All posts tagged Culture Shock

  • Chicken Soup for the Lesbian Soul

    This post is about one particular area of culture shock that, no matter how much time I spend in Turkey and with Turkish people, I still find challenging.

    I’m not talking about lesbianism, which I will get to later. I am talking about hospitality culture, and particularly, about when Turkish people buy me stuff. It’s not that I have any problem with people being generous, or with hospitality, or with people being happy that I’m there. All of these things are lovely.

    What I find difficult about Turkish hospitality culture is that its rules are totally different from Canadian hospitality culture. It’s like learning a new language. Moreover, unlike actually learning a language, there are few Turkish culture teachers who have also spent a lot of time immersed in Canadian culture that can instruct me on the finer points of how to feel and behave when people (read, mostly men) offer to buy me stuff or just buy me stuff without allowing me the space to politely refuse. My cultural codes play constant interference in my head, and I always struggle with making the same assumptions about gifts in Turkey that I would make in Canada.

    Oh Canada / my home and native land / your cultural norms / the only ones I understand.

    Oh Canada / my home and native land / your cultural norms / are the ones I understaaaaaaaaand.

    Here’s an example: in Canada, if a man asks you out, there are tacit codes for about how much money he can spend on you before it becomes clear that you are very interested in him romantically. The last time I went on a date in Canada, I think I let him spend $10 on me. This is low, but it was a first date and I was entirely unsure about my own level of interest, so I didn’t want him to get any ideas.

    If, however, I had allowed him to spend $30 or $40 on me, I would practically have been obligated to give him a second date, and if it had been more, he probably would have expected me to sleep with him that night. I would be allowed to refuse, but it would be considered greedy to do something like that and we likely wouldn’t continue seeing each other.

    However, if I were interested but not ready or willing to have a physical relationship, I could keep the amount of money I allowed him to spend low, perhaps pay for the second date, and by the third date have a frank and honest conversation about our mutual expectations going forward.*

    In Turkey, the first time I went out with a guy, I made it very clear beforehand that I wasn’t romantically interested in anything because I was only there for two months, and he told me that he was living temporarily at his parents’ house because he was between jobs. From my perspective, considering the fact that he didn’t have a job, and because I didn’t want him to think that I was romantically interested, we should choose cheap places and both pay our own way, right? Wrong. He paid for everything, including a fair amount of alcohol (which, relative to the Turkish cost of living, is like liquid gold.) I felt quite badly about how much money it was, and I remember him saying to me, as I made noises of protestation, “you’re a guest in Turkey,” and then “it’s basically impossible to say no to things in Turkey.”

    He was right. I have now been in this situation countless times, and I usually can’t say no. Each time, I am very thankful for the generosity but I normally feel a bit guilty as well.

    I also have trouble distinguishing between what is regular “you are a guest” gifts and what are “I like you romantically” gifts. In some ways, it doesn’t matter, because it is difficult to say no either way. Eventually I realized that the only way I can deal with this is to be clear about my expectations, be careful, and accept gifts graciously and thankfully. Then, if somebody turns out to have other intentions, I can politely tell them that I was telling the truth about what I was and wasn’t looking for.

    Easier said than done, however. I still find myself doing things to mitigate how guilty I feel about people buying me things. So, when a Turkish guy invited me out here in Georgia, I suggested we go to a place that I knew wasn’t that expensive so that I would feel better about him paying.

    Unfortunately, when we got there it was temporarily closed. He said, “Hey, I had sushi last night and it was really good. I’d be happy to have it again – do you want to?”

    In Canada sushi is not particularly expensive, so without really thinking about it, I said, “Sure, sushi sounds good.”

    Big mistake. When we got to the sushi place I looked at the menu only to realize that the sushi was approximately three times the price of Canadian sushi. So I said, “Oh, I didn’t realize it would be so expensive.”

    And he said, “Don’t worry, I wouldn’t invite you to an expensive place and expect you to pay.”

    Welp. Here we go again.

    I told him that he could order because I couldn’t even order food that expensive for myself, and he did the honours. The sushi came (it was the best sushi I have ever had) and he started making racist comments. I can’t even write them down because I don’t want to make my Turkish friends who read this blog angry.

    Shit.

    Finally, I said, “You know, I don’t agree with what you’re saying and I would prefer to talk about something else.” We changed the subject, tucked into the sushi, conversed, whatever. I already knew that me and this guy were not going to be friends, so I couldn’t act remotely flirtatious. Just politely friendly.

    Midway through the meal he said, “You know, you have a lesbian soul.”

    I said, “What?”

    He said, “I can tell you’re a lesbian.”

    I said, “I’m not a lesbian.”

    He said, “No, I promise you that you are. I have a lot of lesbian friends, and you act exactly like them.”

    I thought, “When you say “lesbian friends,” do you mean women who don’t find you attractive? Or are they actually lesbians?”

    I said, “well, I’m not a lesbian.”

    He said, “No, seriously, you are definitely a lesbian! If you want, tonight we will go out to the club and I will buy you a prostitute and you can try being with a woman. I guarantee you that if you are just with a woman once you will not want to go back to men.”

    This was preposterous. I made a face as if I were seriously considering it.

    He said, “See, you are not grossed out!”

    I said, “I’m afraid I might have to refuse your offer. I don’t like the idea of paying for sex. Also, I’m not a lesbian.”

    He said, “What’s the problem? You won’t be paying, I will be.”

    Did I feel bad when he paid for 40 American dollars’ worth of sushi for me? No, no I did not. Did I feel obligated to see him again? Also no!

    The ladies in Bend it like Beckham are as confused as I am.

    The ladies in Bend it like Beckham are as confused as I am. Although I am neither a lesbian nor a Pisces.

    On a side note, this is not the first time this has happened to me with Turkish men. The other three times, I politely refused a man’s offer to take me out only to have him ask, “what, are you a lesbian?” as though it were the only possible reason I could possibly refuse to spend time with such a stud.

    I always have to bite back the urge to say, “not usually, but your Mom is special.” In Canada, it would be a mild burn. In Turkey, it might get me beaten up.

    *The amounts differ depending on the relative income brackets of the two people going on a date, and there is a threshold where you cannot safely assume romantic intent, which is usually about the cost of one coffee or beer.

  • Going Viral or How I Try to Give Slippers the Slip

    I have a cold. I’ve had it for a little over a week. No need to be concerned – it’s a small thing, a little throat scratchiness and a bit of fatigue at the end of the day. Nothing major.

    How did I get this cold? A virus, obviously. But not according to everybody I seem to meet. For them, I have this cold because I am cold.

    This is actually an Ebola virus, not a cold. But it looks cool, doesn't it?

    This is actually an Ebola virus, not a cold. But it looks cool, doesn’t it?

    In Canada, I walk around in bare or sock feet all the time. In Turkey and the Caucasus, a mark of a good host is that they will give you slippers upon entering their house. These are often cheap plastic affairs of the wrong size, sometimes with a high heel, and I am more comfortable without them. Usually I accept them out of politeness, take them off at the earliest opportunity, and then forget to put them back on. At some point somebody usually notices.

    Host: Hey, you aren’t wearing any slippers! Did my mother not give you any?

    Me: Oh, ah, uh, yes, slippers. Well, you see, in Canada we don’t actually wear them. Not that much anyway. She did give me some, but I just forgot about them. It’s a small and insignificant cultural difference, but I really prefer not to wear them. No problem.

    Host: But, you are going to get cold.

    Me: No, I swear I’m not cold. I’m perfectly comfortable.

    Host: Yes, you are going to get cold, and then you are going to get a cold.

    Me: No, don’t worry, I won’t. I won’t get a virus from not wearing slippers.

    Host: You don’t get a cold from a virus, you get it from being cold. Here, I’ll go and get you some slippers.

    Me: I guess I’ll just get them myself.

    At the end of this conversation I feel like I am spitting on my hosts’ hospitality by not wanting to wear slippers; believing that their guest is doing something unhealthy in their home and not doing anything about it might make them feel as though they are a bad host or as though it is their fault that I have fallen ill, and I don’t particularly want them to feel that way.

    (Oddly, this concern does not extend to smoking, which has been known to cause far worse chronic and potentially lethal respiratory problems, but hey. Cancer, chemo, cold, chicken soup – they all start with ‘c’ so they can’t be much different.)

    Anyway, I also don’t want to create more work for my hosts by making them chase me around the house with my neglected pair of slippers. So usually I put on the damn slippers and then forget about them again, and then I do the same dance at every place I go to in the hopes that I will eventually be able to get away with my rebellious discalceatism.

    When I finally did get a cold, I had another version of this conversation.

    Host: Didn’t my mother give you slippers? You must have gotten the cold from walking around on the cold floor.

    Me: No, it’s a virus. I’m sure of it. Canada is very cold and we don’t just all have a cold all the time. I’m definitely sure it’s a virus.

    Host: No . . . I’m sure. It’s because you’re cold.

    Me: Okay, fine, I’ll wear the slippers.

    I have given up on convincing people of the scientific impossibility of colds being related to actually being cold.* If the fact that I am from one of the coldest countries in the world, have lived in a city that was regularly -40 in the winter time, waited every day for the bus in said temperatures and did not perpetually have a cold does not convince them, I’m not sure what will.**

    *Obviously I can recognize that being extremely cold and having hypothermia will compromise your immune system and make you more susceptible to catching cold, but inside it is always above 17 degrees.

    **This anecdotal argument is actually a logical fallacy, but it is not only me. All Canadians do not spend from October to April with a cold. I am confident that these results could be backed up with science.

    photo by:
  • Armenian and Azerbaijani Family Culture. Also, Dryers.

    A question I get asked a lot on my travels through the Caucasus is “Do you live with your family?” Since I have not lived with my parents for a while, I usually tell the truth, which is “No.” Then I grin mischievously and say “my parents live a 12 hour drive from me.”

    People respond in a variety of ways. Shock, horror, consternation, pity. Sometimes even mild surprise. The point is, that sort of thing is really not normal here.

    Clean

    In fact, in Armenia and Azerbaijan, I was told that while older children have the right to move away from their parents when they marry, the role of the youngest male child is usually to stay. If this youngest child wishes to get married, he must find a wife who will move in with his parents after their happy nuptials. In more liberal families, they may also move into an apartment close by.

    If you are an unmarried person such as myself, it is typically your lot to live with your parents until that happy day should come, unless you decide to go away for school.

    When I tell people that there are no such obligations in North America, their faces make me feel a bit judged and I begin to feel defensive and like I have to explain that in North America we really love our parents, but that things are just different there.

    I had a conversation with a man I met in Azerbaijan about this, and I started to do this.

    Me: But, you know, you have to understand. In North America, we really love our parents, but we are just more independent. And lots of people do live close to their parents.

    Him: Well, we are very loyal to our parents and that’s a good thing. But in some ways, maybe leaving them earlier is better. I’m 29 and I’m going to the States next year for school. And you know how to do everything you need in a house, but I don’t know anything. I don’t know how to cook or do laundry or iron. My Mom does everything for me. Last time my Mom was sick, I had to take my clothes to my sister’s.

    He said this without the deep shame that I can only imagine a 29 year old Canadian would feel at making the same admission. Which is reasonable, I guess, because in Azerbaijani culture this is normal.

    Me: Oh, well, laundry’s easy. You just put the clothes and soap in and press a few buttons. Then you take it out when it’s done. If you want to learn how, I’m sure there’s a tutorial on YouTube about how to do it.

    Him: Hey, that’s a good idea! I used a YouTube tutorial to learn how to change the oil filter in my car, but I never thought about it for laundry.

    Me: Yeah, YouTube has everything.

    Him: I also heard you are supposed to separate darks and whites?

    Me: Yes.

    Him: What about ironing? My sister told me that ironing is harder than laundry.

    This brings me to another topic: the humble dryer. As this man will hopefully learn upon arrival in the United States, North America is possessed with this exceedingly handy machine which will perform a number of nifty tasks:

    De-wrinkle your clothes (not perfectly, but maybe enough that you can forego ironing.)

    Dry your clothes.

    Warm up your clothes. There is nothing like a cold winter night spent snuggled up in some pyjamas lifted straight from the dryer, or the feeling after a shower of wrapping yourself in a huge snuggly warm towel.

    Kill bed bugs.

    Alas, rate of dryer ownership in Turkey and the Caucasus is so abysmally low that I have never even seen one. Everybody dries their clothes on a line, outside if there is sun and inside if it is cold or raining.

    I know dryers are big consumers of electricity and that they are taxing on the environment, but when it rains for three days straight, it gets a bit tiring to look at your pants that you washed three days ago and hope that they’ll be dry the next day. It is also mystifying to me that no entrepreneur has said, “Hey wait a second. This dryer thing could really take off in places where people don’t have dryers.

    Alas, no. In a fit of inspiration, I wrote a little ditty to be sung to the theme of that favourite thing song from the Sound of Music.

    Towels that are scratchy and jeans that are damp

    Laundry racks making your living room cramped

    Didn’t think I would say this but I miss static cling

    But in this region it’s just not a thing…

    photo by:
  • Azerbaijani Culture I: Western Hospitality through the Lens of the Canapé

    Hospitality cultures in Turkey and the Caucasus are very different from hospitality cultures in North America and the West.

    I have already written a bit about Turkish hospitality, and touched on how it can provoke extreme culture shock. I plan to write a whole not tongue-in-cheek post on it at some point as it is definitely one of the most difficult things for me to navigate as a Canadian.

    I can only imagine that Turkish and Caucasian peoples experience an inside-out version of this when they spend time in Europe or North America.

    According to a British girl living in Azerbaijan with her Azerbaijani boyfriend that I met on the train to Baku, this creates a general perception that people from the West are cold and inhospitable.

    Canapes

    Mmmm, canapés…

    She said, “I sometimes have to remind my boyfriend that Azerbaijanis don’t have a monopoly on hospitality – that we also have hospitality in the U.K., but we express it differently. Most of the Azerbaijanis I’ve met think that we are cold people and that they can’t expect to receive hospitality from us, which is true of some people, of course, but not really a fair assumption.

    There was this one time I invited a bunch of our friends all round for dinner. When they arrived, it turned out they’d all been out to eat together just before and they weren’t hungry. I’d made so much food; a massive lasagna and everything. So I asked, ‘Why? I made tonnes of food.’ And I’d made everything – I made desserts.

    They said, ‘We were really hungry and we expected to come over and there would be nothing but canapés and like, tiny little cucumber sandwiches. So we ate before.’

    I said, ‘What? Why would I invite you over and serve you cucumber sandwiches?’ I can only imagine that at some point they all went to some British person’s house or something and that’s what it was… They probably expected a full meal and were really hungry the whole time. So they prepared in advance for my invitation.”

     

    photo by:
  • Till Divorce Do Us Part

    When I first arrived in the Caucasus, I stayed at a guesthouse run by a Georgian man in his late forties or fifties. Over a dinner of potatoes, alcohol, coffee, and cigarettes, he popped the question.

    “So, when’s your wedding going to be?”

    I answered as I always do. A noncommittal shrug and a “No idea.”

    It struck a nerve.

    “You have to get married! When I was your age, I already had my daughter! You’re 23 already! If you don’t hurry up, you’ll never get married!”

    What does one say to this stuff? Fortunately, it didn’t matter. After telling me that the end of my period of eligibility was nigh for a while, he asked a question that I could answer.

    “Do you have a boyfriend?”

    “No. No boyfriend.”

    He looked crestfallen.

    “Have you ever had a boyfriend?”

    Fortunately I have had a few boyfriends and was able to assure him that my current lack of prospects has little to do with my ability to attract men in general. I then explained that none of my boyfriends had worked out and that if I did marry I would want to be with somebody that I would be happy to call the father of my children because, if I have them, it’s important to me that I give them the best.

    Suddenly, the entire tone of the conversation changed. He said, “Good for you!”

    It was a first conversation in a series about the culture of marriage and divorce in the Caucasus. I get asked if I’m married and when I plan to marry a lot here, much more than I do in Turkey. From what I have gathered, people in Georgia and Armenia tend to marry young – around 20 – and women are considered rather old to be married around the age of 25. But people who refuse to live in a bad marriage appear to be respected. It’s strange.

    In Tbilisi, I met a woman at a guesthouse I was staying at. I would have pegged her at around 32. A man around my own age came into the kitchen. Since this woman lived with her parents, I took him to be a brother.

    “This is my son,” she said.

    I looked confusedly from one to the other, and then curiosity got the better of me.

    “How old are you?”

    “I’m 36,” she said. “And my son is 22. I got married when I was 13 and had him when I was 14.”

    “Are you still married?” I asked.

    “No!” she said. “I only lived with that husband for about one year, but it was enough time to have a baby. When I got married, it was the old days. Everybody got married very young. And I didn’t know nothing – about sex, about being a mother, about love. The marriage was arranged, so I just went and then I hated it. But – and now it is not like this – in those days people talked. If I left my husband people would say that I wasn’t a virgin and that nobody else would marry me. But I was so unhappy that I called my parents and said, ‘If you don’t let me come back home, I will take my baby and move to Europe.’ So they said that I could come back home. It used to be very bad. Even when I asked my mother if she loved my father when she got married, she said no. But now I have a second husband and he is younger than I am and he has helped me live like I’m younger.”

    In Yerevan, I met a woman at the post office. She asked me where I was from and then started telling me about her children. One of them lived in Brazil, the other in Moscow. “I love to travel,” she said. “And it’s hard when you have kids, but now that my kids are grown up I can. And it’s so good that you are travelling now and that you are able to take advantage of your youth.”

    I asked, “Are you married?”

    She said, “I’m divorced,” as though it were a point of pride.

    “I married my husband when I was 20, and I was far too young, but in our society we got married that young. A girl that young – she wants to go to the theatre, to go travel, but I was just married. And I divorced my husband when my kids were 8 and 6. I took them by myself and it was hard – very hard. But I gave them a very good education, and now they both speak English very well and have very good jobs. My daughter went to the American University, which was the best university she could go to, and she is married but she is waiting longer to have children. She is only 28. She has some time. It is better, I think. When my kids tell me that now I can have my own life, I tell them that I am older and it’s not the same as having a life when you’re young. I still feel like I missed out on having youth.”

    In Ijevan, I met a two women, neither Armenian. One was Swiss but lives in Armenia; the other, Lena, was on vacation from her home in Moscow. The two reported also being frequently asked about whether they would soon be married.

    Lena said, “At first I would say no, and they would say, ‘No! You shouldn’t think like that! You’ll be happier if you’re married and it’s getting late for you. Why don’t you want to be married?’ So then I started telling them I was divorced, which I am, and the conversation completely changed. People reacted more like ‘respect for getting out of your shitty marriage’ or ‘men are such complete morons,’ or ‘we understand you.’”

    These three conversations were fascinating to me. I wouldn’t have expected the two attitudes to coexist in this way, nor do I understand how a society where people seem to understand why living in a bad marriage is not ideal seem to still promote young marriage. Or perhaps they don’t. Perhaps these conversations are the natural outcome of a society in transition, where people cannot figure out whether their culture is in favour of the old way of doing things or the new.

  • Expats’ Relationship with Georgia and the Georgian Relationship with Russia

    The day I arrived in Tbilisi, I dropped my bags where I was staying and went out to walk around aimlessly. Soon I was approached by a man who asked me if I wanted to have a drink with him and his friend because “I looked alone.”

    After asking whether they were creepy and receiving the necessary assurances that they were not, I sat down. The two turned out to be from Cyprus; one worked in Georgia, and the other was vacationing. Later, two 18-year-old German girls who were doing a social-service gap year in Tbilisi joined us. I, sandwiched between three expats and one other vacationer, did my best to gauge what Georgia was all about.

    Fortunately for me, conversation soon turned to life in Georgia, specifically what was backwards about it. As the conversation continued, the sense of incongruity that had followed me since I arrived in Georgia became more and more disorienting.

    Cypriot: “It’s so bad that people don’t recycle here! Even when I was living in Turkey, they recycled.”

    (Note: I have never seen anybody recycle in Turkey, and I’ve been to almost every major Turkish city except Antalya. Dear Turkish friends, please enlighten me as to how I’ve managed to miss the thriving Turkish recycling scene.)

    German girl: Oh yes. It’s SO bad! In Germany we have a place for paper, glass, plastic, and metal. Here they are not even separating their GLASS!

    Cypriot: There is not even a company for them to give their recyclables to! Back in Turkey ten years ago we were separating our recycling.

    German Girl 2: I even saw a German product here that had a sticker on it that said that you would have gotten money back for it in Germany!

    Ah yes. Quite terrible.

    The next topic was pharmacies.

    Cypriot: It is so terrible that you can just buy things here without a prescription! It’s very dangerous to take drugs without having them prescribed by a doctor.

    (Note: This is the same Cypriot who lived in Turkey, where you can also buy drugs without a prescription.)

    German girl: Yes, this is very dangerous! They should make going to the doctor necessary before you get a prescription.

    Me: Uh, but maybe it’s better for the pharmacists to do the counselling for some more usual drugs. Like I don’t know that it should be necessary to have to go to the doctor to get a birth control subscription.

    Cypriot: Yes, but this is very dangerous. They should really change this.

    I don’t disagree with them. At home I’m an avid recycler and I generally support the prescription before purchase system. Still, having had no time to engage Georgia, something about the conversation rubbed me the wrong way. It was as if we had collectively decreed that Georgia should be exactly like us without understanding why Georgia wasn’t exactly like us.

    Later that night, I my host in Tbilisi invited me to a Couchsurfing meeting. He ended up not showing up for two hours after he said he would be there, so seated myself next to two Georgian men. The first was small and full of intensity, the second other taller and calmer.

    Guy 1 spotted a gay couple being openly affectionate.

    Guy 1: Oh, they shouldn’t be doing that! They’ll get beat up. You can’t be different in this country. Can’t be openly gay here! No way.

    Guy 2: There’s lots of openly gay people in Tbilisi…

    Guy 1: Nope, sucks to live in Georgia. People earn no money. Unemployment is 80 percent.

    Guy 2: Unemployment’s only about 40 percent

    Guy 1: And the borders aren’t open. Russians can come here, but Georgians have a huge amount of difficulty going anywhere.

    Guy 2: Things are getting better

    Me: If Georgians could emigrate, do you thing they would?

    Guy 1: If you told Georgians right that they could go to Europe, that they could go to Germany or Switzerland, Tbilisi would be ghost town tomorrow.

    Guy 2: Makes small, almost imperceptible noise of protest, then shuts up.

    Guy 1: Russia just keeps fucking with Georgia. Russia is like an evil child with a bag of toys. Instead of distributing the toys, Russia just can’t let go of the handle of the bag, which is Georgia. And the government supports them.

    Guy 1 started to talk to somebody else, so I asked Guy 2 what he thought. His evaluation of the situation painted a rosier picture, although I’m not sure if I would have found it rosy if I had not first listened to Guy 1.

    “Well, there are a lot of difficult things in Georgia, it’s true. Peoples salaries are low, for example. And the most recent government is very pro-Russian. But in general things are getting better. When I was growing up in the 90s, it was during the war. And it was just people in the streets with guns killing each other. And everybody was poor. My parents were academics and we were as poor as everybody else. Now, things have gotten a lot better. We’re not at war with each other any longer. In 2011, the unemployment rate was only 21%. Now that we have this pro-Russian government it has gone up to 40%, but I am hopeful that the next elections will give us something better. But the biggest problem we have to solve in Georgia now is lack of education. People really aren’t educated and so they don’t know how to solve their problems.”

    Finally, my Couchsurfing host showed up with a Dutch girl who was a prolific traveller and somewhat familiar with Georgia.

    Dutch Girl: It’s true that people make very low salaries – not so much in Tbilisi, but definitely in the country. Day to day it’s fine, as people typically grow or farm their own food. But if you have to go to the doctor, you’re screwed.

    Aha! Perhaps it is better for Georgian pharmacies to offer drugs without prescriptions, at least for now.

    I still had one burning question though. What does it mean that the unemployment rate is 40% or 80%? Is that percentage of the population that is not working, or is it the percentage of people who want to be working who are not working?

    Later that evening, in conversation with my Couchsurfing host, Russia came up again.

    CS Host: Oh, Russia is a very big shit. They think they own Georgia and all the post-Soviet countries. They have this imperialist attitude. Like, all people who come from those great imperialist countries have it. France, the U.K. It is all a big shit. But I am mostly hosting girls from Russia.

    Wait-what-why? Why would you do that if you hate them so much?

    Me: Why do you host people you don’t like?

    CS Host: I must understand their psychology!

    Me: And what have you learned?

    CS Host: They are talking like parts of Georgia are part of Russia! Like Abkhazia is part of Russia! And they are talking about Sochi and they are not even KNOWING that Sochi was normally part of Georgia! Or they are unwilling to say that all of these places are part of Georgia – like they don’t say it’s part of Russia either, but they won’t say that it’s part of GEORGIA!

    You may be surprised to learn that writing this blog doesn’t pay the bills, so I spend a lot of time teaching English lessons on Skype. My greatest student-base comes from post-Soviet countries. And while I don’t think any of my students would advocate any kind of return to the Soviet era, many of them display a certain nostalgia for the Soviet period, especially in the area of education, which was apparently not bad and free.

    Not so in Georgia! So far I have uncovered no trace of nostalgia.

    Intrigued by these conversations (and their intensity), the next day I decided to go to the museum of Soviet Occupation.

    The museum of Soviet occupation is composed of pictures of martyrs in the struggle to free Georgia from Soviet occupation. Wall text is in Georgian and English, not in Russian, even though most tourists to Georgia are Russian speaking. A short video juxtaposes clips of protesting Georgians with clips of Russian bombers during the 2008 war and compares them to Hungarian protestors of 1956. That is pretty much all there is. I didn’t even see any discussion of collaborators.

    I can’t blame Georgians for their feelings about Russia. But coming from Canada, where one of the cultural features is a certain non-intensity, these conversations were at once intriguing and uncomfortable. The idea of hosting people you dislike in order to understand their psychology seems distinctly unethical, and the intensity of the feeling towards Russia is alien to all my cultural identifications. On the other hand, I still really don’t understand this country. The pieces of the puzzle have not all fallen into place, and my erstwhile sense of incongruity and disorientation remains.

  • Impressions of Georgia

    Being so close to Turkey, I expected Georgia and Turkey to be similar and for Georgia to feel familiar. However, while market merchants were hawking the same vegetables, and although I could still hear many people speaking Turkish in the streets, Georgia seemed suddenly, incongruously, European.

    IMG_2737

    As I formed my first impressions of Georgia, this feeling of incongruity remained. I’d stumbled into a perplexing almost-version of what I knew of Europe. The gorgeous buildings were there. The cheap alcohol was there. The people walking around in short dresses were there. Other details, however, seemed distinctly un-European, and the first of these was traffic.

    My first day in Georgia I stood perplexedly at the corner of an intersection watching the cars go by. It was a basic T-intersection, the sort that might have qualified as a four-way stop in Canada had there been stop signs and less traffic going through it. As I watched, four cars approached the intersection, all turning left. For a moment, all four drivers hesitated. Then they all turned left at the same time. Simultaneously arriving at the middle of the intersection, they formed a roughly swastika-like formation that turned on itself until all the cars had successfully found themselves going in their desired direction.

    Nobody died. Hurrah.

    I thought that Turkey had taught me to cross the street aggressively, but I was wrong. For one thing, Turkish roads are generally narrow and congested. This means that you have less space to cross, and cars are moving more slowly. Also, Turkish people, even perfect strangers, are always looking out for me.

    Georgia’s cities, however, have wide boulevards with few traffic lights. To cross a street in Georgia, I walk into traffic and stare down drivers as if I’m daring them to try running me over. If I manage to make it halfway across the street and no opening presents itself in traffic going the other way, I stand on the median line and wait for a driver going slowly enough that I can make eye contact.

    Rinse, repeat. Rinse, repeat. I am convinced that the more aggressively I pose myself the more likely a car is to stop, but the experience is terrifying.

    Sunrise over the Georgian mountains at the Batumi train station.

    Sunrise over the Georgian mountains at the Batumi train station.

    I have now been in Georgia for a few days, and my sense of incongruity is growing. Georgia is a beautiful country with lush forests, spectacular mountains, delicious food, great architecture, big-name designer stores, and hospitable people. It has all the ingredients for a relaxing vacation. Yet there is an undercurrent of tension. I don’t understand what I’m seeing, and two weeks is not long enough to learn, but I’ll do my best.

  • The Perils of Cultural Criticism

    When I was a teenager this guy named Joey, an Australian, moved in next door. Joey was a generally loud person, and spent a lot of his time making negative comments about Canada. The main points that I remember were that taxes weren’t included in the prices and that “you would never see Australian drivers stopping for jaywalkers.”

    Joey’s opinions about Canada grated on me. I even went so far as to justify the Canadian way of doing things in my head: “Well, not having taxes included in our prices makes us better at mental math, and people stop for jaywalkers because Canadians must care about each other WAY MORE than Australians.”

    Later that year Joey hosted Kim, a young woman from Australia. If I had thought Joey was annoying, this woman was 1000 times worse. On top of her seemingly constant criticisms, she had a whiney voice, and I have this one memory of her sort of moaning at me, “It’s soah weiird that you guys dye your cheese yellerhhh.”

    Ergh! I just wanted to tell her where she could stuff a block of white cheese. Leave us and our yellow cheese alone! Nobody forced you to come here!

    Needless to say, I may have taken Joey and Kim’s cultural observations a bit personally.

    Now that I’m older and better travelled, I understand that it is a bit strange that Canadian prices don’t include taxes and that our cheese is dyed a truly disconcerting shade of yellow. I’m also a bit ashamed about having been so defensive about Joey and Kim’s criticisms, although I also still understand why I felt that way.

    The point of this story is that, now that I travel a lot, my feelings towards Joey and Kim have become more gracious because I have realized that I sometimes make similar comments in the countries that I visit. I struggle with the tension between the fact that, while I like expressing and communicating my feelings and I don’t generally consider them illegitimate, these comments can actually cause personal hurt or irritation to people from that country.

    Here is one small example: I love food. I cook a lot at home. I spend more money on food than I do on rent. And I have generally have high standards for what I eat.

    I’ll be honest: I don’t love Turkish food. I know it is famous around the world. I wouldn’t say that it’s unpalatable or disgusting. I have had some really good meals in Turkey, and some Turkish dishes are counted among my favourites. I am also especially thankful to Turkish people who have hosted me and cooked for me.

    Generally, however, I find that Turkish food all tastes pretty similar and that the Turkish spice repertoire is limited. And there’s no vanilla in the cookies.

    And so every time I come to Turkey, I end up dropping 5-10 pounds because, even though Turkish food is fine, I’m rarely enthused about eating it. To add to this, almost all Turkish restaurants serve exactly the same meals, so knowing that the same foods are all available to me at any time takes away my motivation to get really excited.

    After a little while in Turkey I looked in the mirror and realized that, once again, I’d lost weight. Turning around to observe the new way my shirt was hanging, I made this observation out loud.

    In retrospect, I probably shouldn’t have done this. People were being very hospitable to me, and I wouldn’t want to imply that they weren’t feeding me well. Except that maybe that’s exactly how the comment came across. Now that I’ve left Turkey, I can’t help but think back on that moment and feel kind of ashamed by how rude this comment must have sounded. And it isn’t just that comment. There are actually a lot of things I don’t like about Turkey, and I comment on them fairly often. I would not be surprised or blame a Turkish person if I made a comment and they thought, “Nobody forced you to come here.”

    On the other hand, I also think that it’s okay to feel conflicted about a place. I love Canada, but there are a lot of things about it that I don’t love (ranging from our history vis-à-vis our Aboriginal populations to the fact that it’s a lot harder to make friends to our generally sub-par public transport systems etc etc.) The difference is that, in Canada, if I make some comment about us having a bad public transport system, nobody will take it as a personal affront to Canada, but when two foreign girls did the exact same thing last year, they were disparaged as sanctimonious foreigners who had absolutely no understanding of how Canada works. (Make sure to read the comments at the bottom of the article. They are embarrassing.)

    It’s a balancing act that I hope I don’t flub up too much. I love Turkey, but I don’t love all of Turkey. And I love Canada, but I don’t love all of Canada. And I try and hope to express my opinions in kind ways, and to express only opinions that matter, but often I don’t. Unfortunately for me, my status as a foreigner makes this a trickier road than usual to navigate. Who am I to say anything? Nobody forced me to come here!

    It’s maddening. It’s one of the really uncomfortable things about travelling. It sometimes makes me wonder if I am actually a decent person. And yet, somehow I have to get past it and keep going and live with myself. Even if I’m not proud of things I’ve said or done, or if I feel conflicted about the value of expressing my opinions, or if it irritates me that my opinions are interpreted differently than those of a person from the country I am visiting.

    I wish I could come up with some better kind of conclusion, but I can’t. This is just a challenge that comes with being on the road.

  • Turkish Language I: Balık etli

    As this is my second time spending a significant amount of time in Turkey, I am learning more and more to what point it is important to understand local languages in order to understand cultures. Sometimes the rapport that certain expressions have with a culture is easy to understand.

    Sometimes, however, I am left scratching my head. What?

    Take, for example, my favourite Turkish term: balık etli. This is an adjective that means, literally, ‘with the meat of a fish,’ but it is actually a euphemism for ‘fat.’ That’s right, a euphemism. While a polite person in Canada may call a fat woman ‘bigger,’ ‘full-figured,’ ‘a bit chubby maybe,’ ‘curvy,’ or ‘thick,’ in Turkish, she is basically ‘like a fish.’

    Really?

    Really?

    To add to this, it is not only an expression that men use to refer to women, but one that women use to refer to themselves. For example, if a woman weighs a few more pounds than she’d like, but isn’t ready to own her fatness, she can say ‘I’m not fat. I’m like a fish!’

    Whatever makes you feel sexy baby!

    To be honest, I cannot really fathom how this could possibly make any woman feel better about her body. The best equivalent in English I can come up with is, “I’ve got a little meat on my bones,” but at least this isn’t linked to one particular animal, especially not one as unattractive as a fish.

    The other thing that I think is really funny about this term is how difficult it is to translate into English. Here’s the thing: this term is polite, it is only used to refer to women, it is not particularly sexualized, it’s a euphemism, it doesn’t mean a very fat body type (google yields pictures of women that I would describe as ‘chubby.’)

    So, ‘chubby’ doesn’t work super well, since it’s not polite enough, unless you qualify it with ‘a bit.’ Fat, of course, is out. ‘Thick’ is too sexualized. ‘Full-figured’ might be too euphemistic and plus-sized is typically used when talking about clothing. ‘Curvy’ is losing its value as a euphemism for fat as women who are curvy (in all sizes) continue to maintain that being curvy involves having a small waist and big bust and/or hips. ‘Plump’ is a word that isn’t used much these days, and if it is used it rarely describes young women. Not to mention than every translation totally loses the fishy connotations!

    Oh well. I don’t know that I’ve learned something very valuable about Turkish culture, but at least when I speak Turkish I don’t have to try to fit this fish-shaped peg into any other kind of hole.

    photo by:
  • “I Don’t Know Why My Kids are Like This!”: My Experience as an Au Pair in Turkey

    When I decided to go work as an au pair in Turkey, I was well aware of the fact that it was a risky decision. Going to a country as culturally different as Turkey is from Canada, working under the table and without a contract, being far away from friends and family, and being dependent on people I’d barely met was enough to make me a little anxious about the trip. But I reasoned with myself. The only thing I had to lose was money. And money is just money, unless you don’t have enough. I did have enough, so I decided to take the risk and go.

    In the end, most of the things I risked happened, and eventually I even quit my job. Actually I “voluntarily stepped down.” It was a good decision.

    Sermin* and Aziz* were the couple I’d agreed to live with as an au pair in Turkey. They had three sons: Adem was the oldest. He was six. Yigit was the middle one. He was two and a half. The youngest was eleven months, and was called Berk. I was to be teaching the two oldest English and French until I left to do my Masters at the end of the summer.

    When I first arrived at Sermin and Aziz’s home, I played soccer in the garden with Adem, we ate dinner, and I swam in the pool. I met Katerina, a young woman who helped them with cleaning and childcare. Sermin was warm, a constant barrage of hospitality. Are you hungry? Do you want dessert? Do you want tea? Do you want coffee? Her concern and desire to make sure I was provided for seemed totally natural to her, and I thought “this is going to go really well.”

    In fact, Sermin was enchanting. She was always happy to see me. She was the life of all parties – and she went to a lot of them in those first few days. She felt nurturing, and she explained a lot about Turkish culture. It was validating. It was exciting. I loved it.

    The enchantment didn’t last, because it didn’t take long before I began to see another side of Sermin. I do believe that she was being honestly kind and happy when she was behaving in a kind and happy way. She wasn’t pretentious. Her self-reflection skills, on the other hand, were . . . lacking.

    Lying in my bed the second or third night, I heard Sermin screaming at her oldest as though he had just killed a beloved pet. Not quite sure what to do (is this an okay time to go upstairs? Do they care if I hear them yelling at the children?) I cowered in my bed and hoped that I wouldn’t have to hear that kind of yelling often.

    The next day, the children’s reception towards me was cool. The oldest was more interested in watching television than in talking or playing with me, and the youngest played with me only a little bit. And the yelling continued. And continued and continued. Every single day Sermin spent a good deal of time yelling at the children, especially Adem, for a myriad of offenses. Often she would do this after allowing her children to eat large bowls of ice cream or other sugary treats.

    Adem spent a lot of time crying and acting petulant and uncooperative, especially with me. In fact, he wouldn’t even talk to me. If I sat on the couch with him, without saying a word, he would silently get up and move to a different couch. If I said “good morning,” or “hi,” he wouldn’t respond, though I knew he knew those words. If I tried to get him to do any sort of homework, he would scream and cry as if I had stabbed him. And if he spilled anything, he would yell “Katerina!” and tell her to clean it up instead of doing it himself.

    Retrospect is 20/20, as they say, and if I could go back in time, I would have liked to have reacted differently. As it was, I didn’t know how to react at all, especially when Sermin raised her parenting concerns with me. “When I went to America, the kids were so well-behaved. Turkish kids are never like that. I have a friend who is Turkish but who lives in the United States. She tells me that you can always tell which children are Turkish because they are always yelling. I wonder, why is that?”

    I think I do remember saying something about how in Canadian culture, it’s not really appropriate to yell, so probably kids do it less. (Although, I reassured her, Canadian kids still yell and fight each other. I did, anyway.)

    “How do Canadians parent their kids?”

    I said, “Ummm, they use time-outs a lot.” What was I supposed to say? I don’t have kids and I’m not a parenting expert.

    “Adem has always been like this. I don’t know why. It is so hard to get him to do anything.”

    I said, “hmmm.”

    I was reserving judgement. You can’t decide if the chicken or the egg came first within the first few days of knowing someone. I’ve seen children with behavioral issues that have good parents, where a problem is the result of factors other than poor parenting. I’ve seen children with behavioral issues where the parents are inattentive or abusive. I wasn’t willing to call foul on this situation quite yet.

    A few days later, about a week into my au-pair in Turkey tenure, I went down to the soccer field with Aziz and the children to run around and do fun stuff. Aziz and Adem started playing soccer. I was tasked with making sure that Yigit didn’t get in the way, so I chased him in circles. Eventually Yigit decided he wanted a piece of the soccer action. He ran to kick the ball and got between his brother and Aziz. Adem, ever jealous of his younger brother, walloped him on the head. I pulled Adem away by his arm, and he whacked me as hard as his 6-year-old arms could.

    What happened next will be burned into my retinas for the rest of my life. Aziz, a medical doctor with advanced knowledge of human anatomy, slapped his son in the face, multiple times. Then he hit him on the head, hard enough to potentially cause a concussion.  Adem fell down; Aziz started kicking him in the stomach while he was down. All this time, he was screaming “Say ‘I am sorry!’ Say ‘I am sorry!” at his son. I was yelling “It’s okay, it’s okay, he only hit me once!” but I don’t remember at what point I got over my shock enough to start yelling. Adem was having trouble breathing between sobs. Eventually he managed to get out an “I am s-sorry” before Aziz marched him back home. He ran straight into his mother’s arms, told her the whole story. She said, “Tamam, tamam,” (okay, okay) and Adem cried all evening. I ran to my room to get away from it all.

    In retrospect, I don’t know why I didn’t think about leaving when that happened. It may have been because I wasn’t sure if this was going to be a regular occurrence, or because I hoped that things would get better, or that my presence would act as something of a deterrent to the parents to treat their children badly (noble . . . I know.) But I really don’t know.

    Part of the reason, I think, was that I didn’t have a good idea of how to go about getting things in Turkey. Sure, in the very touristy areas like Istanbul where I’d visited my first time in the country, it was easy. Public transit was easy. Everybody spoke English – at least enough to hit on you and point you in the right direction. But I was in a small town. Nobody spoke English. I didn’t know the neighbours yet. I didn’t have internet access, so I couldn’t look for alternative employment, or even change my ticket and hightail my way back home. I didn’t know if this type of behaviour would be considered appropriate in Turkey. In Canada, I might have stuck around long enough to know if I should call Child and Family Services or not. But I didn’t know the name of the Turkish equivalent. I didn’t know if this was a case they could take, or if this type of behaviour was culturally normative. I only knew one other Turkish person at the time. I did have a Turkish phone number, so I called him. He said, “You never know, it might get better.”

    The other part of the reason – and I don’t know how I feel about this at all – is that it was very confusing for me. Sermin was so warm when I was around. She was warm with everybody except her oldest. It was – and is – impossible to hate her. Active malice wasn’t, and isn’t, her thing. She never really smack talked people. I never heard her complain about her friends behind their backs. But she had a temper to scorch the innermost circle of hell.

    Anyway, I stayed.

    Corporal punishment that could cause potential internal injury was not a routine, and for that I was grateful. There were two other incidents where I heard slapping, but I didn’t go running to the scene of the crime to watch. And there was lots of hair pulling, which I was less shocked by because it carries no risk for internal injury.

    A few weeks before I finally left, Sermin, I, and the two oldest boys were driving to Izmir. Adem got into a snit about something unimportant. Sermin started to yell at him, first in Turkish, then in English. “I hate you! I hate you! I hate you!” Sitting next to her in the passenger seat, I froze. I later realized I should have said something. I wanted to. But I didn’t, and I didn’t later either.

    As I grew to understand more Turkish, I started to understand some of the things Sermin was yelling at her son. I never learned how to say “I hate you,” in Turkish. I did hear her calling him “köpek,” which means “dog.” You can use it as a term of endearment, but when you yell it’s more appropriate for situations of level 11 road rage, not for your own son.

    Another issue I had was that, though Sermin and Aziz ostensibly wanted me to speak English to the children, they did not make an effort to make this an easy job for me. The biggest culprit in this whole sad saga were the televisions. The two big screen TVs in the living room and kitchen were nearly always on, and the children’s eyes were affixed to them as though somebody had taken crazy glue and applied it to their eyeballs and then explained to them that if they closed their eyes – or even so much as moved them – they could run the risk of never being able to watch television again. The television got turned on as soon as the kids woke up, and if I tried to turn it off, I could expect to have to deal with a half hour temper tantrum before the two-and-a-half year old forgot about it and would play with me. That was only if Adem wasn’t around – because he was old enough to understand that it was I who had turned off the TV in the first place. Sermin and Aziz were in the habit of telling Yigit that the TV turned off because of power outages – because, while yelling and screaming abuse at your kid is A-OK, telling them that they can’t always get what they want is an unacceptable parenting technique.

    If Adem were watching television and I turned it off, he would pitch a fit. If I didn’t guard the remote control and the television, he would turn it right back on. As you can imagine, this is not the greatest environment for children to be learning English through osmosis, unless the English they are learning is “No. No. You can’t watch TV. I’ll sit here all day if I have to.”

    The other thing that would happen often is that the kids would tell their parents that they didn’t to spend time with me. For example, Sermin would say, “why don’t you boys go to the park?” Adem would say, “not if Kate comes with us.” Yigit would imitate his older brother. “Yeah, Kate can’t come.” Sermin, instead of explaining that this was not appropriate behaviour, would say, “Tamam, tamam, she won’t come.” Though she would occasionally remind Adem that I wanted him to be happy, capitulating to his and Yigit’s dislike of me was more common. One time, Yigit fell down on the other side of a room I was in. He started screaming and yelling “Kate yaptɪ! Kate yaptɪ!” (Kate did it. Kate did it.) Sermin and Aziz said, “tamam, tamam, she won’t do it again.”

    I understand why you might not think to correct this behaviour with a child is as young as two. However, this kind of reaction was common, and it set a bad precedent that prevented me from doing my job.

    About two weeks before my scheduled departure, I was sitting at breakfast with Sermin, and she said, “Kate, I’ve been thinking. I don’t know what the problem is, but the kids won’t come to you. Everybody else’s kids will, but I don’t understand why mine won’t. I am really sorry about this because you’re my friend, and it’s really not your fault. And I was talking to my husband, and we were thinking that – because you came all this way – it might be better for you to take the last week off and travel because who knows when you’ll be back here?”

    It was an awkward moment. I said I would think about it, because we were both conscious of the fact that I was essentially being asked to voluntarily step down to protect my dignity. And I was conscious of the fact that this decision would most likely involve a pay cut of some kind – but it isn’t like you can accuse people of trying to stiff you before they’ve actually come out and told you as much.

    I thought about it for 24 hours, and then I said, “Sermin, I think it’s a good idea for me to leave early. I would like to go to Greece. But I was just wondering – if I do, are you still planning to pay for half of my plane ticket? That was part of the original agreement.”

    And as I had imagined, Sermin said, “Errrrrr,” like she was about to say something really awkward, and then she said, “Ok, yes we will pay for half the plane ticket, but I was wondering – because you were not able to do much work for us, I was wondering if we could subtract $350 from your last paycheque? I mean, you did travel for two and a half weeks while we went on vacation.”

    And I said, “Uhhhh, ok….” and I thought “Shit! This is the point where you’re supposed to stand up for yourself and tell her that that’s really not ok, and that you shouldn’t be penalized for travelling for that amount of time because you didn’t take weekends or days off for the whole summer. Don’t get me wrong – I was fine with that arrangement – as long as that travel time counted as my weekends. I traveled 17 days in total. Eight weeks of work has 16 days off. So it works out. Right?

    But that’s not what I said. And when she asked me if it was alright again later, I said, “Well, obviously, it’s not ideal, but it’s not like I can really do anything. I mean, I’m used to it. Every time I work in childcare, it’s the same. You can’t count on the money until it’s in your hand.” As reactions go, this is a bit better, but still not as good as, “no, that’s totally inappropriate. It’s your fault that the kids don’t like me, and the fact that you’re doing this to me a week before my scheduled departure means that I will spend as much money in living expenses for my last week here as I would to change my ticket and go back to Canada right this second, so if you wanted to stiff me, you shouldn’t have been such a pansy about it, and you should have done it a month and a half ago.” Anyway, I did get some vindictive satisfaction out of her reaction, because then she said, “Oh, with me it isn’t like that – I don’t cheat people who work for me. It’s just bad luck,” and her face did that thing that people do when they know they’ve done something wrong.

    And then she said, “But I so want you to come back in two years when you finish your Masters. I think my kids will be a lot better when they’re a bit older.”

    It was upsetting for a few hours, but eventually I came to feel happy about finally leaving a bad situation.  I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that it’s probably more upsetting for the people reading this than it is for me. When I decided to au pair in Turkey, I was prepared to have an adventure – to do something a bit crazy and to indulge in a bit of escapism from my structured and plan-oriented existence.  I knew that I could lose money (and was financially prepared to do so – that was the last proper plan I made before I left!) I knew that I was moving to a foreign culture and might witness things that made me uncomfortable as a Canadian – I knew this was to be expected when it comes to foreign travel.

    What I do feel the most conflicted about is why I stayed so long. Why didn’t I leave and tutor English? With the cost of living and demand for English instruction here, I almost certainly could have made it work.

    The day before I left, Sermin told me she was going out, and to please make Adem study and to play with him and Yigit. As she had already turned on the television, I sighed internally, and then turned the thing off as soon as the credits for the latest show started rolling. As per usual, Yigit started to cry. He cried for about ten minutes, before Sermin, who had not yet managed to leave, came into the living room to shake him a bit – because everybody knows that shaking a toddler is a surefire way to make them stop crying. When the shaking didn’t work, she picked him up roughly and put him on the ground to take off his sweaty clothes. He was still crying, so after she’d taken off his undershirt, she started hitting him with it, a bit like she was a 14 year old with a wet towel in the locker room, except that she was a 38 year old woman hitting a defenseless toddler who, through no fault of his own, had become addicted to television.

    As she marched him downstairs to change his clothes, I could see red marks in all the places where she’d hit him.

    She finally left, and I managed to get Adem to finish half of his homework, and told him that we would complete the rest in an hour’s time. During that time, I sat in the kitchen with Katerina and Ayşe. Ayşe came in three times a week to cook. She didn’t speak English, but managed to communicate her kindness and good faith to me anyhow. She had two beautiful teenage daughters who were as gentle as she was. Over the summer, it was Ayşe who made the biggest effort to get me to understand what she was saying in Turkish. Because of her, by the end of the summer I was capable of having real conversations in, albeit broken, Turkish. We talked about how her daughter wants to get a nose ring, about the differences between schooling in Canada and Turkey, about Sermin’s endless diets, and about the status quo of the household.

    That last day, I’d taken away the television remotes so that Adem couldn’t watch television until he’d finished his homework, so when Adem walked into the kitchen with an iPad, I told him he couldn’t have that either. He started to cry, so I told him I would call Sermin to ask her what she thought. Ayşe was kind enough to do the honours, and Sermin said that Adem could use the iPad and didn’t have to do his homework.

    Whatever. It was my last day. Ayşe rolled her eyes, and said, “It’s always the same. Adem, what do you want? Tamam. What do you want? Tamam. What do you want? Tamam. And then he cries and they wonder why he acts that way? When Sermin and Aziz are gone, the two youngest are really good. When they are here, they pitch fits to get what they want. Sermin wants another child, but I told her three is enough.”

    I don’t feel optimistic about the future of Sermin and Aziz’s children. Despite this, having Ayşe ’s solidarity made me feel a bit better. There are people in those kids’ lives that care, and who act like they care. Reading this, I know a lot of you probably feel angry for the kids’ sake – and you should. Some of you probably feel upset for my sake – and you shouldn’t. Life is a mixed bag, and so was my time as in Turkey.  Sure, Sermin is not the best person I have every encountered, and I have nothing good to say about Aziz. But if I hadn’t met them, I wouldn’t have spent the summer in Turkey, I wouldn’t have met the wonderful people I had the privilege to meet, and I might have stayed in the rut I was in the year before had this experience. Though I do have some regrets about my own actions, especially about the fact that I didn’t manage to do anything concrete about the abuse, I feel no regrets about having made the decision to be an au pair in Turkey.

    As soon as I get my first Canadian paycheque, however, I’m going to give a donation to a children’s charity. Not all children get love from their parents, and childcare is an often thankless, low paying, and unstable job. Still, childcare workers are often saddled with the responsibility of being surrogate parent-figures for children who are not well parented or well-loved at home, and their efforts deserve reward. Anybody else with me?