All posts tagged Turkey Travel Tips

  • If You Want to Go Shopping in Turkey, Consider Europe Instead

    I swear, the pantyhose are made of real silk!

    Before moving to Turkey, I almost always shopped online. I loved getting exactly what I wanted, not having to go anywhere, being able to judge the quality of my prospective purchases by the reviews of people who have already hacked through the jungle of the internet, contracted the tropical fever of buyer’s remorse, and learned the strange tongues of the savage online merchant.

    Online shopping in Turkey is much less popular than in Canada, which means that if you need something, you must usually perform the unpleasant task of searching brick and mortar stores until you find it. If being forced to spend time doing that isn’t bad enough, Turkish salespeople often make it worse.

    My defense mechanism is to just not go shopping if I can help it, but as Adem and I got married in the winter, I did need to buy a few things. The first was a shawl to go over my dress. I hoped to buy something wool as it might be suitably warm for going outside in a Turkish winter. Adem and I went downtown to look in the shops. We spotted one that sold scarves and asked the merchant if he had any made of wool.

    “Sure,” he said and pointed. “Right there.”

    Just by looking, I could tell that the scarf was not wool. The fabric was glossy and a bit plasticky. Further investigation revealed a tag that said, “100% polyester.”

    “This is polyester,” said Adem to the merchant after I showed him the tag.

    “Oh,” said the merchant. “It’s polyester mixed with wool.”

    “But this says 100% polyester,” said Adem.

    “Well it got mixed up with the others,” said the merchant.

    “The others are also polyester,” said Adem after glancing at the rest of the tags.

    We walked on, shaking our heads.

    A few days later, I went to Sephora to buy a lipstick for the wedding.

    A saleslady approached. “Can I help you?” she asked.

    “Yes,” I said. “I’m getting married soon and I’m looking for a lipstick that is close to the natural colour of my lips, but will make them more visible in pictures.”

    The saleslady led me to the Estee Lauder section and proposed a colour. Even by Sephora standards, it was expensive.

    “Or,” said the saleslady as I grimaced indecisively, “the colour I’m wearing could be very nice as well.”

    The saleslady’s lipstick was so dark it was almost black. It could not have been further from what I’d asked for.

    “No thank you,” I said. “I’m looking for something more natural looking.”

    Then, I asked her if there were any cheaper brands I could try.

    She said, “All the lipsticks here are this expensive.”

    Since I am too good at wasting time and not making my exit when I should, I asked, “what about the store brand?”

    “Oh,” said this lady a bit tersely. “I didn’t realize you considered the store brand a possibility.”

    I allowed myself to be dragged over to the store brand shelf but left without buying anything after the lady, again, showed me an array of colours that were the opposite of what I’d asked for and then did not suggest we look at other, cheaper, non-Estee Lauder lipsticks which were displayed in brightly coloured rows all over the store.

    That same week, Adem and I bought wedding rings. I asked the jeweler if mine could be made in rose gold.

    “Of course,” he said. “The rings will be ready in a few days.”

    A few days later, we went to pick them up. As promised, Adem’s was yellow gold, and mine was rose.

    Six weeks after the wedding, both the rings were yellow gold. For some reason, rather than making mine in solid rose gold, they had only plated it … without telling us.

    We went back to the store to complain.

    “Oh,” said the jeweler. “Rose gold as a material doesn’t exist, so it’s not possible to have rose gold jewelry that isn’t plated. You know. You wash the dishes, you do housework with it, and that’s what happens. It wears off.”

    Adem is a peaceful guy, and my Turkish isn’t good enough to really stick my claws in someone, which is maybe for the best since the mental insults I was slinging would have made Satan himself blush.

    Here is a G version of those insults:

    LIES! LIEESSS!!! LIESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOUR MOM WAS AN INCOMPETENT PARENT!!!!

    They offered to replate the ring for free, which we did because I was too stunned to say or do anything else. Three weeks later, it is now quite robustly yellow, again.

    Turkey has bigger problems than this of course, but these kinds of mundane dishonesties are just so frustrating in the day-to-day.

  • Turkish Travel Tips III: Save Money by Staying at a Turkish Budget Hotel

    For those who made it through my ode to the Turkish budget hotel and were left wanting more, here is my step-by-step guide to checking in at a Turkish budget hotel.

    Turkish Budget Hotel

    General Tips

    1. Do not reserve a hotel online in Turkey. Many budget hotels do not have websites. The ones that do will charge you inflated prices if you book online because they know that foreigners from North America and Western Europe are not used to bartering cultures and will happily pay the quoted price because it seems cheaper than the cost of hotels in their country. If you are worried that there may not be space in a given city (you are a large party, it is a holiday in Turkey, or it is high season in a popular area for tourists), try calling the hotel instead and bargaining over the phone. You are still likely to pay a higher price, but nothing like you would have paid using a site like Booking.com
    2. Ask to see the room before you pay. Often, lobbies will appear nicer than the rooms to coax visitors to shell out more cash. This strategy will also prevent them from sticking you in the worst room in the place, which is usually small and/or windowless. Checking the room is also a good way to gauge whether the hotel might secretly be a brothel.
    3. Breakfast is always included in Turkish hotels. If they try to charge you extra for breakfast, make an angry face and find another hotel. Note: This does not apply to campsites.
    4. In places that don’t see a lot of foreign tourists, hotels are cheaper. In Iznik or Konya, for example, what you can get for the same price is a lot better than in Istanbul or Izmir. Adjust your expectations accordingly.
    5. Test the internet before you decide to stay somewhere. Budget hotel internet connections can be iffy, but they don’t have to be. You can probably get a hotel for the same price with a good internet connection, so unless you are trying to go off the grid for a bit, I suggest finding a place where the internet works. Then you can show your friends your mad cockroach exterminating skills over Skype.

    Bargaining Tips

    1. To bargain most effectively I would suggest saying, “this is very expensive!” in Turkish. To do this, say, “Çok pahalɪ ya! (Choke pa-HAL-euh yah) as though you’re reproaching the hotel receptionist for suggesting you murder a baby. Then laugh coquettishly, as if his desire to get money out of you is roguishly charming.

    Seriously. It works like a charm.

    After this, see how low they’ll go before you quote a price, because if you quote one they might agree quickly, and you’ll have overpaid. After the lowest price they quote, quote a price 5 or 10 lira lower. You might get it, you might not, but it’s worth a try.

    1. Don’t ask for prices if there is another foreigner anywhere in the vicinity. Hotel staff know that it will look bad if you get a room for 50 lira while that clueless tourist from Texas paid 150 lira. Be discreet.
    2. Peek over the counter. Often, Turkish hotels have a register book that documents how much each guest is paying for his room. If you can manage to do it discreetly it’s a great, though perhaps slightly unethical, way to gauge a reasonable price for the hotel.
    3. You can negotiate a better price per night if you play to stay several nights at the same hotel. A hotel may be willing to give you a room for 50 lira for one night, 90 lira for two nights, 120 lira for three nights, and so on. If you’re staying in the same city for a while, this is a great way to bargain too. So for example, ask the price for one night. Once you’ve got that the lowest you can go, (for the sake of argument, we’ll say it’s 50 lira) then ask, “Okay, can I pay 120 lira for three nights?”

    What if I want to spend even less money?

    When I say “budget hotel” I am actually talking about mid-low range hotels. Bottom of the barrel hotels exist too, and can be worth it if you are really travelling on a shoe-string. You may, however, be forced to compromise in the areas of internet access, hot water, or air conditioning. Make sure you ask what is included in the price. If I weren’t a single woman travelling alone, I would definitely check some of these places out.

    But bargaining makes me uncomfortable!

    Too true! If, like me, you’re not from a bargaining culture, bargaining can be exhausting. I struggle with feelings of guilt because I am paying pennies for services that would be expensive back home.

    Sometimes you might not feel like it, and that’s okay. For spending a week in Istanbul, it’s not a huge deal. However, if you’re really on a budget or spending an extended period of time in Turkey, I recommend it. Do remember that purchasing power in Turkey is different; $25 will go a lot further than it will in Western Europe and North America.

    The other thing is, as one Turkish friend explained to me, in touristy areas demand from the wealthy (Western Europeans and Gulf Arabs) drives up the prices which locks Turkish people out of the market. So if you’re looking for a good reason to bargain, this is it.

    That being said, remember that it’s just money. If you overpay a few times it’s not the end of the world. While I’m never happy when I know that somebody is intentionally trying to get money out of me just by virtue of my nationality, I also think that generosity never goes out of style. Do your best to straddle the fine line between being a scrooge and being savvy.

    photo by:
  • Turkish Travel Stories: An Ode to the Turkish Budget Hotel

    Most travellers to Turkey will overspend when it comes to lodging, and for a long time I was one of them. But no longer, my friends! Through an unhappy accident, I discovered the Turkish budget hotel, and now I am joyously sleeping in less-than-clean cigarette-scented guest houses! This is my story.

    At the beginning of my first summer in Turkey, I was invited to stay with somebody that I’d met when I was there a few months before. Unfortunately, early into my stay, he got a phone call.

    “I’m so sorry,” he said. “That was my dream job calling. They want me for an interview tomorrow in Ankara. You can’t be here! I need to practice for my interview! I need to concentrate! I simply can’t blow it when I’m so close to achieving my dreams!”

    Rather than directing me to a hotel in the town where we were, he drove me to the bus station and said, “Go back to Izmir, take another bus to Basmane. There are lots of cheap hotels there. You can find something for around $25.”

    During the day, this probably wouldn’t have been a problem. However, by the time I got to Izmir, which was still strange and unknown territory at the time, it was already 10 p.m., and dark. I didn’t know where I was going, the family I was staying with was out of town, and I felt completely overwhelmed. Maybe my ex-friend’s directions were easy for a Turkish person to follow, and I think this was his assumption. But I was a foreign girl, alone, in the dark, in a strange city, and I didn’t speak Turkish yet.

    Then suddenly, like a mirage of a lush wadi in a scorching desert, a hotel appeared, complete with angelic music and all the other trappings of cartoon-like apparitions. Unfortunately, it looked expensive. A lot more expensive than $25. Confronted with the sudden choice between continuing on to Basmane and shelling out incredible amounts of cash to stay next to the bus station, I decided that the next best course of action was to burst into tears.

    “Why are you crying?” said the man next to me. I had to look down because he was only four and a half feet tall. “Are you okay? Did something happen. Do you need a place to stay? I’m flying out to London tomorrow morning, but I’m staying with my uncle and auntie tonight. If you’re in a bad spot, you could come and stay with us for a night. Don’t worry, I’m a good boy.”

    I did one of those hysterical laugh-sobs, because even if he hadn’t been a good boy, the fact that he was four and a half feet tall might have been a bit of an impediment to any rapey ambitions he might have had.

    I was pretty sure he wasn’t lying, and I was grateful. Unfortunately for him, I felt like being alone after the events of the day, and after a moment’s deliberation, I said, “Thank you very much – that’s so kind of you. I’m going to go to that hotel and ask them how much it costs, because I think I need to be alone right now.”

    I marched over to the hotel, walked into the lobby, and said, “How much does a room cost here?”

    The man behind the counter said, “150 lira.” ($75 American dollars, at the time.)

    Even this was a bit rich for my blood, so I heaved a sigh and made as if to blow that traveller-cheating popsicle stand and head to Basmane after all.

    The guy took a closer look at my puffy eyes, and said, “Ok. 100 lira.”

    What? Did the price just go down 50 lira?! That’s 25 dollars! And I hadn’t even been trying to bargain.

    100 lira was more like it. Even though I could probably have bargained more, I was exhausted and willing to spend the extra money to feel safe.

    “I’ll take it,” I said.

    Then I noticed a sign behind the counter. One night: 80 Euros ($120 USD)

    In that moment, I realized something. With the exception of large hotel chains like the Hilton, Turkish hotel owners actually just pull prices out of thin air based on how full the hotel is and what they guess travellers are willing to pay. This would not be the first time I witnessed this. Turkish hotels often post terribly inflated prices behind the counter in the hopes that unsuspecting tourists will just take a look and shell out their hard-earned cash.

    So here is the #1 rule of Turkish hotels for your personal edumification: You can bargain, and you should.

    Armed with my new knowledge, I took a bus to Basmane the next morning to find myself a cheaper place to stay.

    Eventually, I figured out about how nice a hotel that costs 25 dollars is supposed to be: not very nice. However, I have low standards for my hotels. They must be safe, they must have internet and air-conditioning, and they must not secretly be brothels.

    Mistakenly checking in to a brothel is a real concern. Signs include dirty sheets and televisions that only play porn.

    Unlike in Canada, in reputable Turkish hotels, you can’t simply bring a member of the opposite sex up to your room. If you try this, especially with a Turkish man, hotel staff will give him the stinky eye and block his way. This is a good clue that the hotel isn’t a brothel.

    Beware, however. Even if a budget hotel passes the not-a-brothel test, it may not be totally clean. In one hotel I stayed in, the toilet water was artfully garnished with a few cigarette butts. When I mentioned this to the man behind the front desk, he shrugged and said, “The cleaning lady must have forgotten them or something,” and went back to his work.

    At the beginning of my time in Turkey, I would have been bothered by this. By that point, however, Turkey had started to rub off on me, so I just laughed and went back upstairs. I only paid 22 dollars, and I got free breakfast with that. The next day, the same man asked me how I slept. I said, “the cockroaches were a nice touch.” He laughed, and so did I.

    Despite these gross details, I do recommend the Turkish budget hotel for budget travellers. They are not usually as sparklingly clean as hotels in Canada, but I don’t let it bother me unless it’s not even passably clean. You get a private room that you might not get at a hostel or couchsurfing, and sometimes it’s just nice to have a little time to regroup in your own (albeit temporary) space.

    Stay tuned next time for a step-by-step guide to checking into a Turkish budget hotel.

  • Turkish Culture II: Ankara is SO BORING

    Ankara is the capital city of Turkey, and if I had one lira for every time a Turkish person has told me that it is a boring hellhole, I could buy a plane ticket from Ankara back to Istanbul. For a long time it was a mystery to me how nearly all Turkish people could feel such unbridled hatred for their capital city, so I decided to go there to learn what none of the fuss was about.

    To be honest, Ankara is a fairly inoffensive city with some nice trees and one huge mausoleum (on which more some other time). But okay. My Turkish friends were right. After admiring the trees and the mausoleum, there’s nothing in particular to do.

    IMG_2665

    In Ankara, there are some trees.

    A friend of mine and I have a pact to send each other postcards from the worst most uninspiring areas of the world that we can find, so as soon as I discovered how right everybody was about Ankara’s things-to-do scene, I went on the postcard hunt. Finding myself in a huge underground bookstore, I soon realized that, not only do Turkish people hate Ankara, they do not even consider it exciting enough to make postcards about.

    That’s bad. Even Ottawa has postcards.

    As luck would have it, I spied a teetering pile of dusty secondhand paperbacks and wondered if I could find some funny covers to rip off and use instead.

    IMG_2693

    On the left, ‘fiery nights.’ On the right, ‘what women want.’

    I was not disappointed. The paperbacks turned out to be Turkish-language Harlequins from the 1990s. Not only did they do their duty as postcards, they confirmed that people in Ankara get up to the same thing as people in boring cities everywhere.

    Suddenly overcome, I wiped a single tear from my eye. From Margaree, Nova Scotia (which, believe it or not, is more boring than Ankara) to Ankara Turkey, one thing transcends the manifold cultures of humankind: where there is nothing to do there is always at least one thing to do.

    But seriously, if you’re planning a trip to Turkey, don’t go to Ankara. I’m not sure if the faint possibility of a fiery night is worth the trouble.

  • Turkish Travel Tips II: Speaking Bad German in Turkey is Better than Speaking Bad Turkish

    german flagOne thing that I learned in Turkey is that speaking German in Turkey might actually be more useful than speaking Turkish.

    Although I tried my very best to pass as Turkish, something about my ginger hair, milky white skin, and battered green backpack seemed to alert people to the fact that I am not from their country.

    This was not usually a problem, except when it came to communication. For some reason, even though my Turkish is about 1000 times better than my German, people assume that because I am from the West, German would naturally make more sense as a communicative tool. In fact, at least once a week somebody refused to accept that I don’t speak German and doggedly continued telling me their life story as I gazed uncomprehendingly at their face and make small noises of protestation in Turkish or English.

    When I tried to buy a bus ticket:

    Me: Bilet Izmir’e almak istiyorum. I would like to buy a ticket to Izmir.

    Ticket Agent: Ah, maalesef Almanca bilmiyorum. Ah, Unfortunately, I don’t speak German. Here is my colleague, the handsome and multilingual Berk.

    Berk: Hallo. Ich spreche Deutsch. Sprechst du Deutsch? Ich liebe Deutsch sprechen! Hi. I speak German. Do you speak German? I LOVE speaking German!

    Me: Errr, etwas. Nein. Hayir. Almanca bilmiyorum. Türkcem Almancam’dan çok daha iyi. Izmir’e gidiyorum. Biletler var mɪ? Er, a bit? No. No. I don’t speak German. My Turkish is much better than my German. I’m going to Izmir. Do you have tickets?

    Berk: Ich wohne in Berlin, aber meine Familie wohne in Kuşadasɪ. Einkaufen. Rauchen. Apfel. Flughaven. I live in Berlin, but my family lives in Kuşadasɪ . . . he continues in German as I stare at his face blankly.

    Me: Almancam yok. İngilizce konuşabilirim. Ne zaman otobus Izmir’e gidiyor? Lütfen, bilet alabilir miyim? I have no German. I speak English. When does the bus to Izmir go? Please, can I buy a ticket?

    Berk: Fünf Uhr. Ich habe ein Haus in Munich. Schwester. Lederhosen. Tankwart. Five o’clock. I have a house in Munich . . . and so on in German.

    Me: İngilizce biliyorum. Fransizce biliyorum. Turkçe az biliyorum. Almanca yok yok YOK. I speak English. I speak French. I speak some Turkish. I have NO German WHATsoever.

    Berk: Hands me ticket.

    Me: Sağ olun. Çok teşekkürler. Iyi günler. Thanks. Thanks very much. Have a nice day!

    Berk: Kein Problem!

    When the internet stops working in my coffee shop 

    Me: Çok pardon. Internet yok. Internet çalɪşmɪyor. Excuse me! I’m very sorry! There’s no internet. The internet’s not working.

    Barista: İngilizce bilmiyorum. I don’t speak English.

    Me: Not a problem, because I am speaking to you in Turkish! And for the love of all that is good, I know my accent’s not that bad.

    Barista: Bakar mɪsɪnɪz! İngilizce, Almanca biliyor musunuz? Excuse me! Does anybody in the café speak English or German?

    Person in the café: Hallo. Ich spreche Deutsch! Ich liebe Deutsch sprechen! Die Toilette suchen Sie? Well hello! I speak German! I LOVE speaking German! Are you looking for the washrooms?

    Me: Nein. Tuvaletinizi istemiyorum. Internet çalɪşmɪyor. Anladɪnɪz mɪ? No. I don’t want the washroom.The internet isn’t working. Do you understand?

    Person in the café: Die Toilette ist nach oben. The toilet is upstairs.

    photo by:
  • Turkish Travel Tips: Public Transport and the Humble Dolmuş

    The humble minibus, or dolmuş (dol-MOOSH), as it is known in Turkish is, for most tourists to Turkey, a gem hiding in plain sight.

    This is a dolmuş. They always have their destinations written on the front, but if you're going somewhere in between, just ask the driver.

    This is a dolmuş. They always have their destinations written on the front, but if you’re going somewhere in between, just ask the driver.

    If somebody put a gun to my head and said, “you have two minutes to give people one piece of advice for travelling to Turkey!”, I would tell them how to use a dolmuş.

    Public transit in Turkey is inexpensive and effective, at least compared to most cities in Canada. The country is fairly densely populated, and many people do not make enough money to own cars. Most tourists will be familiar with much of Turkey’s public transport equipment: taxis, buses, intercity buses, airplanes, subways, and even trams function the same way as they do in Western countries.

    But the dolmuş. Ah, the dolmuş. Ignored by the average tourist to Turkey who simply has no idea what on earth those things are, and how one might go about using them. Maligned by . . . nobody really because nobody knows what they are. Spit on by . . . ok, never mind.

    I had to do something about this lack of dolmuş-education, so without further ado, here is a crash course on dolmuş travel.

    A dolmuş is a large van that goes from one place to another on a set route. Depending on the destination, they may go as frequently as every ten minutes, or as infrequently as once per hour. They may start early in the morning, and end late at night, or they may just operate during the daytime.

    To get one, go to your nearest bus or dolmuş station, and look at the destinations listed on the fronts. You can also hail a passing dolmuş by flailing your hands in the air and trying to get the attention of the driver. The way most Turkish people do it is by raising their right arm in a Sex and the City style taxi hailing motion. Yelling “dolmuş!” and tottering around on stilettos is optional.

    This is the dolmuş station at Fahrettin Altay in Izmir. At some stations, including this one, the destinations are printed on signs, but usually you have to ask.

    This is the dolmuş terminal at Fahrettin Altay in Izmir. At some stations, including this one, the destinations are printed on signs, but usually you have to ask.

    When you hail a dolmuş, it will stop and the driver will open the doors. If he passes you and isn’t going too fast, yell. “Şoför bey! Durunuz!” (Chauffeur bay! Dur-oo-nooz.) Mr. Driver, stop! It doesn’t always work, but usually the other passengers or other people on the street will see you and alert the driver.

    The next step is to make sure the dolmuş is going to your destination. Do this by saying the name of the place you’re going. You can get fancier, but if you’re just a tourist, they’ll understand. If the driver says “Hah,” or “Evet,” you’re good to go. If he tuts or says “Hayir,” or “Yok,” then you’ve got the wrong one.

    After you’ve made sure that the dolmuş is going to your destination, you can hop into the typically body-odour scented interior. Often the doors will stay open as you speed along the highway, having hopefully settled yourself into a chair, though if it is already full by the time it picks you up, you’re going to have to stand. Try to hold on so you don’t fall out. You’ll look very cool. Like a local!

    After you get on, have a glance at the fare chart, and give some money at the driver. Even if he is driving, he will accept it and give you the right amount of change. If you cannot get to the front, just pass the money to the person in front of you, and he or she will pass it to the driver. Make sure you say your destination, otherwise the driver will say something to you in Turkish that you probably won’t understand, but which in all likelihood means “How many, and where are you going?”

    Then you can say, for example, “bir, otogara gidiyorum.” One. I’m going to the bus station. Cross your fingers that he hasn’t actually said, “I’m driving a one way route to the hairiest part of Satan’s ass-crack. Welcome aboard!”

    I have heard tell that, technically, dolmuşes are not supposed to carry more passengers than they have seats. I have never seen this enforced, but apparently in certain parts of cities, cops lurk in wait of dolmuş drivers who let this happen as though the arm of the law means nothing to them. When this happens, the driver will tell all the passengers to duck. Everybody who’s standing has to duck lower than the windows until the danger is past. If you notice others ducking don’t hesitate – duck with them! Don’t worry. You’re only disobeying the law, and in Turkey, nobody cares.

    Dolmuşes make it easy to go anywhere in Turkey more quickly than if you rely solely on inter-city bus travel, and are easy to use. Despite the body odour, it’s a treat to have access to effective public transport. Unfortunately, it’s not always possible to check for dolmuşes online, so if you are going anywhere a bit off the beaten track in Turkey, and you suspect it is only serviced by dolmuş from where you are, I would suggest consulting a Turkish person who lives in that area. If you’re worried about finding somebody who speaks English, ask at a hotel.

    Bang. You just saved yourself money you could have spent on a taxi, and you managed to experience Turkey like a local for one whole ride.