All posts tagged Montreal

  • How Reverse Culture Shock Led me to Google “Atheist Yoga”

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    I came ‘home’ last week to a surprise bout of reverse-culture shock; as soon I stepped off the plane in Toronto, a profound feeling of depaysement hit me like an unexpected rainstorm on a sunny day. My flawless Canadian accent and manners seemed but tools in an espionage operation designed to infiltrate Canadian society, not a natural part of my identity.

    I’ve felt out of place before, of course. I feel out of place each time I re-enter Turkey after an extended bout in Canada. Still, Istanbul, with all its charms and flaws, begins to feel like home after a while. And, as I learned as I walked through the Toronto airport, Canada begins to feel like a foreign country after a while too.

    In the lineup to go through passport control, Canadians stood with metre-wide spaces between them and complained about nothing. My inner monologue started working overtime, like a jaded old person who thinks age grants a license to say anything, no matter how mean or unconstructive.

    For example: Shut up two guys with nice clothes complaining about Winnipeg. You don’t understand what it’s like to have problems. I can’t believe you guys can’t even appreciate Winnipeg. Seriously, Istanbul is so much harder than Winnipeg. People from Winnipeg can’t even imagine how much harder life is in Istanbul than it is in Winnipeg.

    Complaining about Istanbul is an unpleasant sort of municipal sport of Istanbulites, a habit I had unconsciously embraced as a confirmation of my belonging to the city.

    An officious woman of Caribbean stock was in charge of making people line up properly for passport control. She bustled her way up and down the lineup of empty spaces like a pacman, opening barriers and zipping them shut, yelling rude things at travellers, which as a recently transplant from Istanbul, I found strangely comforting.

    “You need to keep moving,” she bawled across the line full of empty spaces. “Don’t stop, keep walkin’. And don’t cut in line like dis idiaht heyaah.”

    Over the next few days I felt foreign. I knew people couldn’t possibly because I lived in Istanbul. My inner monologue stayed nasty. To the smiley guy at my local coffee shop, my inner monologue sniffed, “You’ve never been to Istanbul have you? You don’t understand.” To some girls I heard complaining about some love interest, my inner monologue sneered “You are so vacuous and people in Istanbul have harder lives. Shut up.” To the squirrels at the park across the street from me my inner monologue mused, “These squirrels don’t know how lucky they are to have all this green space. Istanbul doesn’t have any places for squirrels. Also, I wonder what they taste like? I bet they’re delicious.”

    The unchecked condescension of my inner monologue was worst at my yoga classes. I have never depended on yoga for anything but exercise, but I was always easygoing and patient when it came to listening to the spiritual teachings of the instructors and unscientific statements they came up with about our bodies. But after Istanbul, I suddenly felt less tolerant.

    Teacher: When we feel stress, tension lands in our hips.

    Inner monologue: YOU KNOW WHAT ACTUALLY LANDS IN OUR HIPS? SITTING DOWN.

    Teacher: We have to remember that it’s love that binds the world together, that amidst the darkness there’s so much light and you can shine that light out onto the world.

    Inner monologue: First of all, that is just a glib thing to say. Second of all, you’re paraphrasing Jesus with that light of the world stuff and not citing your sources. Third, this spirituality is like pablum masquerading as fusion food (Canadian water! Rice from countries that actually grow rice!), a bland mix of West and East cobbled together to create the illusion of effortless self-actualization. Fourth, we all know that most of us are too occupied with our lives to do any major light-shining or contributions to making the world a better place. Our fancy yoga clothes are stitched by children in Bangladesh and that’s just the most immediately obvious problem with our lavish lifestyles.

    Teacher: We come together to take some time for ourselves in this spiritual practice of yoga…

    Inner monologue: CUT THE CRAP WE’RE JUST A BUNCH OF BOUGIES GETTING SOME EXERCISE

    Meditating was impossible; concentrating on the asanas was difficult. Even just showing up at the studio made me feel guilty for the ease of my life in Canada. Everything about the place – the candles, the slick wood floors, the Better Homes and Yoga Studios decorations, the prodigious expense of taking classes – contrasted with the difficulties I encountered every day in Istanbul. These aren’t my own difficulties though (those are fairly minor), but the difficulties of those around me. In Istanbul, I get to see people whose purchasing power is half of that of a Canadian making minimum wage struggle to make ends meet all the time! There are Syrian refugee children begging in the street! Women are treated as second-class citizens! The government likes to arrest anybody they feel is critical of them! It’s a bouquet of daily difficulties that, somehow, made me feel somewhat less guilty about having a comparatively easy life.

    To add to these feelings that nobody understood what I’d been through, I began to feel uncomfortable with the fact that I’d allowed the world’s (and specifically, Istanbul’s) problems to determine some of my feelings of worth. Cognitively I understood that no Canadians were at fault for being born in Canada, that the insignificance of the problems they experience is directly related to being from Canada. I also understood that I shouldn’t feel self-righteous or good about myself for living in a place with problems or for doing things to solve those problems. My own and others’ problems do not exist to make me feel better about myself, and living in a place with relatively few problems like Canada shouldn’t and doesn’t mean that I, and other Canadians, can’t carve out a meaningful existence. Not only are those feelings of self-righteousness and annoyance presumptive, they also exploit the lives of those with major problems for my own gain.

    What a cornucopia of contradictory feelings!

    Another problem: It wasn’t until I came back to Canada that I fully appreciated the worry that my friends and family felt during a Turkish summer that was objectively terrifying. The worst moment, I think, was the airport bombing at Ataturk International Airport. That day, I was flying to Istanbul and I’d mentioned it to lots of people. What those people didn’t know was my flight time and that I was flying to a different airport. While I was waiting for the baggage counter to open, my phone died. Only a few minutes later, the bombs went off in Istanbul. It wasn’t until two hours after the bombing that I was able to get messages out that I was okay. The bombing was hugely upsetting for me, but it wasn’t until I came back that I truly understood how horrible it was for my family and friends, since at least I’d enjoyed the privilege of being aware that I hadn’t died the whole time. And so coming home, which entailed being sucked into a whirlpool of condescending feelings, also entailed feeling hammered by guilt about the decisions I’ve made to live in Istanbul and to have a Turkish partner.

    I’ve been back a week and a half now, and many of the feelings have softened as I’ve readjusted to the ease of living in Canada, but they haven’t disappeared. I still feel guilt about my decisions to put myself in danger that I could just as easily avoid. And I’m still challenged by feelings of condescension for the ease of Canadian life.

    The feeling that has persisted the strongest, oddly, is an utter contempt for yoga spirituality. The other day I found myself thinking of ways to tackle this problem – should I quit yoga and take a different exercise class? Should I look for a dance tradition that’s heavy on stretching? Should I just try to find yoga teachers that are more into the exercise aspects of the practice?

    It culminated in a late-night googling session where I googled many things including, “Non-spiritual yoga,” “yoga for people who just want to exercise,” and “yoga for athiests.” Unfortunately, all I found were the musings of a few angry bloggers about the culturally appropriative and classist aspects of yoga, which was cool because I agreed with them but not that cool because no studio anywhere seems to have embraced a yoga without daytime television-esque spiritual pretensions.

    In conclusion, Turkey and Istanbul have changed me in ways I did not expect. Canada feels like a home again, but a slightly more ill-fitting one. And I might hate yoga now.

  • Public Transport Marketing has Failed Montreal and Istanbul Alike

    A lot of travel writing engages fairly safe themes such as “underneath our different exterior, we’re all basically the same,” “I connected with locals so deeply even though I only met them for a few hours or days,” and “look at this beautiful nature and how cheap the booze is. You too can live such a glamorous life, and set yourself apart from the rest of the sheep in wherever the hell it is that you even live. Yay.”

    None of these themes generally reflect my travel experiences, but today one of them does. “Underneath our different exterior,” I thought to myself as I bashed out this piece “we’re more similar than we realize.”

    “How?” you might ask, perhaps envisioning something slightly orientalist and condescending, a written navel-gazey contemplation on the fact that me and people whose reality of life I will never truly understand share the common experience of having to prepare food (or something).

    Nope. It’s – tada! – about how public transport marketing portrayals can fail to live up to reality across oceans, cultures, and time.

    Have a look at these YouTube videos. The first is 1970s commercial for the subway system in Montreal. The dancers sing “It’s nice in the subway. Everybody’s feeling gay and sunshiney. Our subway is the most beautiful in the world. It’s nice in the subway (and in the subway’s little brother – the bus). Long live the subway!”

    Some Montrealers took issue with this propagandistic picture of the public transit system, and create a parody entitled “Il fait chaud dans le métro” – It’s too hot in the subway – a tribute to the famously high temperatures of the Montreal underground.  The heavily paraphrased lyrics of this song? “It’s too hot in the subway. Everybody’s sweating from head to toes. The price of the monthly pass is as high as the temperature. Our subway’s going to be the hottest in the world for 50 years. It’s even hot in the flipping winter!”

    1970s Montreal marketers tried to present an idealized version of the subway in a bid to solicit more passengers. 40 years later and thousands of kilometers away, the directors of the IETT, the Istanbul public transport system, would do much the same with similar results.

    The IETT commercial is even more laughable than the Montreal one. While riding the Montreal metro is indeed a bit warm, being forced to ride the IETT might actually have inspired a 21st century Dante to write a sequel to the Inferno.*

    Have a look at the real commercial. The key words spoken by the slightly hypnotic voice are “safe, secure, comfortable, fast, good quality etc.” The IETT is not really any of these things (although I’m still thankful that it exists.)

    Then have a look at this parody, a remarkably faithful representation of what it’s really like to ride public transport in Istanbul. The only thing the comedian missed was the experience of being groped and not being able to move or slap the hand away because it’s too packed, that moment when you finally get a seat only to have somebody very elderly enter the bus at the next stop, or the second you suddenly realize that your hand is on a 55 year old man’s crotch, and has been there for three minutes (true story.) Oh, and what it feels like to miss your stop because it’s even more packed than in the parody and you can’t push through the people to get off.

    The takeaway of all this? If you visit either Montreal or Istanbul, slap on a few extra layers of deodorant and if in Istanbul, pay attention to the placement of your hands.

    *Just imagine, The Divine Quadrilogy Part II: Constantinople

  • This Girl Got Bed Bugs in Montreal. Here’s How

    I chose the least gross picture I could find.

    After three months of living in a developing country, host to many creepy crawlies including cockroaches as big as my thumb, spiders as bit as a tea saucer, and the biggest grasshopper I have ever seen in my life I have arrived home in Canada, to our predictable, boring, and decidedly safe country. The day after I arrived home, I gazed happily at the clean streets and grey skies, as the cold 21 degree air raised delicious goosebumps on my skin. Inhaling a deep breath of the non-cigarette scented air, I thought “Man, am I ever glad to be home!”

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    A bad picture of the HUGE grasshopper. That is my finger for scale.

    Project number 1 was to find a place to live. This I did in two days. Having just come back from Turkey, which is cockroach central, I was very extremely careful about checking for pests, and probably asked the super about it five times. I also called the neighbours to confirm. The place was clean. Hurrah!

    My roommate, Baptiste, and I then had to furnish the place. Step 1 was beds. Passing a mattress lying out by the side of the road, Baptiste made as if to take it.

    “No Baptiste,” I said. “There be bed bugs in these streets, and they are scarier than the Hells Angels, the Charter of Secularism, and all the people convicted in the Charbonneau Commission combined. They will cause you physical harm, make you feel like you don’t belong in a place, and take your money all in one fell swoop. Let’s please not take that chance.”

    Baptiste thought that only a jerk would leave out a perfectly good-looking mattress without cutting it up if it were infested with bed bugs, but I was adamant. No roommate of mine was going to bring pests into our happy domicile. Plus, I wasn’t entirely sure that a person dealing with bed bugs would be clearheaded enough to advertise that a mattress was infested when they put it out by the curb.

    Since garbage picking for beds wasn’t an option for me (though *ahem* some other furniture may have been sourced that way), I found two beds and mattresses on Kijiji and got the guy to drive them over for me. Baptiste and he hauled the frames and mattresses up the stairs, and they ended up leaning against the wall until we got around to putting them up.

    When I took the mattress off the wall to sleep on it, I noticed something curious. A little bug, placidly climbing up the wall. Stolidly – almost stoically. He didn’t have any wings, so there was no way he could attain the heights he clearly hoped for without walking. He was the veritable Lillian Alling of bugs.

    “Lillian Alling” was little and brown and very scary, so I screamed. Then I realized how little he actually was and got a hold of myself, got rid of it, and didn’t think much of it . . .

    . . . until the next day. Baptiste and I finally got around to putting the frames together, and I noticed little black spots on mine. Suddenly, another scary brown bug darted out of one of the joints. He met his death by “end of a pen,” as I inadvertently smeared him all over the place.

    I still didn’t think anything of it, but I was paranoid about having pests so just out of curiosity the next time I was hooked up the internet I looked up what bed bugs looked like . . . you know, just in case I ever had to deal with them.

    I think you can probably see where this is going.

    Turns out that little black spots on your furniture are bed bug poop, which is actually digested human blood. That smear sustained at my hand – er, pen – was probably half digested blood.

    I should have known something was up when the first part of the name of the guy I bought the beds from was “Thug.” Won’t be making that mistake again.

    The rest of the story is that we had to deal with them fast, so I called the super.

    “Uh, hi? Yeah, so remember how I made such a big deal out of the apartment not having pests? And how I promised I would be a really good tenant. Yeah, well, I mean, this is really embarrassing, and I know we only signed the lease two days ago, but I found a bed bug!!!!!!!! And it’s all my fault because I brought them in. Please help!”

    I was hoping that the super would say something like, “Oh, well, I’m sorry to hear that Kate, but it happens. Just let me wave my magic wand and the exterminator will be there in two minutes. We have a protocol for this because it’s just so common and anybody could be affected. In fact, bed bugs are like STIs – no matter whose bed you end up in, it could happen to you. Even just one time! They might not even know they’re infected! It’s totally not your fault.”

    He actually said, “Oh. Let me call the landlord. Are you sure it was a bed bug?”

    I said, “Yes. I’m dead sure.”

    “Well, we’ve never had these before, so I don’t know what to tell you. Except don’t take anything out of the apartment because you don’t want to scatter them in the hallways and infect other units.”

    Having already brought the beds all the way up the stairs (we live on the top floor) I gulped inwardly.

    “I’m very very sorry,” I said, overwhelmed by a wave of embarrassment.

    To be continued…

    In the meantime, here are some facts from the infinitely reliable sources of the internet and my own experience.

    Only 70% of people react to bed bug bites.

    It is best not to get bed bugs on a long weekend, because you have to wait that much longer for extermination.

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