All posts tagged Yemen

  • The War in Yemen is Worse Than you Thought

    Warning: Links in this post contain disturbing pictures. Click at your own risk. 
    “My cousin’s husband is in prison. He’s an imam and one day, after the prayer, he told people to avoid certain neighbourhoods because they were dangerous. The police came and took him away to prison. You know Kate, we was not allowed to visit, but one day they were telling us that we can visit. So my wife make some food and we go to the prison, but they told us to come back the next day. So we went back the next day, and they told us again to come back the next day. We didn’t go back, because we knew they were lying. Maybe they moved him or something – I don’t know. Or maybe they were doing the thing, you know Kate, with the electric wire, you know put the electric wire on the foot and BLLZZHRT…”

    This was one of the earlier conversations I had with Hussein. The political situation in Yemen has always been a thread that runs through our discussions. Hussein brings it up like it’s the most normal thing in the world, before segueing on to other topics that are actually normal or maybe (like camel jumping) just a little bit weird.

    In our last conversation, he said, “You know Kate, things in Yemen is not so good right now.” He paused. This was the first time he’d said anything like this; he’d mentioned the war before, how his children cry during the bombings and how it’s impossible to go to Saudi Arabia to see relatives now, but always with a sort of incongruous cheerfulness. (Bedouin people traditionally roamed all throughout the desert between Saudi Arabia and Yemen. Hussein was even born in Saudi Arabia, but ultimately ended up with Yemeni citizenship while many of his close family members became Saudi Arabians).

    That day, Hussein’s cheerful demeanor seemed to have dimmed. The pause lasted for a few seconds as he shook his head.

    “But Kate!” he said, recovering himself “You know, I have neighbour and he is a Jewish. You know, Kate, there is no problem Muslim Jewish in Sanaa. No problem! Usually the Muslims are loving the Jewish and the Jewish are loving the Muslims. But the Jewish, you know they have a very old Torah. And there were some Muslims – not all Muslims, bad Muslims – they were trying to burn the Torah of the Jewish. So the Jewish, they wanted to bring the Torah to Israel. And –,” he looked gleeful, “I helped them!”

    Hussein works at the airport. I won’t give any more details because he’s asked that I don’t reveal his identity (as before, his name and a few other identifying details have been changed.) However, having access to the airport in Sanaa gives one a big advantage: namely, you can find ways to transport things in and out of Yemen. It’s not a privilege that many Yemenis have and it’s a privilege that seems to have kept Hussein and his family in good shape even while malnutrition and poverty ravage the country at rates that, by some estimates, are twice as high as they were before the war.

    “So yes, Kate” Hussein continued, “My neighbour – the Jewish – he said he would pay me but I didn’t take any money. I said I only needed the money to bribe the baggage handler! So I gave the baggage handler 500 USD and then pointed out which bag he shouldn’t check and then they got the bag to Jordan. I said that I couldn’t help them after Jordan, but they said it was fine. The Israel embassy would pick it up! So in Jordan, the Israeli embassy picked it up, and there are even some pictures of the Israeli prime minister reading the Torah!”

    He sent me a few photos.

    One of the pictures he sent. Source appears to be Breaking Israel News.

    One of the pictures he sent. Source appears to be Breaking Israel News.

    “Could the baggage handler see what was in the bag?” I asked. “He knew it wasn’t a bomb or something?”
    “Yes, of course. He knew it is not bomb. Anyway, Yemen doesn’t have a real government really, so no problem. No problem!”

    I made a mental note to myself that flying in or out of Yemen was to be done at my own risk. Not that that wasn’t already kind of obvious.

    “Anyway, it was good to take it out of Yemen because it would be bad to burn it.” Hussein continued, “And then after, all of the people who worked on the plane or who could have maybe smuggled the thing were taken to the police station. And they asked us if we knew anything and I said no. They let me go. Anyway, the man who asked me to help him – he is safe in Israel now so they can’t get him.”

    “Also Kate,” he said, “I just found out that my wife is – you know what is the thing when you have a baby?”

    “Pregnant?”

    “Yes! Pregnant. She is pregnant. She is starting to have some, you know, sickness. So she went to the doctor and the doctor said she is pregnant.”

    Immediately after we hung up, I googled the Torah only to learn that most of the remaining Jews in Yemen had made Aliyah to Israel around the same time, and that it was widely reported in the Jewish press that at least one or two people had gone to prison over the smuggling of the scroll. I didn’t see Hussein pop up on Skype the whole week, and started to worry. Had he been called back into the police station for a course of electric shock torture? Had his house been damaged and family crushed in airstrikes?

    I sent him a message on Skype. There was no answer.

    Two days later I sent him an e-mail and got a response. “Thank you Kate, we are fine. We can talk tomorrow, if you have time.”

    He rang me the next day, back to his normal jovial self. “I have a question for you Kate. You know, in Islam we are praying five times a day. In Christianity, what is the prayer schedule?”

    I stumbled through an explanation of how it was basically different for everybody and that the many Christian denominations are quite diverse.

    “Oh yes Kate! I am loving this word “diversity.” Thank you for teaching it to me! So you know, Kate, in Islam we have to pray five times per day. But you know, that is a lot. And you have to get up very early. Sometimes I do it … like once in one day. And sometimes just once a week! One time I asked a cleric man about this and he said that I had to pray five times per day. So I told him, ‘well, it is easy for you! You are cleric man. This is your job and you get paid for it. But me, I am busy!’ The cleric man, you know – well, he is a cleric – and he told me that maybe I would go to hell. But I don’t think that God would do that. He knows who is a good person and who isn’t a good person.”

    The conversation turned to Hussein’s other main vice, alcohol. “Okay, you know Kate,” said Hussein, “alcohol, it is not allowed in Islam. But you know, the reason it is not allowed is because maybe if you get drunk you will get angry and kill someone! I think this is kind of wrong because I don’t get angry, I get calm. Also Kate, whenever I am speaking English and I have drunk two or three beers, I am so good at speaking English! I am not even nervous. What about you? When you talk to people like me and correct them, I am not sure how you are patient. Maybe if you had a drink before you would be even more calm?”

    Before leaving, Hussein showed me a few bottles of olive oil from Jordan that he’d sourced through his aerial shipping networks. “Look Kate, these are some olive oil. I bought them for my neighbours because they are poor.”

    Very little has been written in the media about Yemen, though since I started talking to Hussein I’ve tried to stay abreast of the conflict. Food insecurity was one theme of the week; photographs of a starving five month old baby, skin stretched tight over tiny bones like a sick parody of an 80 year old man, lying in a Yemeni hospital before his death were plastered across one article, which stated that an estimated 1.3 million children are suffering from malnutrition in Yemen and that 10 of Yemen’s provinces are one classification away from “famine.” Not only that, malnutrition rates have apparently doubled since last year, largely due to a Saudi-led naval embargo.

    Another article this week: “Responsibility when it suits us,” (original article in French, all translations by me.) The article is about Canada’s foreign affairs policy and essentially states that the official position of the Canadian government is that, while we care about the human rights of our citizens, that shouldn’t prevent us from engaging with countries that don’t. Many of these countries are major global actors, and it would be irresponsible to ignore them.
    According to Stéphane Dion, it would be irresponsible to break a contract that we have to sell light armoured vehicles to Saudi Arabia because they are not respecting human rights in Yemen. To wit, Saudi Arabia is not simply targeting military targets, but has also bombed civilian neighbourhoods in Sanaa.
    I got angrier and angrier as I read through the article. Apparently, refusing to sell LAVs to Saudi Arabia could result in thousands of lost jobs and a loss to Canada’s credibility. That’s right – Canada might be perceived as a commercial partner incapable of keeping their word for refusing to sell arms to a country engaging in what are recognized by the UN as war crimes.

    I told Hussein about it. “I’m really ashamed to say this,” I said, “but Canada sells weapons to Saudi Arabia.”

    Hussein did not react the way I expected. “Kate! You know, this is just business! No problem! Just business!” An emphatic denial of what I consider distinctly unethical. Sure, having trade relations with Saudi Arabia might be okay if we were selling wheat or something, but selling weapons that would likely be used to perpetuate human rights abuses? Hussein didn’t agree with me, but that did not change my opinion.

    As Canadians, we are not just responsible when it suits us. In the face of over a million malnourished children, I daresay that Canada can lose 3000 jobs. Of course I recognize that Saudi Arabia is not the only actor in the war, but their entry into the conflict appears to have caused more problems than it’s solved.

    Hussein wasn’t done talking about bringing things across borders. “You know Kate,” he said, “in Yemen, we have the qat – you know, it is a drug and it is getting us high. But it is illegal in other countries. If you want to bring some to other countries you have to make it very dry and put it in teabags. Then they will look at it when you get to the other country and they will think, ‘this is only tea!’

    Paper giving an allure of legitimacy to a harmful substance. It seemed a darkly amusing metaphor for Canada’s contract with Saudi Arabia, but maybe that was just me.

    If you’re Canadian, letters protesting this can be addressed to

    The Honorable Stéphane Dion
    House of Commons
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Canada
    K1A 0A6

    Postage is not required. Simply drop your letter in the nearest post box.

    **By the way, if you’re American or French you sell even more arms to Saudi Arabia than Canadians. Please feel free to write to your appropriate representatives to protest your involvement.

  • There’s a War, There’s Bombardier, Grasshoppers with Mayonnaise are Subversive, and Other Things You May Not Have Known about Yemen

    After jet setting around the world on the hunt for edifying conversations, I turned out to be sitting in my room in Montreal when I met Hussein. I’d come back to Montreal hoping to finish my degree, read a bit more about the places I’d explored, bash out some more articles for my blog and for posterity, and work. I need a break from a constant barrage of new cultures and new history, just to process what I’d already learned. Or so I thought.

    Hussein and I met online soon after I came back to Canada. He messaged me one day on a website I spend time on to see if I was willing to help him practice his English. His website profile told me he was from “Yeman” and living in “Yeman.” I’d never met anybody from Yemen before, so I agreed to add him on Skype and see how it went.

    I’ve met a lot of people online this way, but Hussein was different. Our first meeting, he introduced me to his two toddlers, who waved through the camera at me and serenaded me with an enthused chorus of “habibi, habibi!” Hussein also introduced me to his wife, who waved politely and left quickly. After she was gone, he said, “My wife was not very friendly to you because she is jealous and doesn’t want me to learn English from a woman who is not veiled. I told her it was not a problem and that you love your boyfriend.”

    I started to feel uncomfortable. Not – of course – that I’d had any intention of homewrecking the marriage of some guy in Yemen. But you know, I didn’t want to be that girl.

    Hussein continued, “My wife, she is very conservative. Too conservative. Her father is a religious figure in Yemen, and she is always always praying. 5 times a day, can you believe it?! I mean, yes yes, God is One and you are supposed to pray, but one or two times is enough. No problem!”

    “Hmm,” I said, non-committally, mentally weighing whether it was appropriate for me to keep talking to this guy if his wife wasn’t okay with it.

    “Well, yes, she is very conservative. But actually, she is a good wife and I love her and my kids.”

    I decided that if he was unequivocal about loving her, I could continue. Already, he’d piqued my interest with a sort of guilelessness and candor rare among the people I meet online and, for that matter, among the people I meet in real life.

    I wasn’t wrong. Hussein seemed to have little understanding of how different my life was from his and did little to filter what he told me. Sometimes his stories were intriguing and different, sometimes shocking. I tried to always react like he was talking about something that seemed normal even though this was often not the case.

    Take, for example, the story of Hussein. Hussein was a Bedouin boy from the desert. He lived in a nomadic tent encampment with his father, his father’s several wives, and his siblings. At some point, Hussein found himself needing an education, so he went to Lebanon. There, at the academy, he was treated with contempt. “All those people were telling me, you are just a stupid Bedouin boy, how are you going to do well in school?” he told me. “So I got the highest grade in the class, even in English class. No problem!”

    After working in Lebanon for a while, Hussein eventually moved back to Yemen and got a good job in the city, far away from the desert life he had grown up with. When he came back to Yemen, his mother called him. “I think it’s time you get married,” she said, or something to that effect. Hussein agreed, and his mother said, “I’ve found a very nice girl for you. She is beautiful and she is from a good tribe. You can marry her.” Hussein’s sisters corroborated his mother’s story, so Hussein agreed to the marriage.

    “In Yemen,” he said, “among the Bedouin, you don’t meet before the wedding. Then there are two marriage parties. One for the women and one for the men. So we had these parties, and then my wife’s tribe veiled her completely and put her on a camel. Then they brought the camel to our tribe, and while they were coming they were shooting their guns to say, “We are coming, we are coming!” Then we were also shooting our guns to say, “you are welcome! You are welcome!” Then my wife arrived on the camel. She got off the camel and I had to unveil her face. Then I wasn’t allowed to touch her for a few days, and then we were married and I could touch her.

    Hussein’s stories often follow a few common themes. Contrasts and tensions between his upbringing in the desert and his current life in a city in Yemen and his life in Lebanon, or between conservative Islam and his more liberal belief. Camels. Technological innovation. The war in Yemen. And food. One day, I asked him to tell me about Yemeni food.

    “Oh it is so delicious!” he said. “We are having lots of delicious food in Yemen, especially the food that is being cooked in the desert. We actually bury it and roast it underground. Actually, the women do it. Men hunt in Yemen. They don’t cook.”

    “Oh?” I said. “So what kinds of things do you eat?”

    “Oh, you know, lambs, camels. Also the milk of the camel. It is so delicious. Inshallah, when you and your boyfriend come to visit Yemen, I will introduce you to camel milk. Mmmm.” He smacked his lips. “Also, we don’t eat any cows or pigs. There are no cows in the desert, so I have never eaten cow meat. Do you eat camel meat in Canada?”

    I told him we didn’t.

    “Oh, that is very sad,” he said, “When you come to visit Yemen inshallah you will eat the meat of the camel. We are also eating grasshoppers. They are very delicious.”

    “How do you eat them?” I asked, mentally wondering if Yemenites were in the habit of eating grasshopper soup or grasshopper salad or something.

    “Ohhhh,” Hussein paused, “well, here in the city with just my wife and my kids we are eating them with mayonnaise and ketchup, no problem! But when my father is coming to visit, we eat them by themselves because, you know Kate, if we are eating them with mayonnaise and ketchup my father will be telling me that I’m not a real man.”

    Another time, Hussein told me about the delectable desert gerbil. “In the desert, we are eating gerbils,” he said.

    “Gerbils?” I asked.

    “Yes, yes, gerbils. They are very delicious. The women, they make them like roasting. Here, I will send you a picture of a gerbil from the desert.”

    This is a desert gerbil.

    This is a desert gerbil.

    And this is a desert gerbil kebab.

    And this is a desert gerbil kebab.

    Camels are another common theme in conversations with Hussein.

    “My son,” he told me one day, “my son he is so like camels. Especially small camels because my son is very small. Sometimes he is like, you know, riding the small camels in the city.”

    “Do you guys use camels for long distances?” I asked.

    “No no!” he said. “We are using cars for this. Camels would take soooo long. But in the city, we are often using camels to go places.”

    Another time, he told me about a traditional Bedouin sport.

    “You know Kate, in the desert,” he said, “We are doing some sports with jumping and camels.”

    “Jumping camels?”

    “Yes, yes, we are running, and we are jumping.”

    “Can you send me a picture?”

    Hussein sent me a picture of a boy in midair, jumping over a camel.

    I stared at it dumbly. “Oh,” I said, “You mean you jump over camels.”

    “Yes yes!” he said enthusiastically. “We are jumping over camels.”

    “Can you jump over camels?” I asked. Hussein isn’t a small guy like the boys in the picture.

    “Oh,” he said, “when I was younger I was jumping over camels. But now I am, you know, I am married and my wife cooks very good food. So I have gotten some extra weight. Maybe now I could jump over only one camel. One small camel.”

    (Video of camel jumping below. There is also lots of great photography of it at this site: http://www.adamreynoldsphotography.com/camel-jumpers-of-the-al-zaraneeq. Go and have a look!)

    Hussein’s wife would come up from time to time. Eventually, it would appear that she got used to me, even waving and smiling at me occasionally from the other side of the camera. Although Hussein is still unequivocal about loving her, her lifestyle occasionally grates on his nerves. Hussein pines for his life in Lebanon, where he could go to a bar and enjoy a beer. Hussein’s wife, on the other hand, has no desire to engage in this kind of lifestyle.

    “Oh Kate!” Hussein said one day, “I had a very nice day. I went to the market today and I bought some nice clothes for my kids, a Spiderman t-shirt for my son and a dress for my daughter. But my wife – every time I give her money to buy something nice for herself, she is giving it to, you know, the poor people. She is just very religious. And she won’t buy any nice clothes. I tell her she shouldn’t wear an abaya, but she is always saying, ‘No, I want to wear my abaya.'”

    “But…” he said again, “I do love my wife. She’s a good wife. But also Kate, you know, I told her that she should learn English. Maybe, you know, she can also practice her English with you. But she told me that she didn’t want to learn English. But then I had a very good idea and I told her that if she learned English she could tell people who spoke English about Islam. Then she said that maybe it was a good idea for her to learn English too. Inshallah I will teach her the alphabet and the she can also start talking to you.”

    “Also Kate,” he said. “My father is always telling me that I should get some more wives. He has four wives and lots of children. But he doesn’t understand that I love having only one wife. My wife is enough for me.”

    Over all of Hussein’s everyday concerns arches the war in Yemen, a war I didn’t know about until I met him. Hussein mentioned it for the first time in his characteristic offhand way, like it’s something I should have already known about and normalized.

    “You know Kate,” he said, “last night there was a lot of bombing here. And my kids were very scared, they were crying.”

    “Who is fighting?” I asked.

    “Well,” Hussein responded, “nobody exactly knows all the details, but I think Saudi Arabia is wanting control of some of Yemen’s oil and so they invaded. And they are bombing military things. You know, it is very bad. That’s why I am hoping to get a job outside of Yemen with a different company and learn to speak good English so that people can understand me. Inshallah.”

    A few weeks later, he sent me a picture of some bombed out passenger planes. “Hey Kate,” he said, “here are some pictures of some planes that were damaged by shrapnel last night when Saudi Arabia was bombing military runways at the airport. Also, you know, these are Bombardier aircraft! They are from Canada.”

    damaged bombardier plan aircraft yemen 2 damaged bombardier plane aircraft yemen 3 damaged plane yemen 4 damaged plane yemen

    “Is this on the news?” I asked. “When did this happen?”

    “Yesterday,” (February 9th for the first three pictures, a week later for the fourth) he said. “I don’t know if it’s on the news.”

    I googled. It wasn’t.

    “You are welcome to write about it on your blog if you want, just don’t say who sent you the photographs. You are not allowed to take photographs in this airport. (Hussein, by the way, is not his real name, and I have changed some other identifying details.)” I agreed.

    The conversation turned back to more quotidian concerns. “You know Kate,” he said, “I want to show you something.” He brought his computer over to the corner of his living room. “This is my electricity generator. I am hooking up some solar panels and generating electricity through this. This is my converter and this is my router. It is working very well! We are even giving some electricity to our neighbour for her lights because she is poor and she is a widow. I bought this when I was in Lebanon. You know Kate, before the war this was not so expensive. But now because of the war it is becoming very expensive. So I am lucky.”

    “Aren’t you afraid that somebody will steal it when you aren’t home?” I asked. “Oh no,” he said. “When I am home, no problem! And when I am not home, my wife she is able to use our Kalashnikov if there are thieves.”

    Hussein is also a big fan of the movie Avatar. “Oh, I am loving this movie Avatar,” he told me once. “It is like living in the desert, with the wars between the tribes and stuff, you know Kate. I am, you know, like I am understanding this movie.”

    Most recently, Hussein told me about chewing khat. “This weekend, my father is coming, so we are going to chew some khat,” he told me. “I really should quit, but if my father comes he will say, ‘why are you not chewing the khat’ with me. So I will get pretty high.”

    He paused and reflected.

    “But you know Kate,” he said. “Chewing the khat can be kind of dangerous because they are putting pesticides on it. So sometimes it makes the insides of your cheek hurt. But it is okay because my father has a friend who knows how to identify when the khat has pesticides on it. Yes, it is okay.”

    “Well, good luck,” I said. Later, he sent me a photo of chewing khat captioned, “Now I am going to get high.” I didn’t know if I should be proud of teaching him that word, or worried. The constant background of the war and public-health dangers seems to be perceived by Hussein as relative normalcy.

    During our last conversation, he said, “There was bombing again last night, and my kids were scared. But, you know, me and my wife are okay. There have been four wars in Yemen. We are used to it. Inshallah, it will end soon but you know, we are used to it.”