in Turkey. Is there anything you need?” Out to dinner, “Are you cold? Do you want me to ask them if they have a blanket?” as well as “Are you sure you’re okay sitting there? You could sit here and see the sea.” I brushed my bangs out of my eyes “I can ask if they have an elastic if you want.?” Leaving my job “You can always stay here.”

    I have always been extremely clear about not being up for sex or a relationship, and he was initially planning to leave the area for a job. Normally I couldn’t help but explain that kind of behaviour through the lens of sex and courtship (is that bad?), but I think he might just be like that.

    Turkish hospitality can get awkward for those of us from, erm, more inhospitable cultures. One reason, of course, is that we are not used to politely accepting gifts. Another reason is that it is hard to gauge what people want from you when they are all claiming hospitality – and in Turkey, many people are genuinely hospitable, while others are acceptably hospitable and others straight-up inhospitable. The common thread between all three groups is that they all made claims about being hospitable. This can get uncomfortable and overwhelming.

    After the fifth cup of tea

    Turkish person: “Do you want tea?”

    Me: “Oh yeah, I’m getting up anyway, so I’ll get it this time.”

    Turkish person: “Nonono. Turkish hospitality.”

    On entering someone’s home or business

    Turkish person: Do you want some tea?

    Me: No thank you, I’m in a hurry.

    Turkish person: I can’t not offer you teaaaaaaa. That would *destroy* my identity as a Turkish person! Turkish hospitality!

    At basically any meal eaten with Turkish people

    Turkish person: Eat more. Do you want this thing? What about this thing? What about this thing?

    Me: No thank you. I’m full.

    Turkish person: You have to eat! You are so skinny! Turkish hospitality!

    Uttered after I unsuccessfully attempted to pay for my drinks

    Turkish person: Refusal is not easy in Turkey. You have to be very firm, or you will end up saying yes to a marriage proposal or something. Gets the cheque.

    Staying over at somebody’s house

    Turkish person: Are you sure you don’t need anything else?

    Me: Yep. I’m sure. Thanks a lot.

    Turkish person: Really, are you sure? Are you sure you don’t want to shower?

    Me: That’s the third time he’s asked me that. Do I smell bad?

    Me: No no, I’m fine. If I want something, I’ll do it or ask you about it. Don’t worry about me.

    Turkish person: Turkish hospitality!

    In some of these cases, they really were being hospitable, and the awkwardness resulted mostly from the fact that I suck at accepting gifts with grace and dignity. On the other hand, sometimes “Turkish hospitality” can be more about the Turkish than about the hospitality. Like in every country, hospitality and manipulation coexist in the same space.

    All that said, it was pleasing to live in a place where hospitality is a strong cultural imperative. For every person that’s doing it wrong, I’ve met a few that are doing it right, and these people have inspired me to hopefully be a bit more hospitable now that I’ve made my retour à Montréal.

    So don’t hesitate. Invite yourself over to my apartment. Don’t even think about getting up to get yourself some tea in my home. Do you want tea? Do you want to take a shower? Do you want tea? Do you want coffee? I’ll bring you some tea. How about a beer? Coffee? How about some tea? Is there anything else you need? Shower? Tea? Of course, you can stay the night. Here’s one more glass of tea. Ok, I’m making you breakfast. Do you want eggs? With sausage? Shower with your eggs? Here’s some tea to tide you over. Yes yes, you can take it in the shower. I’ll have another cup waiting for you when you get out.

    Try not to get uncomfortable. I can’t help it. Turkish hospitality!

    photo by:
  • This Girl Got Bed Bugs in Montreal. Here’s How

    I chose the least gross picture I could find.

    After three months of living in a developing country, host to many creepy crawlies including cockroaches as big as my thumb, spiders as bit as a tea saucer, and the biggest grasshopper I have ever seen in my life I have arrived home in Canada, to our predictable, boring, and decidedly safe country. The day after I arrived home, I gazed happily at the clean streets and grey skies, as the cold 21 degree air raised delicious goosebumps on my skin. Inhaling a deep breath of the non-cigarette scented air, I thought “Man, am I ever glad to be home!”

    IMG_20140826_113843907

    A bad picture of the HUGE grasshopper. That is my finger for scale.

    Project number 1 was to find a place to live. This I did in two days. Having just come back from Turkey, which is cockroach central, I was very extremely careful about checking for pests, and probably asked the super about it five times. I also called the neighbours to confirm. The place was clean. Hurrah!

    My roommate, Baptiste, and I then had to furnish the place. Step 1 was beds. Passing a mattress lying out by the side of the road, Baptiste made as if to take it.

    “No Baptiste,” I said. “There be bed bugs in these streets, and they are scarier than the Hells Angels, the Charter of Secularism, and all the people convicted in the Charbonneau Commission combined. They will cause you physical harm, make you feel like you don’t belong in a place, and take your money all in one fell swoop. Let’s please not take that chance.”

    Baptiste thought that only a jerk would leave out a perfectly good-looking mattress without cutting it up if it were infested with bed bugs, but I was adamant. No roommate of mine was going to bring pests into our happy domicile. Plus, I wasn’t entirely sure that a person dealing with bed bugs would be clearheaded enough to advertise that a mattress was infested when they put it out by the curb.

    Since garbage picking for beds wasn’t an option for me (though *ahem* some other furniture may have been sourced that way), I found two beds and mattresses on Kijiji and got the guy to drive them over for me. Baptiste and he hauled the frames and mattresses up the stairs, and they ended up leaning against the wall until we got around to putting them up.

    When I took the mattress off the wall to sleep on it, I noticed something curious. A little bug, placidly climbing up the wall. Stolidly – almost stoically. He didn’t have any wings, so there was no way he could attain the heights he clearly hoped for without walking. He was the veritable Lillian Alling of bugs.

    “Lillian Alling” was little and brown and very scary, so I screamed. Then I realized how little he actually was and got a hold of myself, got rid of it, and didn’t think much of it . . .

    . . . until the next day. Baptiste and I finally got around to putting the frames together, and I noticed little black spots on mine. Suddenly, another scary brown bug darted out of one of the joints. He met his death by “end of a pen,” as I inadvertently smeared him all over the place.

    I still didn’t think anything of it, but I was paranoid about having pests so just out of curiosity the next time I was hooked up the internet I looked up what bed bugs looked like . . . you know, just in case I ever had to deal with them.

    I think you can probably see where this is going.

    Turns out that little black spots on your furniture are bed bug poop, which is actually digested human blood. That smear sustained at my hand – er, pen – was probably half digested blood.

    I should have known something was up when the first part of the name of the guy I bought the beds from was “Thug.” Won’t be making that mistake again.

    The rest of the story is that we had to deal with them fast, so I called the super.

    “Uh, hi? Yeah, so remember how I made such a big deal out of the apartment not having pests? And how I promised I would be a really good tenant. Yeah, well, I mean, this is really embarrassing, and I know we only signed the lease two days ago, but I found a bed bug!!!!!!!! And it’s all my fault because I brought them in. Please help!”

    I was hoping that the super would say something like, “Oh, well, I’m sorry to hear that Kate, but it happens. Just let me wave my magic wand and the exterminator will be there in two minutes. We have a protocol for this because it’s just so common and anybody could be affected. In fact, bed bugs are like STIs – no matter whose bed you end up in, it could happen to you. Even just one time! They might not even know they’re infected! It’s totally not your fault.”

    He actually said, “Oh. Let me call the landlord. Are you sure it was a bed bug?”

    I said, “Yes. I’m dead sure.”

    “Well, we’ve never had these before, so I don’t know what to tell you. Except don’t take anything out of the apartment because you don’t want to scatter them in the hallways and infect other units.”

    Having already brought the beds all the way up the stairs (we live on the top floor) I gulped inwardly.

    “I’m very very sorry,” I said, overwhelmed by a wave of embarrassment.

    To be continued…

    In the meantime, here are some facts from the infinitely reliable sources of the internet and my own experience.

    Only 70% of people react to bed bug bites.

    It is best not to get bed bugs on a long weekend, because you have to wait that much longer for extermination.

    photo by:
  • Turkish Travel Tips II: Speaking Bad German in Turkey is Better than Speaking Bad Turkish

    german flagOne thing that I learned in Turkey is that speaking German in Turkey might actually be more useful than speaking Turkish.

    Although I tried my very best to pass as Turkish, something about my ginger hair, milky white skin, and battered green backpack seemed to alert people to the fact that I am not from their country.

    This was not usually a problem, except when it came to communication. For some reason, even though my Turkish is about 1000 times better than my German, people assume that because I am from the West, German would naturally make more sense as a communicative tool. In fact, at least once a week somebody refused to accept that I don’t speak German and doggedly continued telling me their life story as I gazed uncomprehendingly at their face and make small noises of protestation in Turkish or English.

    When I tried to buy a bus ticket:

    Me: Bilet Izmir’e almak istiyorum. I would like to buy a ticket to Izmir.

    Ticket Agent: Ah, maalesef Almanca bilmiyorum. Ah, Unfortunately, I don’t speak German. Here is my colleague, the handsome and multilingual Berk.

    Berk: Hallo. Ich spreche Deutsch. Sprechst du Deutsch? Ich liebe Deutsch sprechen! Hi. I speak German. Do you speak German? I LOVE speaking German!

    Me: Errr, etwas. Nein. Hayir. Almanca bilmiyorum. Türkcem Almancam’dan çok daha iyi. Izmir’e gidiyorum. Biletler var mɪ? Er, a bit? No. No. I don’t speak German. My Turkish is much better than my German. I’m going to Izmir. Do you have tickets?

    Berk: Ich wohne in Berlin, aber meine Familie wohne in Kuşadasɪ. Einkaufen. Rauchen. Apfel. Flughaven. I live in Berlin, but my family lives in Kuşadasɪ . . . he continues in German as I stare at his face blankly.

    Me: Almancam yok. İngilizce konuşabilirim. Ne zaman otobus Izmir’e gidiyor? Lütfen, bilet alabilir miyim? I have no German. I speak English. When does the bus to Izmir go? Please, can I buy a ticket?

    Berk: Fünf Uhr. Ich habe ein Haus in Munich. Schwester. Lederhosen. Tankwart. Five o’clock. I have a house in Munich . . . and so on in German.

    Me: İngilizce biliyorum. Fransizce biliyorum. Turkçe az biliyorum. Almanca yok yok YOK. I speak English. I speak French. I speak some Turkish. I have NO German WHATsoever.

    Berk: Hands me ticket.

    Me: Sağ olun. Çok teşekkürler. Iyi günler. Thanks. Thanks very much. Have a nice day!

    Berk: Kein Problem!

    When the internet stops working in my coffee shop 

    Me: Çok pardon. Internet yok. Internet çalɪşmɪyor. Excuse me! I’m very sorry! There’s no internet. The internet’s not working.

    Barista: İngilizce bilmiyorum. I don’t speak English.

    Me: Not a problem, because I am speaking to you in Turkish! And for the love of all that is good, I know my accent’s not that bad.

    Barista: Bakar mɪsɪnɪz! İngilizce, Almanca biliyor musunuz? Excuse me! Does anybody in the café speak English or German?

    Person in the café: Hallo. Ich spreche Deutsch! Ich liebe Deutsch sprechen! Die Toilette suchen Sie? Well hello! I speak German! I LOVE speaking German! Are you looking for the washrooms?

    Me: Nein. Tuvaletinizi istemiyorum. Internet çalɪşmɪyor. Anladɪnɪz mɪ? No. I don’t want the washroom.The internet isn’t working. Do you understand?

    Person in the café: Die Toilette ist nach oben. The toilet is upstairs.

    photo by:
  • Turkish Travel Tips: Public Transport and the Humble Dolmuş

    The humble minibus, or dolmuş (dol-MOOSH), as it is known in Turkish is, for most tourists to Turkey, a gem hiding in plain sight.

    This is a dolmuş. They always have their destinations written on the front, but if you're going somewhere in between, just ask the driver.

    This is a dolmuş. They always have their destinations written on the front, but if you’re going somewhere in between, just ask the driver.

    If somebody put a gun to my head and said, “you have two minutes to give people one piece of advice for travelling to Turkey!”, I would tell them how to use a dolmuş.

    Public transit in Turkey is inexpensive and effective, at least compared to most cities in Canada. The country is fairly densely populated, and many people do not make enough money to own cars. Most tourists will be familiar with much of Turkey’s public transport equipment: taxis, buses, intercity buses, airplanes, subways, and even trams function the same way as they do in Western countries.

    But the dolmuş. Ah, the dolmuş. Ignored by the average tourist to Turkey who simply has no idea what on earth those things are, and how one might go about using them. Maligned by . . . nobody really because nobody knows what they are. Spit on by . . . ok, never mind.

    I had to do something about this lack of dolmuş-education, so without further ado, here is a crash course on dolmuş travel.

    A dolmuş is a large van that goes from one place to another on a set route. Depending on the destination, they may go as frequently as every ten minutes, or as infrequently as once per hour. They may start early in the morning, and end late at night, or they may just operate during the daytime.

    To get one, go to your nearest bus or dolmuş station, and look at the destinations listed on the fronts. You can also hail a passing dolmuş by flailing your hands in the air and trying to get the attention of the driver. The way most Turkish people do it is by raising their right arm in a Sex and the City style taxi hailing motion. Yelling “dolmuş!” and tottering around on stilettos is optional.

    This is the dolmuş station at Fahrettin Altay in Izmir. At some stations, including this one, the destinations are printed on signs, but usually you have to ask.

    This is the dolmuş terminal at Fahrettin Altay in Izmir. At some stations, including this one, the destinations are printed on signs, but usually you have to ask.

    When you hail a dolmuş, it will stop and the driver will open the doors. If he passes you and isn’t going too fast, yell. “Şoför bey! Durunuz!” (Chauffeur bay! Dur-oo-nooz.) Mr. Driver, stop! It doesn’t always work, but usually the other passengers or other people on the street will see you and alert the driver.

    The next step is to make sure the dolmuş is going to your destination. Do this by saying the name of the place you’re going. You can get fancier, but if you’re just a tourist, they’ll understand. If the driver says “Hah,” or “Evet,” you’re good to go. If he tuts or says “Hayir,” or “Yok,” then you’ve got the wrong one.

    After you’ve made sure that the dolmuş is going to your destination, you can hop into the typically body-odour scented interior. Often the doors will stay open as you speed along the highway, having hopefully settled yourself into a chair, though if it is already full by the time it picks you up, you’re going to have to stand. Try to hold on so you don’t fall out. You’ll look very cool. Like a local!

    After you get on, have a glance at the fare chart, and give some money at the driver. Even if he is driving, he will accept it and give you the right amount of change. If you cannot get to the front, just pass the money to the person in front of you, and he or she will pass it to the driver. Make sure you say your destination, otherwise the driver will say something to you in Turkish that you probably won’t understand, but which in all likelihood means “How many, and where are you going?”

    Then you can say, for example, “bir, otogara gidiyorum.” One. I’m going to the bus station. Cross your fingers that he hasn’t actually said, “I’m driving a one way route to the hairiest part of Satan’s ass-crack. Welcome aboard!”

    I have heard tell that, technically, dolmuşes are not supposed to carry more passengers than they have seats. I have never seen this enforced, but apparently in certain parts of cities, cops lurk in wait of dolmuş drivers who let this happen as though the arm of the law means nothing to them. When this happens, the driver will tell all the passengers to duck. Everybody who’s standing has to duck lower than the windows until the danger is past. If you notice others ducking don’t hesitate – duck with them! Don’t worry. You’re only disobeying the law, and in Turkey, nobody cares.

    Dolmuşes make it easy to go anywhere in Turkey more quickly than if you rely solely on inter-city bus travel, and are easy to use. Despite the body odour, it’s a treat to have access to effective public transport. Unfortunately, it’s not always possible to check for dolmuşes online, so if you are going anywhere a bit off the beaten track in Turkey, and you suspect it is only serviced by dolmuş from where you are, I would suggest consulting a Turkish person who lives in that area. If you’re worried about finding somebody who speaks English, ask at a hotel.

    Bang. You just saved yourself money you could have spent on a taxi, and you managed to experience Turkey like a local for one whole ride.

  • Culture Shock in Turkey: Seat Belts, Safety, and the Veil

    When I arrived in Izmir to meet the family I would be au pairing with, I saw Sermin* waiting at the terminal for me with her oldest son Adem. They didn’t see me come out of the terminal, so I said her name from behind her. She jumped, then asked if I’d been waiting long.

    Well, no. You probably would have seen me if I had.

    Walking out of the terminal, we performed all the usual pleasantries that accompany the greeting of someone who has been on a long trip. How was the flight? Good. Are you tired? Not so bad. Did you have any delays? No.

    We got in the car, and I got my first taste of culture shock in Turkey. For in this fine country, back seat passengers almost never wear seatbelts, and that includes children. In fact, since back seat passengers are more often children, it is especially the young uns who are at a risk of … you know … whiplash, concussions, instant death, and other fun stuff.

    Now if this were the end of it, it would not be a very good story. “Whatever,” you are probably saying, if you were born before 1975. “We didn’t wear seat belts when we were growing up, and we were fine. Ok, it’s better if you do, of course. But really, the only reason we ever do it is because there’s a law, and we’re from the West, so we follow the rules because that’s just what we do.

    “What the hell?” you are probably saying if you were born after 1975. “She really deserves the bad mother of the year award. I definitely wouldn’t let my kids play at her house. But you’ve got to stop making such a big deal about this. I mean, Turkey is a developing country. It’s in the Middle East. You should expect things like that.”

    I wish that were the end of it. Unfortunately, the excitement of having somebody new to show off to put Adem into overdrive, and before we knew it, he was using the backseat as a platform for his feet as he stuck his head out of the sunroof to taste the fresh air. His hair whipping around in the wind, his mouth open, he resembled a happy dog on the back roads of rural Canada riding in the back of a pickup and delighting in the feeling of fresh air on his taste buds. I briefly considered if I could teach him to say “I just laaahve the feeling of fresh air on my cilia,” in English, or if that would be a bit much to start with.

    The next day, we drove somewhere else, this time with the two oldest children in the car. As we sped down the highway at 130 km/h, the two boys rolled around in the backseat, trying to wrestle each other into being as far away from each other as possible.

    Counterproductive, I know. But nothing I did seemed to get this across.

    After that ride, I started sitting in the backseat of the car as well, and would just buckle their seat belts. This did not work well. The younger in particular once wrestled me for a full 30 minutes while he screamed his head off. His parents tried explaining to him calmly that this was the way it was with me, and they were going to call the police if he didn’t wear it. Alas, this approach was ineffective.

    At the end of this ordeal, we were a sweaty, unhappy mess, and I didn’t look forward to more performances of the kind.

    And there weren’t any . . . because I gave up. Perhaps I am deserving of the “worst babysitter of the year” award, but I just couldn’t go against Adem’s six and a half years of cultural conditioning.

    This whole ordeal is fairly representative of the way things are in Turkey. While laws are basically the same as they are in Canada, disobedience is much more socially acceptable. There is a sense in which I appreciate this – you can take alcohol to the park without anybody looking askance, whether or not you are drunk. There is no need to bring a paper bag or put it in a thermos, or any other tried-and-true underage drinking strategy. More often, however, I don’t appreciate this aspect of the culture. One time I was out with an acquaintance I’d met here. We went to grab some food, and after the meal the restaurant gave us small packets of wet wipes to clean out hands with. A minute after we left, he dropped his wet wipe. Assuming he’d done it by mistake, I just picked it up to throw in the nearest garbage can (which was about 20 metres in front of us.) He said, “Oh, don’t pick that up,” and I said, “no, it’s no problem at all.” Five metres later, he dropped the wrapper too, and I realized that he was just littering deliberately.

    I don’t want to say that this is representative of all Turkish people, because it’s not. But I will say that Turkey is a much less structured society than Canada. Whenever I buckle my seat belt in the backseat, people chuckle at me – because why would you do it if the cops can’t tell? Twice, in a pinch, I’ve gotten on driverless transit without paying within the sight of others and nobody even gave me the stinky eye.

    All that said, while societal structures that focus on safety are generally more lax here, other societal structures are not. For example, it’s been my experience that the way you dress is incredibly important, and if you don’t dress the “right” way, people make comments. Your shorts are too short? People talk behind your back. You’re veiled in Izmir, one of the most anti-veil cities in Turkey? Oh my gad, you shouldn’t be. That’s not very progressive. You’re wearing makeup with your veil? Well, aside from the fact that you’re veiled, which is problematic because of reasons, (the reason being, of course, that people in Izmir think of themselves as Westernized) the juxtaposition of your obvious face-painting immodesty when the veil is a symbol of modesty is a problem. And so on. The gaze of others is strong here, and is more stifling than any veil could be.

  • This Girl Moved to Turkey After Falling in Love with a Man Who Didn’t Use Toilet Paper!

    Once upon an undergraduate classroom, I was reading a fantastic book partially set in Turkey called From the Holy Mountain. My friend Holly was also in the class, and at some point, one of us turned to the other and said, “Let’s go to Turkey and BUY! A! CARPET!”

    This was a far-fetched dream, considering neither one of us had a job that would allow for the sort of time off or  financial support we would need for such a foray into the world of international travel. So we sat tight, and dreamed, and sighed forlornly, and looked out the window at the pissing rain as we dreamed of the way our lives could be if we could just finish our degrees and do something else.

    By some strange stroke of luck, we both managed to get jobs at the same time that had paid vacation time. And so we booked our tickets, bought our visas, and jetted off to Turkey in February and March, 2014.

    When we finally found a good place to perform our planned carpet purchase, the carpet merchant and I really liked each other. We spent four days together in total, and when I came back to Canada we were both pretty upset about it.

    Looking back, this feels dumb. But a lot of things happened in the following months. I got word that I would be doing my Masters in September. I started feeling a lot of trepidation about moving again, because I was pretty sure that I wasn’t going to be able to find a summer job in the city where I was living, I had already moved three times in the previous year, I’d had a lot of trouble making friends, a pretty brutal breakup, and a job that I was really excited about but never really panned out into what I’d hoped it would be. Basically, I’d had a shit year, and the prospect of being more uprooted was a lot to bear.

    To combat the sense of displacement and rootlessness, I decided to make the most logical decision I could: move halfway across the world! Not to Western Europe, which is the most far-fetched thing my Mom could wrap her head around being a good idea. To Turkey! In the Middle East! To see if I could make things work with a carpet merchant!

    Yup.

    Since I didn’t have time to get a proper working visa, I found an au pairing gig online, and I got said carpet merchant to check them out for me. He gave the all clear, and I arrived in June.

    Things started fizzling between me and him before I even left Canada, but I was already committed to the job. They finished fizzling rather quickly on my arrival in Turkey. I went to visit, and asked for the bathroom.

    “It’s upstairs,” he said. “But there’s no toilet paper. But don’t worry. It’s not so bad to go without it.”

    “Oh, haha!” I laughed nonchalantly. “That’s not a problem at all. In fact, I shall just waggle my dick to dislodge the last few droplets, and we shall go on our merry way into the world of stuff and fun! It will be a laaaark!”

    After 24 more hours of similarly inhospitable treatment, I told him we wouldn’t be seeing each other again, and suddenly found myself thrust into the muddy waters of living in Turkey for no reason in particular.

    And that, my friends, is the story of how a holiday fling can motivate you to spend large amounts of time living in a foreign country equipped only with your sense of adventure and general pig-headedness. It is a foolproof formula to have the most wonderful, horrible, and bizarre experiences of your life.