All posts tagged Turkish Culture

  • Chicken Soup for the Lesbian Soul

    This post is about one particular area of culture shock that, no matter how much time I spend in Turkey and with Turkish people, I still find challenging.

    I’m not talking about lesbianism, which I will get to later. I am talking about hospitality culture, and particularly, about when Turkish people buy me stuff. It’s not that I have any problem with people being generous, or with hospitality, or with people being happy that I’m there. All of these things are lovely.

    What I find difficult about Turkish hospitality culture is that its rules are totally different from Canadian hospitality culture. It’s like learning a new language. Moreover, unlike actually learning a language, there are few Turkish culture teachers who have also spent a lot of time immersed in Canadian culture that can instruct me on the finer points of how to feel and behave when people (read, mostly men) offer to buy me stuff or just buy me stuff without allowing me the space to politely refuse. My cultural codes play constant interference in my head, and I always struggle with making the same assumptions about gifts in Turkey that I would make in Canada.

    Oh Canada / my home and native land / your cultural norms / the only ones I understand.

    Oh Canada / my home and native land / your cultural norms / are the ones I understaaaaaaaaand.

    Here’s an example: in Canada, if a man asks you out, there are tacit codes for about how much money he can spend on you before it becomes clear that you are very interested in him romantically. The last time I went on a date in Canada, I think I let him spend $10 on me. This is low, but it was a first date and I was entirely unsure about my own level of interest, so I didn’t want him to get any ideas.

    If, however, I had allowed him to spend $30 or $40 on me, I would practically have been obligated to give him a second date, and if it had been more, he probably would have expected me to sleep with him that night. I would be allowed to refuse, but it would be considered greedy to do something like that and we likely wouldn’t continue seeing each other.

    However, if I were interested but not ready or willing to have a physical relationship, I could keep the amount of money I allowed him to spend low, perhaps pay for the second date, and by the third date have a frank and honest conversation about our mutual expectations going forward.*

    In Turkey, the first time I went out with a guy, I made it very clear beforehand that I wasn’t romantically interested in anything because I was only there for two months, and he told me that he was living temporarily at his parents’ house because he was between jobs. From my perspective, considering the fact that he didn’t have a job, and because I didn’t want him to think that I was romantically interested, we should choose cheap places and both pay our own way, right? Wrong. He paid for everything, including a fair amount of alcohol (which, relative to the Turkish cost of living, is like liquid gold.) I felt quite badly about how much money it was, and I remember him saying to me, as I made noises of protestation, “you’re a guest in Turkey,” and then “it’s basically impossible to say no to things in Turkey.”

    He was right. I have now been in this situation countless times, and I usually can’t say no. Each time, I am very thankful for the generosity but I normally feel a bit guilty as well.

    I also have trouble distinguishing between what is regular “you are a guest” gifts and what are “I like you romantically” gifts. In some ways, it doesn’t matter, because it is difficult to say no either way. Eventually I realized that the only way I can deal with this is to be clear about my expectations, be careful, and accept gifts graciously and thankfully. Then, if somebody turns out to have other intentions, I can politely tell them that I was telling the truth about what I was and wasn’t looking for.

    Easier said than done, however. I still find myself doing things to mitigate how guilty I feel about people buying me things. So, when a Turkish guy invited me out here in Georgia, I suggested we go to a place that I knew wasn’t that expensive so that I would feel better about him paying.

    Unfortunately, when we got there it was temporarily closed. He said, “Hey, I had sushi last night and it was really good. I’d be happy to have it again – do you want to?”

    In Canada sushi is not particularly expensive, so without really thinking about it, I said, “Sure, sushi sounds good.”

    Big mistake. When we got to the sushi place I looked at the menu only to realize that the sushi was approximately three times the price of Canadian sushi. So I said, “Oh, I didn’t realize it would be so expensive.”

    And he said, “Don’t worry, I wouldn’t invite you to an expensive place and expect you to pay.”

    Welp. Here we go again.

    I told him that he could order because I couldn’t even order food that expensive for myself, and he did the honours. The sushi came (it was the best sushi I have ever had) and he started making racist comments. I can’t even write them down because I don’t want to make my Turkish friends who read this blog angry.

    Shit.

    Finally, I said, “You know, I don’t agree with what you’re saying and I would prefer to talk about something else.” We changed the subject, tucked into the sushi, conversed, whatever. I already knew that me and this guy were not going to be friends, so I couldn’t act remotely flirtatious. Just politely friendly.

    Midway through the meal he said, “You know, you have a lesbian soul.”

    I said, “What?”

    He said, “I can tell you’re a lesbian.”

    I said, “I’m not a lesbian.”

    He said, “No, I promise you that you are. I have a lot of lesbian friends, and you act exactly like them.”

    I thought, “When you say “lesbian friends,” do you mean women who don’t find you attractive? Or are they actually lesbians?”

    I said, “well, I’m not a lesbian.”

    He said, “No, seriously, you are definitely a lesbian! If you want, tonight we will go out to the club and I will buy you a prostitute and you can try being with a woman. I guarantee you that if you are just with a woman once you will not want to go back to men.”

    This was preposterous. I made a face as if I were seriously considering it.

    He said, “See, you are not grossed out!”

    I said, “I’m afraid I might have to refuse your offer. I don’t like the idea of paying for sex. Also, I’m not a lesbian.”

    He said, “What’s the problem? You won’t be paying, I will be.”

    Did I feel bad when he paid for 40 American dollars’ worth of sushi for me? No, no I did not. Did I feel obligated to see him again? Also no!

    The ladies in Bend it like Beckham are as confused as I am.

    The ladies in Bend it like Beckham are as confused as I am. Although I am neither a lesbian nor a Pisces.

    On a side note, this is not the first time this has happened to me with Turkish men. The other three times, I politely refused a man’s offer to take me out only to have him ask, “what, are you a lesbian?” as though it were the only possible reason I could possibly refuse to spend time with such a stud.

    I always have to bite back the urge to say, “not usually, but your Mom is special.” In Canada, it would be a mild burn. In Turkey, it might get me beaten up.

    *The amounts differ depending on the relative income brackets of the two people going on a date, and there is a threshold where you cannot safely assume romantic intent, which is usually about the cost of one coffee or beer.

  • Going Viral or How I Try to Give Slippers the Slip

    I have a cold. I’ve had it for a little over a week. No need to be concerned – it’s a small thing, a little throat scratchiness and a bit of fatigue at the end of the day. Nothing major.

    How did I get this cold? A virus, obviously. But not according to everybody I seem to meet. For them, I have this cold because I am cold.

    This is actually an Ebola virus, not a cold. But it looks cool, doesn't it?

    This is actually an Ebola virus, not a cold. But it looks cool, doesn’t it?

    In Canada, I walk around in bare or sock feet all the time. In Turkey and the Caucasus, a mark of a good host is that they will give you slippers upon entering their house. These are often cheap plastic affairs of the wrong size, sometimes with a high heel, and I am more comfortable without them. Usually I accept them out of politeness, take them off at the earliest opportunity, and then forget to put them back on. At some point somebody usually notices.

    Host: Hey, you aren’t wearing any slippers! Did my mother not give you any?

    Me: Oh, ah, uh, yes, slippers. Well, you see, in Canada we don’t actually wear them. Not that much anyway. She did give me some, but I just forgot about them. It’s a small and insignificant cultural difference, but I really prefer not to wear them. No problem.

    Host: But, you are going to get cold.

    Me: No, I swear I’m not cold. I’m perfectly comfortable.

    Host: Yes, you are going to get cold, and then you are going to get a cold.

    Me: No, don’t worry, I won’t. I won’t get a virus from not wearing slippers.

    Host: You don’t get a cold from a virus, you get it from being cold. Here, I’ll go and get you some slippers.

    Me: I guess I’ll just get them myself.

    At the end of this conversation I feel like I am spitting on my hosts’ hospitality by not wanting to wear slippers; believing that their guest is doing something unhealthy in their home and not doing anything about it might make them feel as though they are a bad host or as though it is their fault that I have fallen ill, and I don’t particularly want them to feel that way.

    (Oddly, this concern does not extend to smoking, which has been known to cause far worse chronic and potentially lethal respiratory problems, but hey. Cancer, chemo, cold, chicken soup – they all start with ‘c’ so they can’t be much different.)

    Anyway, I also don’t want to create more work for my hosts by making them chase me around the house with my neglected pair of slippers. So usually I put on the damn slippers and then forget about them again, and then I do the same dance at every place I go to in the hopes that I will eventually be able to get away with my rebellious discalceatism.

    When I finally did get a cold, I had another version of this conversation.

    Host: Didn’t my mother give you slippers? You must have gotten the cold from walking around on the cold floor.

    Me: No, it’s a virus. I’m sure of it. Canada is very cold and we don’t just all have a cold all the time. I’m definitely sure it’s a virus.

    Host: No . . . I’m sure. It’s because you’re cold.

    Me: Okay, fine, I’ll wear the slippers.

    I have given up on convincing people of the scientific impossibility of colds being related to actually being cold.* If the fact that I am from one of the coldest countries in the world, have lived in a city that was regularly -40 in the winter time, waited every day for the bus in said temperatures and did not perpetually have a cold does not convince them, I’m not sure what will.**

    *Obviously I can recognize that being extremely cold and having hypothermia will compromise your immune system and make you more susceptible to catching cold, but inside it is always above 17 degrees.

    **This anecdotal argument is actually a logical fallacy, but it is not only me. All Canadians do not spend from October to April with a cold. I am confident that these results could be backed up with science.

    photo by:
  • The Cult of Ataturk

    The first time I came to Turkey to live, I was living in Izmir. Life in Izmir was a constant barrage of Ataturk paraphernalia. People had decals of his signature on their back windshields, tattoos of it on their arms, and pictures of him everywhere – on the wall, on cell-phone cases, on their transit cards, key-chains, you name it. Reading a book about Ataturk in public got me many approving comments and people would stop walking to comment and show me their tattoos/keychains/cell phone cases, etc.

    Once, while at the beach in Cesme I saw a woman splayed out on the beach, blond hair seductively spread out on her towel. Her bathing-suit area was barely covered by a black bikini. She had Ataturk’s signature tattooed on her pelvic bone, angled towards her vulva like a Freudian exclamation point.

    This is an Izmir transit card. The writing says, "Oh Turkish youth, your first duty is to preserve and defend Turkish independence and the Turkish republic."

    This is an Izmir transit card. The writing says, “Oh Turkish youth, your first duty is to preserve and defend Turkish independence and the Turkish republic.”

    From other people, I heard about a fancy dress display in Izmir where the dress on the right was a big Turkish flag and the dress on the left had a giant decal of Ataturk’s face.

    Ataturk's face on a Turkish government building in Istanbul

    Ataturk’s face and signature on a Turkish government building in Istanbul. Izmir is the epicentre of the Ataturk fan base, but his cult extends into many other parts of Turkey.

    This was just my introduction to the Cult of Ataturk in Turkey. Izmir is the epicentre of this, but Ataturk’s popularity ranges far and wide among people of a few different political stripes. Although these people are predominantly secular or secular-ish, the range of their political beliefs can include everything from hoping for Turkey to become more aligned with European ideals (yea) to virulent Turkish nationalism (and it’s bastard child – hating Kurds and Armenians) (nay).

    “But I don’t know anything about Ataturk!” you say. Here is a crash course, because I am less here to talk about the history of Ataturk as I am to talk about his current legacy in Turkey. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was a military leader who became the first president of Turkey in 1923 after securing military victory against the Allies. He is known for implementing a series of reforms in Turkey. This included changing the writing system of the Turkish language to the Latin alphabet and proposing new ethnically “Turkish” words to replace Arabic or Persian loan-words; secularization of the government and country including banning religious-based attire; and providing civil rights for women.

    Sounds okay, right?

    Ataturk also was a major figure in the Turkish nationalist movement, which gave Turkish people a great common identity but was less beneficial for some other groups living in the former Ottoman Empire, such as Greeks. Much of the “Turkification” of Turkey can be attributed to Ataturk’s efforts, and people who espouse his ideas int he present day are known as “Kemalists.”

    Let’s get back to the matter at hand. When I talk about “The Cult of Ataturk”, I’m not being hyperbolic. As one friend from Izmir explained to me,

    “Back when I was still a believer [in God], every time I imagined God he had Ataturk’s face. And it wasn’t just me. I’ve spoken to other friends about this and they’ve said the same thing.”

    I already believed her, so imagine how unsurprised I was when I had a similar conversation about a month later.

    “We, in Turkey, we need to go back to what it was like under Ataturk – not with any of this Kurdish people playing the victim stuff. When I was a kid, Ataturk was like GOD!

    Ataturk postcards I picked up in North Eastern Turkey

    Ataturk postcards I picked up in North-Eastern Turkey

    A few weeks before this, I had been to the Ataturk mausoleum in Ankara with another Turkish friend. This mausoleum is, no joke, like a Greek temple of the gods, all pillars, statues, polished stone, gardens, and carefully tended grandiosity. We got there late in the afternoon and weren’t able to go into the museum. My friend said, “too bad we couldn’t go into the museum. The last time I was there, and I could see all of Ataturk’s things and his books, I – I really felt something.”

    Ataturk Masoleum

    We got there right at closing time, and soldiers were shooing people out. I snapped this picture as a soldier stared daggers at me for not moving fast enough. Usually, this area is full of throngs of people.

    The other part of the “Cult” part of the “Cult of Ataturk” is most Turkish people’s unwillingness to criticize him or his legacy, even just a little bit. Another friend in Izmir told me,

    “Ataturk is such a huge figure in Turkey, and people treat him like he was beyond reproach. Even my friends are like this. For instance, I think Ataturk was mostly a good guy – but human. He did some good things, but he wasn’t perfect so he did some things that also weren’t that great. But I can’t even say that.”

    Another friend said,

    “Turkey in general is very conservative, but in Izmir there is another kind of conservatism – that is, Kemalism. People just aren’t critical and the devotion to Ataturk prevents people from seriously examining their attitudes.”

    If you don’t believe these people, allow me to show you several screenshots or comments from a blog post that called Ataturk a “benevolent dictator.” To me, this seems fair, as the word “dictator,” applies to anybody who was not democratically elected, no matter how good at governing they are . . . right?

    According to these comments, wrong. Here is one where the person took it rather personally.

    Ataturk Comment 1

    Here is my favourite. Somehow, this ‘anonymous’ manages to hate Racists, Kurds, and Armenians all at the same time! I can only dream of one day reaching such impressive levels of hypocrisy!

    Ataturk Comment 2

    Of course, may of the comments on the site are quite reasonable, and you can read them for yourself. However, most of them are much more reactionary than the post deserves.

    The Problem with the Cult of Ataturk

    It bears saying that I fully support when people are fans of Ataturk because of the good things that he did. Even I think women’s rights and having a secular state are a good thing, and there is no doubt that many of Ataturk’s reforms were beneficial to Turkey in general.

    However, Ataturk is also a powerful symbol of the Turkish Nationalist movement, and I have something of a fraught relationship with the ideology of nationalism in general. At best, nationalist movements can gain rights for people who lack them. At worst, nationalism can create division or violence, particularly when people belonging to two (or more) previously not-so-clearly delineated groups begin to use a particular identity in order to make claims about how another group is a very bad thing, or when one clearly delineated group decides that another clearly delineated group should become exactly like them.

    To add to this, nationalism is difficult to define. In the Turkish case, does being proud of speaking Turkish count? Listening to Sezen Aksu? Eating breakfast for an hour every morning?

    When I write about nationalism in Turkey, I am not simply writing about appreciation for Turkish national culture and language, but rather about cultures of ‘us’ and ‘them,’ specifically regarding Turkish people and Kurdish people. A common attitude that I have observed among Turkish people is this: Traditional non-Turks that toe the line and act like Turks are fine, of course. Kurds, however, are not fine because (and I quote somebody I met) “Turkey has given them so much and then they complain.”

    (Again, it bears repeating before I continue that they are many fabulous wonderful Turkish people who are not like this at all, some of whom read my blog – guys, I don’t mean you!)

    But for those who do think this way, the argument goes like this. Turkey, in its benevolence, gave Kurdish people Turkish passports and the chance to be Turkish (wasn’t that nice of them?) Kurdish people don’t work hard enough and have way too many babies, so they’re poor. If they complain about the fact that they are poor, they are just ungrateful whiners. Some Kurdish people aren’t poor, so that must mean that Kurdish people in general could just be exactly like Turkish people if they would only pull their socks up and behave like proper Turkish people. This includes speaking Turkish, acting Turkish, and calling themselves – you guessed it – Turkish. Also, there are lots of poor Turkish people, which de facto means that things are definitely not worse for Kurds in general in Turkey because if Turkish people can also be poor, discrimination is obviously not a problem.

    What is especially frustrating is that many of the Turkish people I talk to don’t understand that their frustrations with Kurdish nationalism are a result of their own Turkish nationalist ideas. In the words of one friend,

    “I really hate Turkish nationalism.”

    Later,

    “I cannot even believe that Kurdish people want to take their government oaths in Kurdish.”

    If you aren’t a nationalist, why would it matter what language people took their oaths in???

    I am not particularly exaggerating the tone of this discourse. And while I think things get thornier when we talk about the PKK (the Kurdish rebel/terrorist army, depending on who you ask) because they actually engage in combat and I don’t think killing people is ever a good thing, some of the things that people say about Kurdish nationalism seem like non-issues to me. So Kurdish government officials want to take their oaths in Kurdish. If you’re not nationalist, it shouldn’t matter . . . right?

    None of this can actually be said to be Ataturk’s fault, as he’s been dead for nearly 100 years. Ataturk’s legacy, on the other hand, is a major contributor to this as Ataturk advocated for the Turkification of Turkey. And instead of allowing Turkish people to be critical of this “True Turks act Turkish” ideology, the cultish nature of Ataturk’s legacy means that people who express doubts about Ataturk’s ideology or legacy are likely to be lambasted in by similar comments to the ones found in the article I linked to earlier.

    Another problem is that Kemalism positions itself in opposition to strong religious factions in the country. One person said to me, “I don’t love nationalism, but I think it might be the only way to work against the conservative religious factions that are gaining power in Turkey right now.”

    The only way? It was astonishing to me, coming from a country whose national narrative is basically multiculturalism, that he didn’t envision a middle ground.

    Free Speech and the Cult of Ataturk

    “Insulting the Turkish Nation” and insulting Ataturk’s legacy are illegal under the Turkish penal code, punishable by up to three years in prison. YouTube has been banned several times in Turkey, allegedly because some people have insulted Ataturk in the comments. Nobody likes to be insulted, but what is this? Could this post be seen as insulting Ataturk’s legacy? As a Canadian, I am unlikely to be tried in a Turkish court, but could I be denied a visa for writing this kind of thing? I don’t know and I hope not.

    And here we are today!

    Today there are parliamentary elections in Turkey, and I have my fingers crossed into knots that Turkey will elect somebody good to parliament.

    These elections are taking place in order to try and correct a snafu that Turkey has been dealing with since the last parliamentary elections five months ago. During those elections, Erdogan’s party failed to secure a majority, which meant that they couldn’t form the government unless they were supported by another party. Everybody got very excited about the possibility of a coalition, but none of the parties were particularly willing to share the toys in the parliamentary sandbox. Because there was no government, a new series of elections are called.

    My hope is that, instead of people sinking further and further into their respective political corners, pointing fingers and screaming “You’re the bad guy! I’m the good guy!”, making it difficult to come to any sort of meaningful compromise or even form a parliament, Turkish people will elect good leaders today, leaders who will work together for some kind of unity within the country for Turkish, Kurdish, secular, and religious people alike. It’s a high hope, to be sure, but maybe not impossible.

    Polls have closed now, so I’m off to look at the news. Have a good day everybody!

  • Azerbaijani Culture II: Do Azerbaijanis Eat Pork?

    In Turkey, it is common to hear about how similar Azerbaijanis are to Turkish people. Azerbaijanis also talk a lot about these similarities, and many Turks and Azerbaijanis alike consider Turks and Azerbaijanis one ethnic group. “We are like brothers,” I’ve heard many say, “we are both Turkic peoples. We understand each other.”

    It isn’t a preposterous claim. Azerbaijani is generally mutually intelligible with Turkish, although noticeably different. And like Turkey, Azerbaijan is, ostensibly, a predominately Muslim country. Unlike Turkey, however, Azerbaijan spent over 70 years as part of the Soviet Union and, before that, much of the 19th century as part of the Russian Empire. So when I ask, “really? Are they really the same,” people say things like “Yes, but a little more Soviet. Cool people in Azerbaijan, really. But really very much like Turks.”

    The view from my window, a red star hearkening back to Azerbaijan's Soviet past.

    The view from my window, a red star hearkening back to Azerbaijan’s Soviet past. The number underneath the star is 1929.

    Arriving in Azerbaijan having been fed a great deal about all the similarities, I was expecting Azerbaijan to feel very similar to Turkey. This was not the case. Azerbaijan feels more like Turkey’s cousin than its brother. Observing in which ways it reflects Turkish culture and to what extent time spent as part of two different Russian Empires has influenced the way of life gives rise to some curious situations.

    Which brings me to this question: do Azerbaijanis eat pork? In Turkey, I have never seen even the most ardently secular of my friends touch a piece of pig-flesh. Some have told me things like this, “I’m a staunch athiest and I think Islam is a terrible influence on Turkey and the world in general, but I don’t eat pork . . . for cultural reasons.”

    In Turkey, I wouldn’t have a clue where to go to get a piece of pork, and although this food anthropologist says that there is one place to go in Istanbul, it’s pretty clear that it’s an out-of-sight out-of-mind kind of dealio. Basically, even though you can buy pork in a very few places in Turkey, it is pretty hush hush and eating or selling it openly might even qualify as a political statement or demonstration of some kind.

    (And what kind of sick person would even consider eating pork when it could undermine the most munificent sultan of Turkey, Tayyip Erdogan’s, status as the moral conscience of Turkey?)

    ANYWAY, I was surprised during my first walk in Azerbaijan to see this shop. In case the pigs on the sign and the porcine carcasses in the window are not enough of a clue for you, the sign says “Pig Meat” in Azerbaijani.

    Pork Azerbaijan
    I’ll take things you wouldn’t see in Turkey for $100 monsieur Trebek.

    Later that day I arrived at my first Azerbaijani grocery store. Looking around the cold cut section for some sucuk, I was astonished by the variety available. As I stood there, I spied an imam shopping the same section a few metres away from me. He picked up different types of sausage, and put them down. I continued perusing the selection and all of a sudden it dawned on me. Some of these sausages had labels in Cyrillic. They were the same sausages that they sell at the Russian store next to my place in Canada. And I was sure that about half of them were made of . . . duh duh duh . . . swine flesh.

    I looked around to see if I could see what the imam had chosen in the end, fully prepared for the irony of seeing him drop a nice juicy moskovskaya kielbasa in his basket. Unfortunately, he was gone, probably with some halal option after all.

    I started looking at the ingredient labels to confirm my hunch. Turns out that I was right. They sure sell a helluva lot of pork products here in Azerbaijan. After reading a lot of ingredient labels, I can tell you that a bit less than half of the sausage in this picture contains pork, and lots of it was manufactured in Azerbaijan itself.

    IMG_3018

    That evening, I went out with an Azerbaijani fellow. I wanted to know more about the culture of pork products in Azerbaijan. And so I led with a sure-thing kind of question: “Do Azerbaijanis eat pork?”

    He said, “No.”

    Then, “Azerbaijan is a Muslim country.”

    “Oh,” I said, surprised. “I saw a lot of it around so I thought that they might eat it.” I showed him the picture of the pork butcher I’d seen earlier. He seemed as surprised as I had been at his response. “Where did you find this?!”

    “Just…on the road. And I also saw a lot in the grocery store.”

    “Well,” he said, “mostly Azerbaijanis don’t eat pork. Only when they’re not paying attention to ingredient labels maybe.”

    I didn’t push the issue; I only thought “they must not pay attention a lot judging from the amount of pork on the grocery store shelves.”

    I decided to ask somebody else. She said “Well, in our meals we don’t typically eat it, but in sausage we do. Everybody knows that pork makes the best sausage.”

    So there. Do Azerbaijanis eat pork? Yes, yes they do. Unless they don’t want to, I suppose, as there are many halal options available. Unlike in Turkey, it is not particularly stigmatized.

     

  • Turkish Culture: Kurban Bayram (Eid al-Adha) or How to Slaughter a Goat

    *** WARNING. This post contains pictures of a dead goat. ***

    Not being Muslim, I have little awareness of when major Muslim holidays fall, and so I was happily surprised when my friend Oznur in Istanbul invited me to spend “Kurban Bayram” with her family.

    “They’re planning on sacrificing a goat,” she said.

    What a chance! It’s not every day that somebody invites me to a goat sacrifice, so I gratefully accepted. Then I realized I didn’t actually know anything about the holiday, although I assumed it was religious. So I asked Oznur whether the idea of it was to give meat to the poor. She laughed.

    “That might have been the original idea, but mostly these days I think people just put the meat in the freezer.”

    It turns out that Kurban Bayram is the same holiday as Eid al-Adha, which I had heard about before. For the Christians and Jews out there, it is sort of like the Muslim equivalent of Easter or Passover and follows the basic theme of “a lamb is slaughtered in the place of a person.”

    Not Christian or Jewish? Simply confused? Allow me put my bachelors degree in religion to use (for once!) and offer a very simplified explanation.

    Early on in the Bible, God commands a guy named Abraham to slaughter his only son, Isaac. Abraham, being very obedient and devoted to God, begins to obey only to have God tell him that,while he’s actually pretty impressed with his devotion, he doesn’t actually have to slaughter his son. Instead, he can slaughter a ram that has conveniently appeared on scene.

    But wait! There’s more!

    After that, the Israelites become enslaved in Egypt and God tells them that if they slaughter a lamb and paint their door frames with its blood, they will be protected against the Angel of Death. People who do not do this, however, will find their first born son dead in the morning. After that, the Jewish people will be able to up and leave slavery and Egypt because the Egyptians aren’t going to be in any condition to chase them. The Egyptians, apparently, deserve this harsh punishment because of the stubbornness of their Pharaoh vis-à-vis the Israelites. Jewish people still commemorate this holiday as Pesach, or Passover.

    Many years later, Jesus appears on the scene and, after spreading his message, he falls afoul of the authorities and is crucified. Subsequently, his followers lay the foundations for Christian theology, which maintains that Jesus was a. God’s only son (kind of like Isaac) and b. a sacrificial lamb of sorts who volunteered his life to save humankind. Jesus’s crucifixion is celebrated by Christians as Easter.

    One more thing: In the Muslim account, it is not Isaac who Abraham is supposed to slaughter, but Abraham’s other son Ishmael. In the Judeo-Christian account, Ishmael kind of doesn’t count as Abraham’s son because he is his son via Hagar, a slave woman. I have never really understood why it was okay that Abraham accorded Isaac so much more value than Ishmael, but my theological botherations have nothing to do with the topic at hand.

    So while Jews celebrate their version of the holiday be not eating leavening, and Christians by hiding chocolate eggs and waving palm leaves, Muslims, at least in Turkey celebrate it by actually slaughtering an animal.

    Now if you thought that I might think that this is primitive and barbaric, you would be wrong. I understand that if I eat meat (which I do) it has to be slaughtered somehow, and while many a belief system has promoted things that I would consider objectionable, I honestly think a once-a-year goat slaughtrifice is neither here nor there.

    That being said, however, the literalness of the interpretation of the holiday is very different from what I am used to.

    The day before Bayram, we drove to Oznur’s family’s village in Eastern Turkey. On the way, we spied several markets selling sheep and goats for slaughter the next day. We also passed many a goat and/or sheep that had found itself being transported to its death in a variety of (sometimes very funny) ways.

    My favourite was this goat riding in a motorcycle sidecar. His last rites may have been a bit perfunctory, but he sure got a good last ride.

    This is a man. On a motorcycle. With a goat in the sidecar.

    This is a man. On a motorcycle. With a goat in the sidecar. I only wish the picture quality were better.

    That night, as we slept over in the village, the strangled cries of all the animals who would be slaughtered the next day filled the air. I don’t know how they knew they were going to die, but I have never heard a cow make a sound like that before, and I am sure that somehow it knew. This was the most disturbing part of the holiday for me.
    The next morning a few people (not me) took pictures next to the goat, and then the family dug a hole in the ground for the blood to pool, pinned the goat down, and cut its throat.

    This is the goat in question.

    This is the goat in question.

    They continued holding it down until it died about three minutes later. As near as I could tell, the whole thing was about as humane as possible. The goat couldn’t see the knife before it cut him.
    Still, I didn’t take any pictures of the goat during the slaughter.

    After the goat died, he was dragged over to the house to be skinned. To make separating the skin from the rest of the goat easier, they cut a hole in the goat’s leg, inserted a pipe and, I kid you not, blew that goat up like a balloon.

    Seriously! He is blowing it up like a baloon!

    Seriously! He is blowing it up like a balloon!

    With a layer of air between the goat’s skin and its innards, it was time to hoist it up into a tree. This took a bit of effort because goats are heavy.

    Q. How many Turkish people does it take to hoist a goat? A. Three, duh.

    Q. How many Turkish people does it take to hoist a goat?
    A. Three, duh.

    After that, they skinned the goat, removed the organs, and threw the meat into pots to be prepared for lunch. While they were working, they told me that they actually did give a third of the meat to the poor. For some reason, I felt glad and a bit relieved.

    This was the final result.

    Those things that look like ribs in the centre are, in fact, ribs.

    Those things that look like ribs in the centre are, in fact, ribs.

    Thank you very much Oznur, Ozge, and family for the invitation and the hospitable welcome!

  • Turkish Culture II: Ankara is SO BORING

    Ankara is the capital city of Turkey, and if I had one lira for every time a Turkish person has told me that it is a boring hellhole, I could buy a plane ticket from Ankara back to Istanbul. For a long time it was a mystery to me how nearly all Turkish people could feel such unbridled hatred for their capital city, so I decided to go there to learn what none of the fuss was about.

    To be honest, Ankara is a fairly inoffensive city with some nice trees and one huge mausoleum (on which more some other time). But okay. My Turkish friends were right. After admiring the trees and the mausoleum, there’s nothing in particular to do.

    IMG_2665

    In Ankara, there are some trees.

    A friend of mine and I have a pact to send each other postcards from the worst most uninspiring areas of the world that we can find, so as soon as I discovered how right everybody was about Ankara’s things-to-do scene, I went on the postcard hunt. Finding myself in a huge underground bookstore, I soon realized that, not only do Turkish people hate Ankara, they do not even consider it exciting enough to make postcards about.

    That’s bad. Even Ottawa has postcards.

    As luck would have it, I spied a teetering pile of dusty secondhand paperbacks and wondered if I could find some funny covers to rip off and use instead.

    IMG_2693

    On the left, ‘fiery nights.’ On the right, ‘what women want.’

    I was not disappointed. The paperbacks turned out to be Turkish-language Harlequins from the 1990s. Not only did they do their duty as postcards, they confirmed that people in Ankara get up to the same thing as people in boring cities everywhere.

    Suddenly overcome, I wiped a single tear from my eye. From Margaree, Nova Scotia (which, believe it or not, is more boring than Ankara) to Ankara Turkey, one thing transcends the manifold cultures of humankind: where there is nothing to do there is always at least one thing to do.

    But seriously, if you’re planning a trip to Turkey, don’t go to Ankara. I’m not sure if the faint possibility of a fiery night is worth the trouble.

  • Turkish Culture I: Biscolata Boys

    In Canada, when I tell people about my trips to Turkey, I’m frequently bombarded by comments like these:

    “Oh, the boys must be so good-looking there! Like in Spain!”

    “Oh my gosh, I went to Turkey, and the men there – mmmpf. It was hard to come back.”

    “Go on lots of dates. You can’t have too many Mediterranean men in the world!”

    “Sooo….? How was it….?”

    It typically comes as a surprise to Canadian women to learn that, at least in my experience, Turkish women do not gaze at Turkish men in the same lecherous way that we are wont to do. Indeed, the ones I know profess rather disparaging opinions towards the looks of the men around them. In the Turkish female mind, the main marks against Turkish men seem to be that they are short, bald, and jealous. (For the record, this disparaging attitude appears to go both ways, but that is a whole nother post.)

    As near as I can tell, this attitude is unique to Turkish women. Canadian women don’t think like this, and I have it on good authority that Iranian women (who likely have more real exposure to Turkish men than us Canadians) also think the men here are pretty hot stuff. As for me, I can only say that there is a great deal of variance, like anywhere.

    Still, I had to laugh when a friend showed me these commercials for a type of cookie called Biscolata.



    As you can see, the videos is basically a series of hot men from Mediterranean countries outside of Turkey promoting biscolata cookies. The commercials were hugely popular in Turkey, and many a Biscolata cookie has been sold using this the-grass-is-more-delicious-and-chocolatey-when-it-speaks-a-romance-language technique.

    If you don’t believe me already, YouTube has also produced a “Turkish biskolata” parody video, in which a short, balding Turkish man preens himself in a tree. And since parodies are usually funny because they reflect a cultural expectation, I fear it is the unfortunate lot of Turkish men to work extra hard to, uh, sell their cookies on the domestic market.

  • Turkish Language I: Balık etli

    As this is my second time spending a significant amount of time in Turkey, I am learning more and more to what point it is important to understand local languages in order to understand cultures. Sometimes the rapport that certain expressions have with a culture is easy to understand.

    Sometimes, however, I am left scratching my head. What?

    Take, for example, my favourite Turkish term: balık etli. This is an adjective that means, literally, ‘with the meat of a fish,’ but it is actually a euphemism for ‘fat.’ That’s right, a euphemism. While a polite person in Canada may call a fat woman ‘bigger,’ ‘full-figured,’ ‘a bit chubby maybe,’ ‘curvy,’ or ‘thick,’ in Turkish, she is basically ‘like a fish.’

    Really?

    Really?

    To add to this, it is not only an expression that men use to refer to women, but one that women use to refer to themselves. For example, if a woman weighs a few more pounds than she’d like, but isn’t ready to own her fatness, she can say ‘I’m not fat. I’m like a fish!’

    Whatever makes you feel sexy baby!

    To be honest, I cannot really fathom how this could possibly make any woman feel better about her body. The best equivalent in English I can come up with is, “I’ve got a little meat on my bones,” but at least this isn’t linked to one particular animal, especially not one as unattractive as a fish.

    The other thing that I think is really funny about this term is how difficult it is to translate into English. Here’s the thing: this term is polite, it is only used to refer to women, it is not particularly sexualized, it’s a euphemism, it doesn’t mean a very fat body type (google yields pictures of women that I would describe as ‘chubby.’)

    So, ‘chubby’ doesn’t work super well, since it’s not polite enough, unless you qualify it with ‘a bit.’ Fat, of course, is out. ‘Thick’ is too sexualized. ‘Full-figured’ might be too euphemistic and plus-sized is typically used when talking about clothing. ‘Curvy’ is losing its value as a euphemism for fat as women who are curvy (in all sizes) continue to maintain that being curvy involves having a small waist and big bust and/or hips. ‘Plump’ is a word that isn’t used much these days, and if it is used it rarely describes young women. Not to mention than every translation totally loses the fishy connotations!

    Oh well. I don’t know that I’ve learned something very valuable about Turkish culture, but at least when I speak Turkish I don’t have to try to fit this fish-shaped peg into any other kind of hole.

    photo by:
  • “I Don’t Know Why My Kids are Like This!”: My Experience as an Au Pair in Turkey

    When I decided to go work as an au pair in Turkey, I was well aware of the fact that it was a risky decision. Going to a country as culturally different as Turkey is from Canada, working under the table and without a contract, being far away from friends and family, and being dependent on people I’d barely met was enough to make me a little anxious about the trip. But I reasoned with myself. The only thing I had to lose was money. And money is just money, unless you don’t have enough. I did have enough, so I decided to take the risk and go.

    In the end, most of the things I risked happened, and eventually I even quit my job. Actually I “voluntarily stepped down.” It was a good decision.

    Sermin* and Aziz* were the couple I’d agreed to live with as an au pair in Turkey. They had three sons: Adem was the oldest. He was six. Yigit was the middle one. He was two and a half. The youngest was eleven months, and was called Berk. I was to be teaching the two oldest English and French until I left to do my Masters at the end of the summer.

    When I first arrived at Sermin and Aziz’s home, I played soccer in the garden with Adem, we ate dinner, and I swam in the pool. I met Katerina, a young woman who helped them with cleaning and childcare. Sermin was warm, a constant barrage of hospitality. Are you hungry? Do you want dessert? Do you want tea? Do you want coffee? Her concern and desire to make sure I was provided for seemed totally natural to her, and I thought “this is going to go really well.”

    In fact, Sermin was enchanting. She was always happy to see me. She was the life of all parties – and she went to a lot of them in those first few days. She felt nurturing, and she explained a lot about Turkish culture. It was validating. It was exciting. I loved it.

    The enchantment didn’t last, because it didn’t take long before I began to see another side of Sermin. I do believe that she was being honestly kind and happy when she was behaving in a kind and happy way. She wasn’t pretentious. Her self-reflection skills, on the other hand, were . . . lacking.

    Lying in my bed the second or third night, I heard Sermin screaming at her oldest as though he had just killed a beloved pet. Not quite sure what to do (is this an okay time to go upstairs? Do they care if I hear them yelling at the children?) I cowered in my bed and hoped that I wouldn’t have to hear that kind of yelling often.

    The next day, the children’s reception towards me was cool. The oldest was more interested in watching television than in talking or playing with me, and the youngest played with me only a little bit. And the yelling continued. And continued and continued. Every single day Sermin spent a good deal of time yelling at the children, especially Adem, for a myriad of offenses. Often she would do this after allowing her children to eat large bowls of ice cream or other sugary treats.

    Adem spent a lot of time crying and acting petulant and uncooperative, especially with me. In fact, he wouldn’t even talk to me. If I sat on the couch with him, without saying a word, he would silently get up and move to a different couch. If I said “good morning,” or “hi,” he wouldn’t respond, though I knew he knew those words. If I tried to get him to do any sort of homework, he would scream and cry as if I had stabbed him. And if he spilled anything, he would yell “Katerina!” and tell her to clean it up instead of doing it himself.

    Retrospect is 20/20, as they say, and if I could go back in time, I would have liked to have reacted differently. As it was, I didn’t know how to react at all, especially when Sermin raised her parenting concerns with me. “When I went to America, the kids were so well-behaved. Turkish kids are never like that. I have a friend who is Turkish but who lives in the United States. She tells me that you can always tell which children are Turkish because they are always yelling. I wonder, why is that?”

    I think I do remember saying something about how in Canadian culture, it’s not really appropriate to yell, so probably kids do it less. (Although, I reassured her, Canadian kids still yell and fight each other. I did, anyway.)

    “How do Canadians parent their kids?”

    I said, “Ummm, they use time-outs a lot.” What was I supposed to say? I don’t have kids and I’m not a parenting expert.

    “Adem has always been like this. I don’t know why. It is so hard to get him to do anything.”

    I said, “hmmm.”

    I was reserving judgement. You can’t decide if the chicken or the egg came first within the first few days of knowing someone. I’ve seen children with behavioral issues that have good parents, where a problem is the result of factors other than poor parenting. I’ve seen children with behavioral issues where the parents are inattentive or abusive. I wasn’t willing to call foul on this situation quite yet.

    A few days later, about a week into my au-pair in Turkey tenure, I went down to the soccer field with Aziz and the children to run around and do fun stuff. Aziz and Adem started playing soccer. I was tasked with making sure that Yigit didn’t get in the way, so I chased him in circles. Eventually Yigit decided he wanted a piece of the soccer action. He ran to kick the ball and got between his brother and Aziz. Adem, ever jealous of his younger brother, walloped him on the head. I pulled Adem away by his arm, and he whacked me as hard as his 6-year-old arms could.

    What happened next will be burned into my retinas for the rest of my life. Aziz, a medical doctor with advanced knowledge of human anatomy, slapped his son in the face, multiple times. Then he hit him on the head, hard enough to potentially cause a concussion.  Adem fell down; Aziz started kicking him in the stomach while he was down. All this time, he was screaming “Say ‘I am sorry!’ Say ‘I am sorry!” at his son. I was yelling “It’s okay, it’s okay, he only hit me once!” but I don’t remember at what point I got over my shock enough to start yelling. Adem was having trouble breathing between sobs. Eventually he managed to get out an “I am s-sorry” before Aziz marched him back home. He ran straight into his mother’s arms, told her the whole story. She said, “Tamam, tamam,” (okay, okay) and Adem cried all evening. I ran to my room to get away from it all.

    In retrospect, I don’t know why I didn’t think about leaving when that happened. It may have been because I wasn’t sure if this was going to be a regular occurrence, or because I hoped that things would get better, or that my presence would act as something of a deterrent to the parents to treat their children badly (noble . . . I know.) But I really don’t know.

    Part of the reason, I think, was that I didn’t have a good idea of how to go about getting things in Turkey. Sure, in the very touristy areas like Istanbul where I’d visited my first time in the country, it was easy. Public transit was easy. Everybody spoke English – at least enough to hit on you and point you in the right direction. But I was in a small town. Nobody spoke English. I didn’t know the neighbours yet. I didn’t have internet access, so I couldn’t look for alternative employment, or even change my ticket and hightail my way back home. I didn’t know if this type of behaviour would be considered appropriate in Turkey. In Canada, I might have stuck around long enough to know if I should call Child and Family Services or not. But I didn’t know the name of the Turkish equivalent. I didn’t know if this was a case they could take, or if this type of behaviour was culturally normative. I only knew one other Turkish person at the time. I did have a Turkish phone number, so I called him. He said, “You never know, it might get better.”

    The other part of the reason – and I don’t know how I feel about this at all – is that it was very confusing for me. Sermin was so warm when I was around. She was warm with everybody except her oldest. It was – and is – impossible to hate her. Active malice wasn’t, and isn’t, her thing. She never really smack talked people. I never heard her complain about her friends behind their backs. But she had a temper to scorch the innermost circle of hell.

    Anyway, I stayed.

    Corporal punishment that could cause potential internal injury was not a routine, and for that I was grateful. There were two other incidents where I heard slapping, but I didn’t go running to the scene of the crime to watch. And there was lots of hair pulling, which I was less shocked by because it carries no risk for internal injury.

    A few weeks before I finally left, Sermin, I, and the two oldest boys were driving to Izmir. Adem got into a snit about something unimportant. Sermin started to yell at him, first in Turkish, then in English. “I hate you! I hate you! I hate you!” Sitting next to her in the passenger seat, I froze. I later realized I should have said something. I wanted to. But I didn’t, and I didn’t later either.

    As I grew to understand more Turkish, I started to understand some of the things Sermin was yelling at her son. I never learned how to say “I hate you,” in Turkish. I did hear her calling him “köpek,” which means “dog.” You can use it as a term of endearment, but when you yell it’s more appropriate for situations of level 11 road rage, not for your own son.

    Another issue I had was that, though Sermin and Aziz ostensibly wanted me to speak English to the children, they did not make an effort to make this an easy job for me. The biggest culprit in this whole sad saga were the televisions. The two big screen TVs in the living room and kitchen were nearly always on, and the children’s eyes were affixed to them as though somebody had taken crazy glue and applied it to their eyeballs and then explained to them that if they closed their eyes – or even so much as moved them – they could run the risk of never being able to watch television again. The television got turned on as soon as the kids woke up, and if I tried to turn it off, I could expect to have to deal with a half hour temper tantrum before the two-and-a-half year old forgot about it and would play with me. That was only if Adem wasn’t around – because he was old enough to understand that it was I who had turned off the TV in the first place. Sermin and Aziz were in the habit of telling Yigit that the TV turned off because of power outages – because, while yelling and screaming abuse at your kid is A-OK, telling them that they can’t always get what they want is an unacceptable parenting technique.

    If Adem were watching television and I turned it off, he would pitch a fit. If I didn’t guard the remote control and the television, he would turn it right back on. As you can imagine, this is not the greatest environment for children to be learning English through osmosis, unless the English they are learning is “No. No. You can’t watch TV. I’ll sit here all day if I have to.”

    The other thing that would happen often is that the kids would tell their parents that they didn’t to spend time with me. For example, Sermin would say, “why don’t you boys go to the park?” Adem would say, “not if Kate comes with us.” Yigit would imitate his older brother. “Yeah, Kate can’t come.” Sermin, instead of explaining that this was not appropriate behaviour, would say, “Tamam, tamam, she won’t come.” Though she would occasionally remind Adem that I wanted him to be happy, capitulating to his and Yigit’s dislike of me was more common. One time, Yigit fell down on the other side of a room I was in. He started screaming and yelling “Kate yaptɪ! Kate yaptɪ!” (Kate did it. Kate did it.) Sermin and Aziz said, “tamam, tamam, she won’t do it again.”

    I understand why you might not think to correct this behaviour with a child is as young as two. However, this kind of reaction was common, and it set a bad precedent that prevented me from doing my job.

    About two weeks before my scheduled departure, I was sitting at breakfast with Sermin, and she said, “Kate, I’ve been thinking. I don’t know what the problem is, but the kids won’t come to you. Everybody else’s kids will, but I don’t understand why mine won’t. I am really sorry about this because you’re my friend, and it’s really not your fault. And I was talking to my husband, and we were thinking that – because you came all this way – it might be better for you to take the last week off and travel because who knows when you’ll be back here?”

    It was an awkward moment. I said I would think about it, because we were both conscious of the fact that I was essentially being asked to voluntarily step down to protect my dignity. And I was conscious of the fact that this decision would most likely involve a pay cut of some kind – but it isn’t like you can accuse people of trying to stiff you before they’ve actually come out and told you as much.

    I thought about it for 24 hours, and then I said, “Sermin, I think it’s a good idea for me to leave early. I would like to go to Greece. But I was just wondering – if I do, are you still planning to pay for half of my plane ticket? That was part of the original agreement.”

    And as I had imagined, Sermin said, “Errrrrr,” like she was about to say something really awkward, and then she said, “Ok, yes we will pay for half the plane ticket, but I was wondering – because you were not able to do much work for us, I was wondering if we could subtract $350 from your last paycheque? I mean, you did travel for two and a half weeks while we went on vacation.”

    And I said, “Uhhhh, ok….” and I thought “Shit! This is the point where you’re supposed to stand up for yourself and tell her that that’s really not ok, and that you shouldn’t be penalized for travelling for that amount of time because you didn’t take weekends or days off for the whole summer. Don’t get me wrong – I was fine with that arrangement – as long as that travel time counted as my weekends. I traveled 17 days in total. Eight weeks of work has 16 days off. So it works out. Right?

    But that’s not what I said. And when she asked me if it was alright again later, I said, “Well, obviously, it’s not ideal, but it’s not like I can really do anything. I mean, I’m used to it. Every time I work in childcare, it’s the same. You can’t count on the money until it’s in your hand.” As reactions go, this is a bit better, but still not as good as, “no, that’s totally inappropriate. It’s your fault that the kids don’t like me, and the fact that you’re doing this to me a week before my scheduled departure means that I will spend as much money in living expenses for my last week here as I would to change my ticket and go back to Canada right this second, so if you wanted to stiff me, you shouldn’t have been such a pansy about it, and you should have done it a month and a half ago.” Anyway, I did get some vindictive satisfaction out of her reaction, because then she said, “Oh, with me it isn’t like that – I don’t cheat people who work for me. It’s just bad luck,” and her face did that thing that people do when they know they’ve done something wrong.

    And then she said, “But I so want you to come back in two years when you finish your Masters. I think my kids will be a lot better when they’re a bit older.”

    It was upsetting for a few hours, but eventually I came to feel happy about finally leaving a bad situation.  I’m going to go out on a limb here and say that it’s probably more upsetting for the people reading this than it is for me. When I decided to au pair in Turkey, I was prepared to have an adventure – to do something a bit crazy and to indulge in a bit of escapism from my structured and plan-oriented existence.  I knew that I could lose money (and was financially prepared to do so – that was the last proper plan I made before I left!) I knew that I was moving to a foreign culture and might witness things that made me uncomfortable as a Canadian – I knew this was to be expected when it comes to foreign travel.

    What I do feel the most conflicted about is why I stayed so long. Why didn’t I leave and tutor English? With the cost of living and demand for English instruction here, I almost certainly could have made it work.

    The day before I left, Sermin told me she was going out, and to please make Adem study and to play with him and Yigit. As she had already turned on the television, I sighed internally, and then turned the thing off as soon as the credits for the latest show started rolling. As per usual, Yigit started to cry. He cried for about ten minutes, before Sermin, who had not yet managed to leave, came into the living room to shake him a bit – because everybody knows that shaking a toddler is a surefire way to make them stop crying. When the shaking didn’t work, she picked him up roughly and put him on the ground to take off his sweaty clothes. He was still crying, so after she’d taken off his undershirt, she started hitting him with it, a bit like she was a 14 year old with a wet towel in the locker room, except that she was a 38 year old woman hitting a defenseless toddler who, through no fault of his own, had become addicted to television.

    As she marched him downstairs to change his clothes, I could see red marks in all the places where she’d hit him.

    She finally left, and I managed to get Adem to finish half of his homework, and told him that we would complete the rest in an hour’s time. During that time, I sat in the kitchen with Katerina and Ayşe. Ayşe came in three times a week to cook. She didn’t speak English, but managed to communicate her kindness and good faith to me anyhow. She had two beautiful teenage daughters who were as gentle as she was. Over the summer, it was Ayşe who made the biggest effort to get me to understand what she was saying in Turkish. Because of her, by the end of the summer I was capable of having real conversations in, albeit broken, Turkish. We talked about how her daughter wants to get a nose ring, about the differences between schooling in Canada and Turkey, about Sermin’s endless diets, and about the status quo of the household.

    That last day, I’d taken away the television remotes so that Adem couldn’t watch television until he’d finished his homework, so when Adem walked into the kitchen with an iPad, I told him he couldn’t have that either. He started to cry, so I told him I would call Sermin to ask her what she thought. Ayşe was kind enough to do the honours, and Sermin said that Adem could use the iPad and didn’t have to do his homework.

    Whatever. It was my last day. Ayşe rolled her eyes, and said, “It’s always the same. Adem, what do you want? Tamam. What do you want? Tamam. What do you want? Tamam. And then he cries and they wonder why he acts that way? When Sermin and Aziz are gone, the two youngest are really good. When they are here, they pitch fits to get what they want. Sermin wants another child, but I told her three is enough.”

    I don’t feel optimistic about the future of Sermin and Aziz’s children. Despite this, having Ayşe ’s solidarity made me feel a bit better. There are people in those kids’ lives that care, and who act like they care. Reading this, I know a lot of you probably feel angry for the kids’ sake – and you should. Some of you probably feel upset for my sake – and you shouldn’t. Life is a mixed bag, and so was my time as in Turkey.  Sure, Sermin is not the best person I have every encountered, and I have nothing good to say about Aziz. But if I hadn’t met them, I wouldn’t have spent the summer in Turkey, I wouldn’t have met the wonderful people I had the privilege to meet, and I might have stayed in the rut I was in the year before had this experience. Though I do have some regrets about my own actions, especially about the fact that I didn’t manage to do anything concrete about the abuse, I feel no regrets about having made the decision to be an au pair in Turkey.

    As soon as I get my first Canadian paycheque, however, I’m going to give a donation to a children’s charity. Not all children get love from their parents, and childcare is an often thankless, low paying, and unstable job. Still, childcare workers are often saddled with the responsibility of being surrogate parent-figures for children who are not well parented or well-loved at home, and their efforts deserve reward. Anybody else with me?

  • Culture Shock in Turkey II: Turkish Hospitality

    The ubiquitous Turkish tea glassOne of the most central societal values and structures in Turkey is the notion of hospitality. In a society that loves flouting the rules, one unwritten rule cannot be disobeyed: you must treat your guests well. Turkish people consider themselves very hospitable, and even if an Turkish person is less than talented in the art of receiving guests, he or she will still claim hospitality because being inhospitable is culturally shameful.

    I have had the privilege to meet some truly hospitable people in Turkey. One woman in Küçükküyü who fed me dinner and called me “cool” without even knowing me. My friend Tutku, and her family. The many people who have given me directions and told me where to get off transit. My friend Alper is almost comically hospitable. Before we had even met, within the first 30 seconds of our first phone conversation, he said “You’re new in Turkey. Is there anything you need?” Out to dinner, “Are you cold? Do you want me to ask them if they have a blanket?” as well as “Are you sure you’re okay sitting there? You could sit here and see the sea.” I brushed my bangs out of my eyes “I can ask if they have an elastic if you want.?” Leaving my job “You can always stay here.”

    I have always been extremely clear about not being up for sex or a relationship, and he was initially planning to leave the area for a job. Normally I couldn’t help but explain that kind of behaviour through the lens of sex and courtship (is that bad?), but I think he might just be like that.

    Turkish hospitality can get awkward for those of us from, erm, more inhospitable cultures. One reason, of course, is that we are not used to politely accepting gifts. Another reason is that it is hard to gauge what people want from you when they are all claiming hospitality – and in Turkey, many people are genuinely hospitable, while others are acceptably hospitable and others straight-up inhospitable. The common thread between all three groups is that they all made claims about being hospitable. This can get uncomfortable and overwhelming.

    After the fifth cup of tea

    Turkish person: “Do you want tea?”

    Me: “Oh yeah, I’m getting up anyway, so I’ll get it this time.”

    Turkish person: “Nonono. Turkish hospitality.”

    On entering someone’s home or business

    Turkish person: Do you want some tea?

    Me: No thank you, I’m in a hurry.

    Turkish person: I can’t not offer you teaaaaaaa. That would *destroy* my identity as a Turkish person! Turkish hospitality!

    At basically any meal eaten with Turkish people

    Turkish person: Eat more. Do you want this thing? What about this thing? What about this thing?

    Me: No thank you. I’m full.

    Turkish person: You have to eat! You are so skinny! Turkish hospitality!

    Uttered after I unsuccessfully attempted to pay for my drinks

    Turkish person: Refusal is not easy in Turkey. You have to be very firm, or you will end up saying yes to a marriage proposal or something. Gets the cheque.

    Staying over at somebody’s house

    Turkish person: Are you sure you don’t need anything else?

    Me: Yep. I’m sure. Thanks a lot.

    Turkish person: Really, are you sure? Are you sure you don’t want to shower?

    Me: That’s the third time he’s asked me that. Do I smell bad?

    Me: No no, I’m fine. If I want something, I’ll do it or ask you about it. Don’t worry about me.

    Turkish person: Turkish hospitality!

    In some of these cases, they really were being hospitable, and the awkwardness resulted mostly from the fact that I suck at accepting gifts with grace and dignity. On the other hand, sometimes “Turkish hospitality” can be more about the Turkish than about the hospitality. Like in every country, hospitality and manipulation coexist in the same space.

    All that said, it was pleasing to live in a place where hospitality is a strong cultural imperative. For every person that’s doing it wrong, I’ve met a few that are doing it right, and these people have inspired me to hopefully be a bit more hospitable now that I’ve made my retour à Montréal.

    So don’t hesitate. Invite yourself over to my apartment. Don’t even think about getting up to get yourself some tea in my home. Do you want tea? Do you want to take a shower? Do you want tea? Do you want coffee? I’ll bring you some tea. How about a beer? Coffee? How about some tea? Is there anything else you need? Shower? Tea? Of course, you can stay the night. Here’s one more glass of tea. Ok, I’m making you breakfast. Do you want eggs? With sausage? Shower with your eggs? Here’s some tea to tide you over. Yes yes, you can take it in the shower. I’ll have another cup waiting for you when you get out.

    Try not to get uncomfortable. I can’t help it. Turkish hospitality!

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