All posts tagged Essays

  • Islamic Coverings in Turkey: Women, Young Girls, and Economics

    During my first trip to Trkey in 2014, I was surprised to see few women sporting Islamic coverings. Although public transit was plastered with advertisements for silk hijabs sported by smiling women wearing shiny trench coats and coordinated makeup, the street itself was relatively bare of covered women. In retrospect, the fact that I spent all my time around the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque explains my experience; touristic neighbourhoods are typically only frequented by foreign women since Turkish women understand that the shops and restaurants there are overpriced and the salesmen typically lecherous and inappropriately bold.

    The following summer, I moved to Izmir. Izmir, by Turkish standards, is remarkably liberal – a repository of the deification of Ataturk and his doctrine of secularism. In Izmir, bikini-clad ladies roam the beaches and barely-there sparkly dress-clad women roam the nightclubs (before returning home each night to save their virginity for marriage.) Wearing a hijab in Izmir was an act of rebellion, not a capitulation to a ruling social morality. Even my erstwhile boss, a self-professed Muslim from a more conservative city in the south eschewed it. “No, the hijab is not very good. Anyway the way women wear it these days, it is not modest!” she wailed to me once. “If you wear the hijab for modesty, you shouldn’t also wear makeup!” She showed me a picture on her phone of a Facebook friend of hers, smirking shiny red lips at the camera over a sumptuous meal, an orange hijab of expensive fabric carefully arranged atop her head. “See?” she said. “This woman is wearing so much makeup. She looks not modest.”

    My more recent forays into Turkey have allowed me to see a third snapshot of Turkish culture. I now live in a mixed neighbourhood of Istanbul. Here, Turkish students and Turkish and Syrian families of varying levels of conservatism live together. In my neighbourhood, it is a bad idea to eat in public during Ramadan. Shorts are a fairly rare sight on both men and women, even in the heat of summer. About 50% of women wear some sort of head covering, from the hijab paired with jeans and a long-sleeved t-shirt to the face-covering niqab styled with matching long flowing black robes.

    I’m told that there has been a shift towards covering in recent years – that in the olden days of 20 years ago, women who covered typically only did so following marriage and usually simply tied a scarf loosely over their hair. The new style of more intense covering has been blamed variously on the government, the government, the government, and Arab influence coming in from Syria and the Gulf, a typhoon (apparently) blowing the winds of conservative political Islam Turkey’s way. Of course, these are only the perspectives of the ultra-liberal mostly-Marxist couche sociale that I find myself a part of – it’s not exactly easy for me to gather other perspectives because the people who have them aren’t in the habit of talking to foreigners like me and, as I don’t attend school or work in Turkey, I have equally few opportunities to talk to them.

    The prevalence of Islamic covering in Turkey presents an intellectual conundrum for me. As a feminist, I support a woman’s right to wear what she wants. I’m not so blind to the fact that women are presented with many similar messages in the West as they are in Turkey – you should be sexy, but also not sexy. If you’re too sexy, people won’t take you seriously. If you’re not sexy, people won’t think you’re attractive. You should wear makeup to look nice, but not too much because there’s a possibility that people won’t find you attractive if it’s too much. They could also find you too attractive and then it will be your fault if they come onto you inappropriately. You should exercise and keep in shape – but God forbid that a man see the outline of your butt in yoga pants because he might get a boner or talk about seeing your butt to his friends. You shouldn’t care about what men think of you and you should wear what you want for yourself. But be sure that it’s sexy enough to be attractive and modest enough so that nobody can question your character. And don’t forget women. Women are the arbiter of what society thinks too, so if they think you’re not dressing correctly – well, you shouldn’t care, but make sure you’re sexy enough for women to compliment you, but not sexy enough to make their partners be attracted to you.

    But back to the hijab. As a Westerner, I’ve always had a live and let live relationship with the hijab. In Canada, whenever I see one I think one of these things:

    “I just remembered I forgot to buy dish soap.”

    “Oh, a woman wearing hijab.”

    “That must be so warm in winter.”

    “How does she make it look like a turban? How do the pins stay in place? I wonder if they can prick you by mistake, or are there safety pins specifically for hijabs that you can buy?”

    “Is that really all her real hair under that thing?”

    “She could be wearing it for so many reasons – it could be because she wants to express her religion outwardly. Or because it’s a way to publicly express her identification with her culture. Or maybe because her family wants her to. Or maybe she didn’t wash her hair today.”

    In short, I tend to make the assumption of a more-or-less free choice, or a choice that, at the very least, is just as free as the choice I and many Western women make to dress in ways that tread the brutal line between being attractive and being the sort of person one takes seriously.

    This live and let live attitude came with me during my first months in Turkey, and I ardently argued for my perspectives to secularist friends and acquaintances, probably to their great annoyance. After more time spent in the country, however, my perception of the hijab in Turkey has changed; I now understand that pressures to dress a certain way go beyond society and enter many strata of government. To hear my friends tell it, a certain level of conservatism is practically a requirement if you have your eye on a good post in government, and a post in government is like being thrown onto an island of job stability while other Turks drown in the treacherous sea of the Turkish economy. So, while I still affirm an adult woman’s right to wear what she wants, the social pressure that exists in Turkey to dress in a way that covers your body is bothersome to me because the more pressure there is, the less choice a woman actually has.

    What bothers me even more is when I see prepubescent girls who are already covered. I have seen a few girls around the age of eight. My sister-in-law told me she once saw a covered little girl around the age of 5. I’m no Muslim theologian, and I haven’t thoroughly studied what Muslim scholars say about Islamic modesty’s links to (female) sexuality. However, this lack of profound knowledge notwithstanding, I do understand that popular perception holds that the hijab is about hiding the body and sexuality or (more generously) about seeing a woman for virtues that have nothing to do with her body and sexuality. So whenever I see young girls with heads already covered, I can’t help but resent the implicit sexualization of the young girl’s body.

    If I’ve learned one thing from feeling frustrated about people who cover their children or people who refuse to admit that the hijab isn’t as free a choice as it could be, it is this: engaging another culture can present real and serious difficulty to people with a particular notion of ethics, morality, and what is good for people; it is not as simple as just “respecting” somebody else’s culture. Sometimes, differing beliefs can even motivate the essentially altruistic behaviour of trying to change something about a culture (although, of course this may not be perceived positively by the culture one is trying to change.) Even though I say nothing when I see eight-years-olds wearing hijab, I feel suddenly empathetic for the bad guy “orientalists” and “missionaries” and “colonists” of history, not because I think all their actions can be justified, but because I understand what it feels like to see something in another culture and believe that it’s basically wrong.

    When do we have the right to try to change something? Or to make a moral call? Does anybody have any ideas that are better than mine?

    **To be very clear: I believe that adult women should be able to make the free choice to cover or uncover. I also believe that implicit sexualisation of young girls and being forced to cover for economic and other unavoidable reasons is wrong.

  • How Reverse Culture Shock Led me to Google “Atheist Yoga”

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    I came ‘home’ last week to a surprise bout of reverse-culture shock; as soon I stepped off the plane in Toronto, a profound feeling of depaysement hit me like an unexpected rainstorm on a sunny day. My flawless Canadian accent and manners seemed but tools in an espionage operation designed to infiltrate Canadian society, not a natural part of my identity.

    I’ve felt out of place before, of course. I feel out of place each time I re-enter Turkey after an extended bout in Canada. Still, Istanbul, with all its charms and flaws, begins to feel like home after a while. And, as I learned as I walked through the Toronto airport, Canada begins to feel like a foreign country after a while too.

    In the lineup to go through passport control, Canadians stood with metre-wide spaces between them and complained about nothing. My inner monologue started working overtime, like a jaded old person who thinks age grants a license to say anything, no matter how mean or unconstructive.

    For example: Shut up two guys with nice clothes complaining about Winnipeg. You don’t understand what it’s like to have problems. I can’t believe you guys can’t even appreciate Winnipeg. Seriously, Istanbul is so much harder than Winnipeg. People from Winnipeg can’t even imagine how much harder life is in Istanbul than it is in Winnipeg.

    Complaining about Istanbul is an unpleasant sort of municipal sport of Istanbulites, a habit I had unconsciously embraced as a confirmation of my belonging to the city.

    An officious woman of Caribbean stock was in charge of making people line up properly for passport control. She bustled her way up and down the lineup of empty spaces like a pacman, opening barriers and zipping them shut, yelling rude things at travellers, which as a recently transplant from Istanbul, I found strangely comforting.

    “You need to keep moving,” she bawled across the line full of empty spaces. “Don’t stop, keep walkin’. And don’t cut in line like dis idiaht heyaah.”

    Over the next few days I felt foreign. I knew people couldn’t possibly because I lived in Istanbul. My inner monologue stayed nasty. To the smiley guy at my local coffee shop, my inner monologue sniffed, “You’ve never been to Istanbul have you? You don’t understand.” To some girls I heard complaining about some love interest, my inner monologue sneered “You are so vacuous and people in Istanbul have harder lives. Shut up.” To the squirrels at the park across the street from me my inner monologue mused, “These squirrels don’t know how lucky they are to have all this green space. Istanbul doesn’t have any places for squirrels. Also, I wonder what they taste like? I bet they’re delicious.”

    The unchecked condescension of my inner monologue was worst at my yoga classes. I have never depended on yoga for anything but exercise, but I was always easygoing and patient when it came to listening to the spiritual teachings of the instructors and unscientific statements they came up with about our bodies. But after Istanbul, I suddenly felt less tolerant.

    Teacher: When we feel stress, tension lands in our hips.

    Inner monologue: YOU KNOW WHAT ACTUALLY LANDS IN OUR HIPS? SITTING DOWN.

    Teacher: We have to remember that it’s love that binds the world together, that amidst the darkness there’s so much light and you can shine that light out onto the world.

    Inner monologue: First of all, that is just a glib thing to say. Second of all, you’re paraphrasing Jesus with that light of the world stuff and not citing your sources. Third, this spirituality is like pablum masquerading as fusion food (Canadian water! Rice from countries that actually grow rice!), a bland mix of West and East cobbled together to create the illusion of effortless self-actualization. Fourth, we all know that most of us are too occupied with our lives to do any major light-shining or contributions to making the world a better place. Our fancy yoga clothes are stitched by children in Bangladesh and that’s just the most immediately obvious problem with our lavish lifestyles.

    Teacher: We come together to take some time for ourselves in this spiritual practice of yoga…

    Inner monologue: CUT THE CRAP WE’RE JUST A BUNCH OF BOUGIES GETTING SOME EXERCISE

    Meditating was impossible; concentrating on the asanas was difficult. Even just showing up at the studio made me feel guilty for the ease of my life in Canada. Everything about the place – the candles, the slick wood floors, the Better Homes and Yoga Studios decorations, the prodigious expense of taking classes – contrasted with the difficulties I encountered every day in Istanbul. These aren’t my own difficulties though (those are fairly minor), but the difficulties of those around me. In Istanbul, I get to see people whose purchasing power is half of that of a Canadian making minimum wage struggle to make ends meet all the time! There are Syrian refugee children begging in the street! Women are treated as second-class citizens! The government likes to arrest anybody they feel is critical of them! It’s a bouquet of daily difficulties that, somehow, made me feel somewhat less guilty about having a comparatively easy life.

    To add to these feelings that nobody understood what I’d been through, I began to feel uncomfortable with the fact that I’d allowed the world’s (and specifically, Istanbul’s) problems to determine some of my feelings of worth. Cognitively I understood that no Canadians were at fault for being born in Canada, that the insignificance of the problems they experience is directly related to being from Canada. I also understood that I shouldn’t feel self-righteous or good about myself for living in a place with problems or for doing things to solve those problems. My own and others’ problems do not exist to make me feel better about myself, and living in a place with relatively few problems like Canada shouldn’t and doesn’t mean that I, and other Canadians, can’t carve out a meaningful existence. Not only are those feelings of self-righteousness and annoyance presumptive, they also exploit the lives of those with major problems for my own gain.

    What a cornucopia of contradictory feelings!

    Another problem: It wasn’t until I came back to Canada that I fully appreciated the worry that my friends and family felt during a Turkish summer that was objectively terrifying. The worst moment, I think, was the airport bombing at Ataturk International Airport. That day, I was flying to Istanbul and I’d mentioned it to lots of people. What those people didn’t know was my flight time and that I was flying to a different airport. While I was waiting for the baggage counter to open, my phone died. Only a few minutes later, the bombs went off in Istanbul. It wasn’t until two hours after the bombing that I was able to get messages out that I was okay. The bombing was hugely upsetting for me, but it wasn’t until I came back that I truly understood how horrible it was for my family and friends, since at least I’d enjoyed the privilege of being aware that I hadn’t died the whole time. And so coming home, which entailed being sucked into a whirlpool of condescending feelings, also entailed feeling hammered by guilt about the decisions I’ve made to live in Istanbul and to have a Turkish partner.

    I’ve been back a week and a half now, and many of the feelings have softened as I’ve readjusted to the ease of living in Canada, but they haven’t disappeared. I still feel guilt about my decisions to put myself in danger that I could just as easily avoid. And I’m still challenged by feelings of condescension for the ease of Canadian life.

    The feeling that has persisted the strongest, oddly, is an utter contempt for yoga spirituality. The other day I found myself thinking of ways to tackle this problem – should I quit yoga and take a different exercise class? Should I look for a dance tradition that’s heavy on stretching? Should I just try to find yoga teachers that are more into the exercise aspects of the practice?

    It culminated in a late-night googling session where I googled many things including, “Non-spiritual yoga,” “yoga for people who just want to exercise,” and “yoga for athiests.” Unfortunately, all I found were the musings of a few angry bloggers about the culturally appropriative and classist aspects of yoga, which was cool because I agreed with them but not that cool because no studio anywhere seems to have embraced a yoga without daytime television-esque spiritual pretensions.

    In conclusion, Turkey and Istanbul have changed me in ways I did not expect. Canada feels like a home again, but a slightly more ill-fitting one. And I might hate yoga now.

  • A Fearful Man is a Bad Man

    A few weeks ago, we went to see my in-laws for the end of Ramadan. It was a whirlwind. We ate my mother-in-law’s (unparalleled) Turkish cooking, and received honest-to-goodness calls from relatives in my mother-in-law’s honest-to-goodness parlour (complete with china cabinet, tea and coffee in fancy cups, and elaborate slightly uncomfortable furniture, natch). The pre-call routine involved gossip about who hadn’t shown up yet; during the call, the gossip was about other relatives’ news; and after the call everybody put themselves to discussing who’d decided to wear a hijab this year, the relatives who’d stopped wearing them, and that one relative that talked so fast that nobody (not just me!) could understand her. Perched uncomfortably on the parlour couch I willed my ears into understanding the direction of the conversations, answered questions about my family and did my best to act polite, shake hands the right way, and definitely not shake the hand of the father of a tidily hijabbed family who, Adem informed me later, bothered him because they even refused to touch his hand even though they were family, and that he really didn’t feel it was necessary for them to sexualize a familial relationship in any way.

    Then there was the story that got told and retold of how my brother-in-law once ate an entire tray (60 cm diameter) of baklava, the extremely-cool-for-a-nine-year-old manicure I gave my niece, walks by the seaside, a whole host of childhood and high school friends that Adem and I ran into on the street and in cafes, a trip to buy some new clothes -“Don’t mention your boyfriend’s belly too much! You’ll hurt his feelings!” said the salesman to me after I told Adem that he should get a larger size – and then, when I thought that I couldn’t eat any more again MORE BAKLAVA and chocolate and coffee and relatives and neighbours asking who I was and on and on it went.

    It was pleasant and normal and a bit tiring, but mostly pleasant.

    Soon after the holidays, of course, came the coup and a whole host of unpleasantness and abnormalcy. These days, while Turkey has returned to normal in many ways, it’s a new normal and a not altogether agreeable one. What I have learned is that there are still the small normal joys of Istanbul life – when the grocer down the street tries to tell me that they are selling spicy tomatoes that day because he thinks my delayed reactions are funny, when the baker gets me the bread I always buy off the shelf before I ask for it, when I pet the street cats outside of my apartment, and when I watch the neighbours who leave their lights on at night do normal peaceful things – washing dishes, playing computer games, smoking and drinking tea, lying in bed, playing with their phones, feeding their babies.

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    Istanbul is densely packed like this, so spying on neighbours is both easy and affordable!

    There is a dark undercurrent of fear in daily life now though. No matter what nationality you are, if you are taken into custody by the Turkish police they are legally authorized to hold you for thirty days. (The American and Australian embassies warned their citizens that, should they be taken into custody they could ask police or prison officials to please, kindly, notify their embassies. Because, of course, there is a huge incentive for police and prison officials to do that when they suspect you of terrorism. Oh, and the Canadian embassy did not warn Canadians that this was a potential threat, I guess because they feel like sending an e-mail round and having a Facebook page is a heinous waste of government manpower.)
    There have been some police seizing cell phones looking for anti-government messages. (I always delete my most recent messages before going outside now – not because I supported the coup, but because I vehemently do not support the government.) Additionally, many Turkish people believe that the CIA was behind the coup, a theory that seems quite farfetched from where I’m standing, but has even been aired in major newspapers. And so far tens of thousands of people have been arrested or detained, many of whom have no links to Fethullah Gülen, the man now more-or-less universally accepted to be behind the coup, at all.

    Last week, a woman who was six months pregnant was attacked in our neighbourhood by three people, who accused her of dressing immodestly and of being a Gülenist (these two things are actually a bit incongruous since Gülen is an Islamist, but Turkey never seems to make sense, so whatever.) The attackers, apparently, told her that there were four other people in the neighbourhood that they had an eye on. Hearing this sent me furiously googling Krav Maga classes somewhere – anywhere – so that I’d have something to do if I were assaulted in a similar way and was forced to physically defend myself, my freedom to wear bloomers, and my position that anybody who would send soldiers out to their deaths without telling them that that might be what they’re in for is not somebody I would like to align myself with, ever.

    It hit me then that something had changed in my responses to learning about what’s going on around me; or at least, I’m learning how I respond when these kinds of things are going on around me. In Canada incidents like this are essentially unheard of, so I’ve never been in a position to really think about what I would do. I’ve never been physically violent with anybody outside of fits of childhood rage, and I have no desire to be. But I’ve learned now what it’s like to live in fear, to have your decision-making be reduced to the autopilot of fight or flight responses. Even now, when I think about what the appropriate course of action would be if I were attacked, I find myself at a loss despite the fact that, when I left Canada, I was definitely of the opinion that I was a pacifist if nobody but myself was in a position to be harmed.

    I’ve been reading through famous Turkish writer Yashar Kemal’s oeuvre, and in one of his books he writes “A fearful man is a bad man.” I think this is true much of the time. Fear has made me question my own values, and I see very clearly now how quickly it can change a peaceful person into somebody who accepts and normalizes violence because I have become that person in moments of thoughtlessness and … perhaps even in moments of thoughtfulness.

  • Tbilisi is Neverland or Is World Travel Necessarily Meaningful?

    This is the first photograph I ever took of Tbilisi.

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    I remember taking this photograph. I took it because it represented a huge shift from the Turkish graffiti I’d grown accustomed to, which mostly consisted of cheerful political slogans like “Fuck the AKP,” “Israel is a murderer,” and “The PKK kills babies.” After my first night spent in Georgia I burst into somewhat-relieved laughter at the giant penis spray-painted on the wall across from my guesthouse. No political slogan to go along with it, no nod to the country’s myriad problems, no in-your-face accusations of baby-killing – just pure juvenile vandalism.

    I forgot to take a picture of that penis, but a few mornings later while I was making my first explorations of Tbilisi I noticed the “Never Grow Up” graffiti and snapped a photograph to preserve a memory of the sense of possibility that Georgia seemed to possess.

    Graffiti isn’t necessarily a good lens through which to understand a country, and it wasn’t like Georgia didn’t have any problems or people who talked about them. In fact, some of the Georgians I met seemed even more pessimistic about the state of Georgia than many Turkish people, despite the optimistic graffiti that adorned their capital city.

    Still, looking back, this graffito encapsulates a certain type of foreign experience of the city; for many of us non-Georgians, Tbilisi was a Neverland and we were Peter Pans running away from our parents. Citizens of many countries have the right to 360 day visa-free access to Georgia, so we came in droves to partake in the cheap cost of living, cheap wine, endless possibility, and stalled adulthood. Not all of us had work permits, but that didn’t matter much because most of us worked remotely for companies based in countries with did have permits for. A few worked under the table. A few, who knows how many, bucked the trend and actually paid taxes.

    Everybody had a different way of refusing to grow up. There were the party animals, who lived to drink and have a good time. There were the artists who couldn’t support themselves on an artist’s salary in their country of citizenship but moved to Tbilisi rather than suck it up and get a day job. There were the small business owners, people who were trying to innovate in a place where it was less risky to do so because . . . how much money did they really need to support themselves and their families? Then, of course, there was the posse of travellers and temporary residents like myself who were there for lots of reasons – adventure, a chance to see another part of the world, a lack of desire to settle down and follow established societal scripts of getting married and buying a home or even just getting a “real job.”

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    Some foreigners were long-term residents, but most didn’t really integrate. A few were married to Georgians; but I only met one or two foreign people who could actually speak the language. A few Georgian members would show up to language and sports clubs that consisted of mostly foreigners, but not many. Foreign resident after foreign resident confessed to me that they didn’t mix that much with Georgians – and not because they didn’t want to. It was because they felt like Georgians were closed in among themselves and preoccupied with their families and the friends they grew up with.

    When I reflected on this, I wondered if we were really living in Georgia or in some kind of limbolike facsimile – between Georgia and our metaphorical parents in godknowswhereverwewerefrom. We weren’t necessarily trying to live in an imaginary Georgia without Georgians, but we sort of did since we spent only a small percentage of our time with locals. Furthermore, the locals we did tend to spend time with were generally Georgians that had spent significant time in Europe or elsewhere; it was mainly their understanding of our cultures that made our meetings possible, and not the other way around.

    Tbilisi from atop the funicular

    Tbilisi from atop the funicular

    Did Georgians share in this Neverland experience? Probably not like us, they didn’t. One time at a language exchange group one of the two Georgian people there complained to a group of a dozen foreigners (mostly from the Euro-zone) that taxis had gotten expensive lately. Her comment was met with a chorus of denial. Taxis weren’t expensive in Georgia, because we did not say it was so. It was enough that they didn’t seem expensive to us.

    Certainly, the average Georgian salary was much lower than what we, as come-from-aways, were generally earning. The childishness of our automatic chorus of denial was two-fold. One, we couldn’t acknowledge that spending our money carried some sense of responsibility. We just had so much of it that it didn’t really seem to matter. Second, it was hard for us to understand how hard others had to work for their money. It was as though, like children, we believed in some sort of imaginary money tree that everybody had access to. Selfishly, we couldn’t look beyond our noses to acknowledge that even a three to five dollar taxi ride could be beyond the means of some.

    It was only when drinking that I began to feel like this Neverland-style of living sometimes did seem to extend to Georgians. One time at the salon I became an inadvertent part of a Georgian fete – in this case, for the salon owner’s birthday. When I descended the stairs after my manicure, a group of middle-aged adults were already merrily slammed and were getting enthusiastically drunker near the entrance. I was handed a plate piled with food as well as glass after glass of vodka. I wasn’t allowed to refuse because I had to toast everybody and their mother. We communicated in butchered drunken Russian, and butchered drunken English, and they taught me words associated with drinking and birthdays in Georgian. I walked home full, and a little too drunk for my normal I’m-an-adult tastes.

    Despite this one experience, as I reflected on the nearly two months that I spent in Tbilisi, I realized that I learned a lot less about the country than I would have liked to because I engaged it as a child would. For Georgians, possibility of drunkenness aside, your chances of getting a visa to go elsewhere probably aren’t high like they are for foreigners like me. You might not earn enough money to pay yourself a taxi across town. Everybody knows you, and your mother, and your father, and what your brother did in high school. I doubt that Georgians enjoy the kind of freedom from established norms of adulthood within their own culture that us foreigners did. We just packed up and left our societies behind, while Georgians in Georgia likely contend with what it means to be an adult in Georgia every single day.

    I don’t want to make Georgia out as necessarily being a bad country for Georgians, nor do I want to say that we foreigners were bad people for not integrating or for having a good time (by and large, I really enjoyed the people that I met, and couldn’t blame them for seeking out the more relaxed life that Tbilisi gave them. I was in exactly the same boat.) I want to say that I had a childish experience, that in a Peter Pan-like way I never came to understand what I was seeing and, shamefully, didn’t make any real efforts to. All I can say is that life in Tbilisi was easy and fun. The alcohol was cheap and plentiful, the food was delicious, and my money went much further than it does at home.

    I didn’t learn Georgian in Georgia. What I did learn was that even though people laud the experience of travelling as a good way to give you a wider perspective of the world and create meaning in your life, this is not always accurate. Travelling can certainly be a catalyst to gaining a wider perspective, but the truth is that it can also be an exercise in superficiality and childish non-engagement that few wish to acknowledge. Travellers are not necessarily more worldly than people who stay at home, and travel is not synonymous with meaning. Travel is travel, and that’s all there is. If you find meaning in it, it’s neither better nor worse or more likely than finding meaning in any other aspect of life.

  • Ankara Bombings

    As most of you have probably already heard, the Turkish capital of Ankara suffered a bombing on Saturday that killed many people. It was next to the train station, which I myself passed through a few weeks ago.

    I wish I could say that I was surprised when I heard the news, but I wasn’t. I’d been meaning to write a post about the larger political situation in Turkey, and when this happened I thought I would be able to write about it, too. But when I sat down to do it I wasn’t able to get my thoughts down in any coherent way. I was too angry and too sad.

    I realized that, although I have strong ideas about who might have orchestrated this attack and what benefits it might have brought them, it will do little for me to voice these thoughts here. The point of this attack was an attempt by somebody to make Turkey a more fearful place. No matter who orchestrated it, it qualifies as terrorism. It was calculated to strike fear into Turkish and Kurdish people, into people who support the current government as well as people who do not support it. It is an attack on free speech and political criticism, and it will serve to further polarize Turkey’s already extremely polarized political discourse as everybody points fingers at one another. It may be the beginning of greater violence than is already occurring in Turkey, although I still hold out a small hope that it’s not.

    On November 1, Turkey will hold the second set of parliamentary elections this year. I can only hope that it will elect leaders who will be united for the goal of giving Turkey the peace that Turkish people deserve. Nobody deserves to live in fear, and nobody deserves to have their right to criticize governmental decisions and values be threatened in any way. Nobody deserves to live in a country where some people are considered inferior to others. Nobody deserves to live in a country where hatred is seen as a valid response to anything. And certainly, none of the people killed in the attacks deserved to die.

  • The Perils of Cultural Criticism

    When I was a teenager this guy named Joey, an Australian, moved in next door. Joey was a generally loud person, and spent a lot of his time making negative comments about Canada. The main points that I remember were that taxes weren’t included in the prices and that “you would never see Australian drivers stopping for jaywalkers.”

    Joey’s opinions about Canada grated on me. I even went so far as to justify the Canadian way of doing things in my head: “Well, not having taxes included in our prices makes us better at mental math, and people stop for jaywalkers because Canadians must care about each other WAY MORE than Australians.”

    Later that year Joey hosted Kim, a young woman from Australia. If I had thought Joey was annoying, this woman was 1000 times worse. On top of her seemingly constant criticisms, she had a whiney voice, and I have this one memory of her sort of moaning at me, “It’s soah weiird that you guys dye your cheese yellerhhh.”

    Ergh! I just wanted to tell her where she could stuff a block of white cheese. Leave us and our yellow cheese alone! Nobody forced you to come here!

    Needless to say, I may have taken Joey and Kim’s cultural observations a bit personally.

    Now that I’m older and better travelled, I understand that it is a bit strange that Canadian prices don’t include taxes and that our cheese is dyed a truly disconcerting shade of yellow. I’m also a bit ashamed about having been so defensive about Joey and Kim’s criticisms, although I also still understand why I felt that way.

    The point of this story is that, now that I travel a lot, my feelings towards Joey and Kim have become more gracious because I have realized that I sometimes make similar comments in the countries that I visit. I struggle with the tension between the fact that, while I like expressing and communicating my feelings and I don’t generally consider them illegitimate, these comments can actually cause personal hurt or irritation to people from that country.

    Here is one small example: I love food. I cook a lot at home. I spend more money on food than I do on rent. And I have generally have high standards for what I eat.

    I’ll be honest: I don’t love Turkish food. I know it is famous around the world. I wouldn’t say that it’s unpalatable or disgusting. I have had some really good meals in Turkey, and some Turkish dishes are counted among my favourites. I am also especially thankful to Turkish people who have hosted me and cooked for me.

    Generally, however, I find that Turkish food all tastes pretty similar and that the Turkish spice repertoire is limited. And there’s no vanilla in the cookies.

    And so every time I come to Turkey, I end up dropping 5-10 pounds because, even though Turkish food is fine, I’m rarely enthused about eating it. To add to this, almost all Turkish restaurants serve exactly the same meals, so knowing that the same foods are all available to me at any time takes away my motivation to get really excited.

    After a little while in Turkey I looked in the mirror and realized that, once again, I’d lost weight. Turning around to observe the new way my shirt was hanging, I made this observation out loud.

    In retrospect, I probably shouldn’t have done this. People were being very hospitable to me, and I wouldn’t want to imply that they weren’t feeding me well. Except that maybe that’s exactly how the comment came across. Now that I’ve left Turkey, I can’t help but think back on that moment and feel kind of ashamed by how rude this comment must have sounded. And it isn’t just that comment. There are actually a lot of things I don’t like about Turkey, and I comment on them fairly often. I would not be surprised or blame a Turkish person if I made a comment and they thought, “Nobody forced you to come here.”

    On the other hand, I also think that it’s okay to feel conflicted about a place. I love Canada, but there are a lot of things about it that I don’t love (ranging from our history vis-à-vis our Aboriginal populations to the fact that it’s a lot harder to make friends to our generally sub-par public transport systems etc etc.) The difference is that, in Canada, if I make some comment about us having a bad public transport system, nobody will take it as a personal affront to Canada, but when two foreign girls did the exact same thing last year, they were disparaged as sanctimonious foreigners who had absolutely no understanding of how Canada works. (Make sure to read the comments at the bottom of the article. They are embarrassing.)

    It’s a balancing act that I hope I don’t flub up too much. I love Turkey, but I don’t love all of Turkey. And I love Canada, but I don’t love all of Canada. And I try and hope to express my opinions in kind ways, and to express only opinions that matter, but often I don’t. Unfortunately for me, my status as a foreigner makes this a trickier road than usual to navigate. Who am I to say anything? Nobody forced me to come here!

    It’s maddening. It’s one of the really uncomfortable things about travelling. It sometimes makes me wonder if I am actually a decent person. And yet, somehow I have to get past it and keep going and live with myself. Even if I’m not proud of things I’ve said or done, or if I feel conflicted about the value of expressing my opinions, or if it irritates me that my opinions are interpreted differently than those of a person from the country I am visiting.

    I wish I could come up with some better kind of conclusion, but I can’t. This is just a challenge that comes with being on the road.