All posts tagged Turkish Dress

  • Islamic Coverings in Turkey: Women, Young Girls, and Economics

    During my first trip to Trkey in 2014, I was surprised to see few women sporting Islamic coverings. Although public transit was plastered with advertisements for silk hijabs sported by smiling women wearing shiny trench coats and coordinated makeup, the street itself was relatively bare of covered women. In retrospect, the fact that I spent all my time around the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque explains my experience; touristic neighbourhoods are typically only frequented by foreign women since Turkish women understand that the shops and restaurants there are overpriced and the salesmen typically lecherous and inappropriately bold.

    The following summer, I moved to Izmir. Izmir, by Turkish standards, is remarkably liberal – a repository of the deification of Ataturk and his doctrine of secularism. In Izmir, bikini-clad ladies roam the beaches and barely-there sparkly dress-clad women roam the nightclubs (before returning home each night to save their virginity for marriage.) Wearing a hijab in Izmir was an act of rebellion, not a capitulation to a ruling social morality. Even my erstwhile boss, a self-professed Muslim from a more conservative city in the south eschewed it. “No, the hijab is not very good. Anyway the way women wear it these days, it is not modest!” she wailed to me once. “If you wear the hijab for modesty, you shouldn’t also wear makeup!” She showed me a picture on her phone of a Facebook friend of hers, smirking shiny red lips at the camera over a sumptuous meal, an orange hijab of expensive fabric carefully arranged atop her head. “See?” she said. “This woman is wearing so much makeup. She looks not modest.”

    My more recent forays into Turkey have allowed me to see a third snapshot of Turkish culture. I now live in a mixed neighbourhood of Istanbul. Here, Turkish students and Turkish and Syrian families of varying levels of conservatism live together. In my neighbourhood, it is a bad idea to eat in public during Ramadan. Shorts are a fairly rare sight on both men and women, even in the heat of summer. About 50% of women wear some sort of head covering, from the hijab paired with jeans and a long-sleeved t-shirt to the face-covering niqab styled with matching long flowing black robes.

    I’m told that there has been a shift towards covering in recent years – that in the olden days of 20 years ago, women who covered typically only did so following marriage and usually simply tied a scarf loosely over their hair. The new style of more intense covering has been blamed variously on the government, the government, the government, and Arab influence coming in from Syria and the Gulf, a typhoon (apparently) blowing the winds of conservative political Islam Turkey’s way. Of course, these are only the perspectives of the ultra-liberal mostly-Marxist couche sociale that I find myself a part of – it’s not exactly easy for me to gather other perspectives because the people who have them aren’t in the habit of talking to foreigners like me and, as I don’t attend school or work in Turkey, I have equally few opportunities to talk to them.

    The prevalence of Islamic covering in Turkey presents an intellectual conundrum for me. As a feminist, I support a woman’s right to wear what she wants. I’m not so blind to the fact that women are presented with many similar messages in the West as they are in Turkey – you should be sexy, but also not sexy. If you’re too sexy, people won’t take you seriously. If you’re not sexy, people won’t think you’re attractive. You should wear makeup to look nice, but not too much because there’s a possibility that people won’t find you attractive if it’s too much. They could also find you too attractive and then it will be your fault if they come onto you inappropriately. You should exercise and keep in shape – but God forbid that a man see the outline of your butt in yoga pants because he might get a boner or talk about seeing your butt to his friends. You shouldn’t care about what men think of you and you should wear what you want for yourself. But be sure that it’s sexy enough to be attractive and modest enough so that nobody can question your character. And don’t forget women. Women are the arbiter of what society thinks too, so if they think you’re not dressing correctly – well, you shouldn’t care, but make sure you’re sexy enough for women to compliment you, but not sexy enough to make their partners be attracted to you.

    But back to the hijab. As a Westerner, I’ve always had a live and let live relationship with the hijab. In Canada, whenever I see one I think one of these things:

    “I just remembered I forgot to buy dish soap.”

    “Oh, a woman wearing hijab.”

    “That must be so warm in winter.”

    “How does she make it look like a turban? How do the pins stay in place? I wonder if they can prick you by mistake, or are there safety pins specifically for hijabs that you can buy?”

    “Is that really all her real hair under that thing?”

    “She could be wearing it for so many reasons – it could be because she wants to express her religion outwardly. Or because it’s a way to publicly express her identification with her culture. Or maybe because her family wants her to. Or maybe she didn’t wash her hair today.”

    In short, I tend to make the assumption of a more-or-less free choice, or a choice that, at the very least, is just as free as the choice I and many Western women make to dress in ways that tread the brutal line between being attractive and being the sort of person one takes seriously.

    This live and let live attitude came with me during my first months in Turkey, and I ardently argued for my perspectives to secularist friends and acquaintances, probably to their great annoyance. After more time spent in the country, however, my perception of the hijab in Turkey has changed; I now understand that pressures to dress a certain way go beyond society and enter many strata of government. To hear my friends tell it, a certain level of conservatism is practically a requirement if you have your eye on a good post in government, and a post in government is like being thrown onto an island of job stability while other Turks drown in the treacherous sea of the Turkish economy. So, while I still affirm an adult woman’s right to wear what she wants, the social pressure that exists in Turkey to dress in a way that covers your body is bothersome to me because the more pressure there is, the less choice a woman actually has.

    What bothers me even more is when I see prepubescent girls who are already covered. I have seen a few girls around the age of eight. My sister-in-law told me she once saw a covered little girl around the age of 5. I’m no Muslim theologian, and I haven’t thoroughly studied what Muslim scholars say about Islamic modesty’s links to (female) sexuality. However, this lack of profound knowledge notwithstanding, I do understand that popular perception holds that the hijab is about hiding the body and sexuality or (more generously) about seeing a woman for virtues that have nothing to do with her body and sexuality. So whenever I see young girls with heads already covered, I can’t help but resent the implicit sexualization of the young girl’s body.

    If I’ve learned one thing from feeling frustrated about people who cover their children or people who refuse to admit that the hijab isn’t as free a choice as it could be, it is this: engaging another culture can present real and serious difficulty to people with a particular notion of ethics, morality, and what is good for people; it is not as simple as just “respecting” somebody else’s culture. Sometimes, differing beliefs can even motivate the essentially altruistic behaviour of trying to change something about a culture (although, of course this may not be perceived positively by the culture one is trying to change.) Even though I say nothing when I see eight-years-olds wearing hijab, I feel suddenly empathetic for the bad guy “orientalists” and “missionaries” and “colonists” of history, not because I think all their actions can be justified, but because I understand what it feels like to see something in another culture and believe that it’s basically wrong.

    When do we have the right to try to change something? Or to make a moral call? Does anybody have any ideas that are better than mine?

    **To be very clear: I believe that adult women should be able to make the free choice to cover or uncover. I also believe that implicit sexualisation of young girls and being forced to cover for economic and other unavoidable reasons is wrong.

  • Hallowe’en, Turkey, and the (Urban) Legend of the Golden Arm

    My second-grade teacher Mr. Moore was a short man in his fifties who tied his ties, which he wore every day without fail, so tightly that his neck protruded redly over his shirt collar. He drew his ‘1’s so that they resembled typography instead of lowercase ‘L’s and taught us about alphabetical order, the weather, and how heart disease and stroke worked. In one lesson, I remember him explaining that the reason humans have a will to live is because they have a soul. A second later, he admitted that he wouldn’t be able to answer any questions about the souls of plants even though they were alive, too. I was fascinated.

    Mr. Moore worked in a school where about half of the children wouldn’t graduate from high school and where only one in ten attended university (and three out of the four kids from my year who went to university left the community before they turned 14.) And yet, in the midst of all the difficulties he surely met as an educator in such a situation, he still managed to spark the philosophically sophisticated question of whether plants have souls or any motivation to stay alive in my seven-year-old mind. I loved Mr. Moore when I was seven and I still have a lot of respect for the kind of teacher he was, a man who educated well despite the incredible difficulties most of his students faced.

    One fine October 31st in the 1990s, all the children came to school extra excited, for it was the day of Hallowe’en. Mr. Moore dressed up for the holiday in his signature fashion, with a tie that sported a large plastic Frankenstein head, tied predictably too tight. After teaching us how to spell Hallowe’en (with an apostrophe between the two ‘e’s, a habit I have never been able to shake even as standard usage has evolved to favour the other spelling), we sat on mats around Mr. Moore’s imposing wooden chair for story-time, a time of day usually reserved for the reading-aloud of timeless children’s classics such as Dav Pilkey’s Captain Underpants. Except – except that this wasn’t any ordinary story-time. This time, Mr. Moore held no paperback within his fingers. I held my breath.

    He began, “Once upon a time, there lived a woman with a golden arm.” I’ve forgotten the exact details of his telling, but I remember that the golden-armed woman eventually died. Realizing (rather logically, I must admit) that a dead person has little use for an arm made of solid gold, a thief nicked the priceless prosthesis from the woman’s corpse.

    The woman of the erstwhile golden arm did not agree that she had little use for a golden arm and came back to haunt the thief. Mr. Moore held us tight to our mats as he recounted how the woman’s ghost approached the robber’s home as she let out unearthly moans. “Where is my golden arm” Mr. Moore cried spookily as we stared at him wide-eyed. “Where is my golden arm?”

    BOO!

    We all jumped. The story didn’t continue and we never found out what happened to the thief or the armless ghost, but that wasn’t the point. We were good and terrified.

    Nearly twenty years later, I googled “golden arm” to see what would happen. I learned that Mr. Moore hadn’t made the story up, as I’d assumed. The story is a folk legend dating back at least two-hundred years and present in a number of different countries and cultures.

    Why was I googling this? Because I heard another morbid story about a golden arm of sorts, this time from Turkey and probably of more recent, although equally unknown, provenance.

    A few months ago, I was talking to a Turkish friend who was telling me that he’d gone to visit his mother and sister. “Did you talk about anything interesting?” I asked.

    “Yeah,” he said. “They were telling me that they went back to our hometown recently and saw a woman who was wearing bangles from her wrist to her elbow! Just to show that she had money, can you imagine? She was lucky she lived in small-town Turkey. If you tried something like that in Istanbul, somebody might cut off your arm to steal the gold!”

    Turkey is home to many jewelry stores that look exactly like this one, in and outside of tourist areas.

    Turkey is home to many jewelry stores that look exactly like this one, in and outside of tourist areas, and wearing gold bangles is definitely a ‘thing.’

    I’ve witnessed both ostentatious displays of wealth in Turkey and theft in Istanbul, so I didn’t really think much of the story besides, “That woman should consider a more diversified and less ostentatious investment portfolio.” And, embarrassingly, I allowed myself to believe that people in Istanbul had gotten their arms cut off for gold bangles.

    Two or three months later, I had another conversation with a different Turkish friend, this time about an equally morbid event – the 1999 earthquake in Izmit, a small city near Istanbul. “It was awful,” he said, “There were literally corpses everywhere. I still remember how it smelled. And I heard this story – I don’t know if it’s true, I mean, I believe it’s true – that there was a woman trapped under a building wearing an armful of gold bangles. And as she was calling, “help, help, help me get out from under this building” a man came by and cut her arm off for the gold bangles and then just left her there, trapped under the building.”

    We both paused to contemplate the horror of such a story.

    “Wait a second,” he said. “That doesn’t make sense.”

    “Yeah,” I said. “If she were trapped, they could have just taken the bangles. No arm cutting-off necessary.”

    “Also,” he said, “Turkish people are kind of nosy. Probably somebody would have come round and told him, ‘you’re an idiot! Don’t you realize that you can just take off the bangles in much less time than it takes you to saw off an arm?!’”

    “I mean,” I said, “even if you had a saw that could cut quickly like a chain saw or a skill saw, those tools are pretty cumbersome and usually need to be plugged in anyway. Guns are a more practical persuasive tactic if theft is your game . . . and the person is likely to make a lot less noise whether or not you shoot them.

    (Also, gunshots in Turkey are not necessarily the result of violence, and can just as easily go off in the joyful aftermath of a soccer match that your favourite team has won. If you hear a gunshot in Turkey, Turkish people will tell you not to look out the window because people have died from injuries due to stray celebration-bullets. Shooting a gun might actually make people less likely to investigate what you’re doing.)

    A day later, I googled every combination of Turkish and English words I could think of to try to find any reputable news article about anybody having their arm sawed off for gold bangles. I could not find anything. Zip. Zilch. Nada.

    I would love to be able to date this legend but, like the legend of the golden arm, I am afraid that the genesis of this story may be lost in the – insert ghostly sound effects here – mists of tiiii-iii—iiiime.

    photo by:
  • Culture Shock in Turkey: Seat Belts, Safety, and the Veil

    When I arrived in Izmir to meet the family I would be au pairing with, I saw Sermin* waiting at the terminal for me with her oldest son Adem. They didn’t see me come out of the terminal, so I said her name from behind her. She jumped, then asked if I’d been waiting long.

    Well, no. You probably would have seen me if I had.

    Walking out of the terminal, we performed all the usual pleasantries that accompany the greeting of someone who has been on a long trip. How was the flight? Good. Are you tired? Not so bad. Did you have any delays? No.

    We got in the car, and I got my first taste of culture shock in Turkey. For in this fine country, back seat passengers almost never wear seatbelts, and that includes children. In fact, since back seat passengers are more often children, it is especially the young uns who are at a risk of … you know … whiplash, concussions, instant death, and other fun stuff.

    Now if this were the end of it, it would not be a very good story. “Whatever,” you are probably saying, if you were born before 1975. “We didn’t wear seat belts when we were growing up, and we were fine. Ok, it’s better if you do, of course. But really, the only reason we ever do it is because there’s a law, and we’re from the West, so we follow the rules because that’s just what we do.

    “What the hell?” you are probably saying if you were born after 1975. “She really deserves the bad mother of the year award. I definitely wouldn’t let my kids play at her house. But you’ve got to stop making such a big deal about this. I mean, Turkey is a developing country. It’s in the Middle East. You should expect things like that.”

    I wish that were the end of it. Unfortunately, the excitement of having somebody new to show off to put Adem into overdrive, and before we knew it, he was using the backseat as a platform for his feet as he stuck his head out of the sunroof to taste the fresh air. His hair whipping around in the wind, his mouth open, he resembled a happy dog on the back roads of rural Canada riding in the back of a pickup and delighting in the feeling of fresh air on his taste buds. I briefly considered if I could teach him to say “I just laaahve the feeling of fresh air on my cilia,” in English, or if that would be a bit much to start with.

    The next day, we drove somewhere else, this time with the two oldest children in the car. As we sped down the highway at 130 km/h, the two boys rolled around in the backseat, trying to wrestle each other into being as far away from each other as possible.

    Counterproductive, I know. But nothing I did seemed to get this across.

    After that ride, I started sitting in the backseat of the car as well, and would just buckle their seat belts. This did not work well. The younger in particular once wrestled me for a full 30 minutes while he screamed his head off. His parents tried explaining to him calmly that this was the way it was with me, and they were going to call the police if he didn’t wear it. Alas, this approach was ineffective.

    At the end of this ordeal, we were a sweaty, unhappy mess, and I didn’t look forward to more performances of the kind.

    And there weren’t any . . . because I gave up. Perhaps I am deserving of the “worst babysitter of the year” award, but I just couldn’t go against Adem’s six and a half years of cultural conditioning.

    This whole ordeal is fairly representative of the way things are in Turkey. While laws are basically the same as they are in Canada, disobedience is much more socially acceptable. There is a sense in which I appreciate this – you can take alcohol to the park without anybody looking askance, whether or not you are drunk. There is no need to bring a paper bag or put it in a thermos, or any other tried-and-true underage drinking strategy. More often, however, I don’t appreciate this aspect of the culture. One time I was out with an acquaintance I’d met here. We went to grab some food, and after the meal the restaurant gave us small packets of wet wipes to clean out hands with. A minute after we left, he dropped his wet wipe. Assuming he’d done it by mistake, I just picked it up to throw in the nearest garbage can (which was about 20 metres in front of us.) He said, “Oh, don’t pick that up,” and I said, “no, it’s no problem at all.” Five metres later, he dropped the wrapper too, and I realized that he was just littering deliberately.

    I don’t want to say that this is representative of all Turkish people, because it’s not. But I will say that Turkey is a much less structured society than Canada. Whenever I buckle my seat belt in the backseat, people chuckle at me – because why would you do it if the cops can’t tell? Twice, in a pinch, I’ve gotten on driverless transit without paying within the sight of others and nobody even gave me the stinky eye.

    All that said, while societal structures that focus on safety are generally more lax here, other societal structures are not. For example, it’s been my experience that the way you dress is incredibly important, and if you don’t dress the “right” way, people make comments. Your shorts are too short? People talk behind your back. You’re veiled in Izmir, one of the most anti-veil cities in Turkey? Oh my gad, you shouldn’t be. That’s not very progressive. You’re wearing makeup with your veil? Well, aside from the fact that you’re veiled, which is problematic because of reasons, (the reason being, of course, that people in Izmir think of themselves as Westernized) the juxtaposition of your obvious face-painting immodesty when the veil is a symbol of modesty is a problem. And so on. The gaze of others is strong here, and is more stifling than any veil could be.